MarkS30

hey guys, just wondering if something like this has any benefit to the trusty 'ol L24. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HAD1/459.oap?pt=01365&ppt=C0331 my car is just a weekend toy, with occasional trips up the santa monica mountains. i'd like to think an oil cooler like this wouldn't hurt? the engine is mostly stock other than a drop-in k&n on '72 SU's, 6-1 header and 2.5 inch exhaust. stock cam, etc. it doesn't have any overheating problems. thanks for your input, -Mark

today i finally figured out (took me two years) why my car would not rev past 5000rpm. within the past few years i replaced everything ignition related (coil, plugs, plug wires, points, switched to pertronix, new ballast resistor, new distributor), adjusted valves, rebuilt and balanced carbs, new fuel pump, cleared out all fuel lines and checked out for any and all vaccum leaks, replaced everything electrical (60amp alt upgrade, new battery, new interior fusebox) which improved the car drastically but didnt get it past the wall at 5k rpm. finally i found a thread where someone had a similar problem and found their cam gear was off a tooth. so low and behold i take off the valve cover to check that out, and sure enough it was off by one tooth! after fixing that it fired right up and revved all the way out to 6500rpm easy! the tone of the exhaust has changed drastically and now it finally has the familiar L-series tuned straight six wail. before that it sounded kind of flat, and was gutless. that put a big smile on my face. finally, now that its running as well (if not better) than it was brand new, bring on the mods!

today i traded my xxr/sportmax wheels i had previously to more period-correct enkei 92's. and just for kicks, an engine pic. just put back the stock aircleaner setup and noticed no difference from having open velocity stacks.

no need to cross/double post rockaholic.

desmogged, you can set the base timing to 17 degrees BTDC??? i have everything removed on my '72 SU roundtop carbs except the "throttle opener". right now everything on my ignition system is new (coil, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, points, condenser) but im only set at 7 degrees BTDC. can i really raise it that much? :paranoid:

stopped by there earlier today and talked with Mike. he was exactly as 240ZX (Tom) described above. Nice guy, I actually made an appointment for him to look at my car later this week. But, I think I figured out the problem I was having, so I might just not need his help after all. Cool to know that in the Ventura County area we have these good resources though.

ooo, thanks for the heads up Mike, whats the name of the guys shop in Westlake? I can't wait to see the diff mount install, i believe my mount is a little tired as well.

hey whats up! sunwest, a buddy of mine recommended them, he said they're Z-car specialists. I'm gonna swing by there today and check it out.

well, i drove it today with the mechanical pump only and it was fine. but for peace of mind, this afternoon i put the electric pump back on with a few filter. the end, . i appreciate everybodys responses. -Mark

i see a few 1st-gen Z cars around, but not much. anyone on this forum from the ventura county area? anyone have triple sidedrafts i can drool over? -Mark btw, has anyone on here dealt with "sunwest motorsports" in ventura? im considering taking my car there to get fine tuned.

thanks everyone for your advice. tomorrow when i have time, ill take the car out for a long drive. if nothing seems different, i'll leave the electric pump off. but.... the wishy-washy part of me wants to put it back on, even if there is no difference, just for peace of mind that the float bowls are full before i start up the car. it was kind of satisfying getting used to hearing the pump hum for a few seconds, then finally cranking her over when i take her out. i don't know.... my apologies for my rambling.

so far, it seems to start up the same. im guessing on the road there shouldn't be much difference either?

Hi guys, I have a '73 240Z that I recently switched from downdraft dgv webers that the car had to '72 roundtop SU carbs. i installed a new mechanical fuel pump, and also am aware that '73+ Z's had an electric fuel pump sometimes installed near the gas tank. I removed that (electric pump) recently, eventhough it looked fairly new. so currently the car is running on a new mechanical fuel pump only. all other things equal, this should be fine right? im assuming it would be as 70-72 Z's didn't have to run an electric pump. i did a little research here and am assuming the electric pump was only to alleviate some vapor lock issues the flattop SU's had. thanks, -Mark