Mikez73

Waste of time and money IMHO.

I'd go with thermal coating. Functional and looks good. This is mine :

I think my next car will be a 280z or a z31. I'm a non purist and if I buy a 280 it will get an L28et and a standalone engine management. The obvious benefits are that I'll have no emissions testing and I can get rid of most of the cluster**** of wires and hoses. Anyway...like it or not, I'm still lurking

I just used some common rubber bushings of the appropriate size. I believe it was John Coffey who said the main point of using rubber isolators is to protect the aluminum radiator from radiator core support flex which will destroy the radiator.

Thanks Carl

A z31 friend asked me to measure the hatch or the hatch glass of my car. It was a real hectic day all around and I forgot to get the measurements. Now my car is gone so I can't do it. Anybody want to help out?

Good luck and I hope things pick up soon. I have a good working radiator I'd give you if you weren't so far away

Thanks Bob. They used to use that or water back before Seafoam right? At any rate the carbs are not gong back on the car. Since I can't seem to sell the car I'm trying to sell the carbs, motor, tranny, header, gas tanks, etc and install an L28et. EFI + turbo=happiness to me.

Thanks guys but the carbs are off so taking the car out and driving it are out. I don't think it's that serious but that's just my opinion. The motor is strong and when I last drove it I could smoke the tires which seems pretty good for an L24 with 245/50 tires. But when you're trying to sell a motor and the compression test says problem then it is a problem. Thanks

My car hasn't been driven very much since I bought it last November..maybe 6 times total for less than 5 miles each time. It's been driven once in the last six months...about a one mile drive. The previous owner rarely drove it. I did a cold compression test today. I figured this engine had high compression pistons but the piston, cam, and any other specs were known only to the original owner who is unfortunately no longer with us. Well, it has high compression on 4 cylinders . I'm not sure what to make of the results. Too much sitting up or sticky valves or both. Rings? Any thoughts? 1-185 2-200 3-100 4-195 5-185 6-115 I tried 3 and 6 again after a couple squirts of oil. 120 on both.

I don't know anybody else here but with the guys I came up with, turning over means the starter is turning the engine rotating assembly. If the crank ain't turning then it isn't "turning over"

Pick-up coils are cheap and easy to replace. Measure the resistance between the green and red wire. Should be 1 to 2 ohms according to the electrical guru at HZ. I don't think it's bad from what you've written so far. New wires and cap should help a lot if you have visible arcing.

It's going to be a fun car regardless of which engine you use. I'd choose "none of the above" and get a turbo EFI engine. Second would be Bruce Palmer's suggestion. A well built L24 w/ triple Webers is fun too.

Damn...it was only 7pm when I posted so I don't even have an excuse

Is this the same car referenced in the original post???

We've told you how it's supposed to be. Rotate the crank so that the pointer is at 0. Remove the valve cover and make sure the first two cam lobes are pointing up...not necessarily straight up... just up. Now you're at TDC compression stroke. The rotor should be pointed at the #1 terminal on the dizzy now. If it is pointing to #6 then remove the dizzy, disassemble enough that you can turn that part circled in red in the diagram around. Reassemble the dizzy. Install plug wires in correct positions. You should be fine then if everything else is in order. Let me know if you need any tips on disassembling the dizzy to turn that upper shaft around.

I'm sorry...on the dizzy it's 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter clockwise. The cylinders are 1 2 3 4 5 6 from front to back regardless of where you stand

As stated previously...on the dizzy the terminal nearest the radiator is #1. Going clockwise from there its #5-#3-#6-#2-#4 The cylinders in the motor are just as you'd expect: 1-2-3-4-5-6 If you need to reorient the dizzy as in a post stated above, you nedd to disassemble the dizzy and rotate the part circled in red in this diagram:

It's old but still funny. Maybe not as funny as esmit208's post though There does seem to be a lot of old thread revival here.

More gratuitous pics

Looks like I'll be keeping the car. Just didn't get the right offer on the boards and I didn't want to fool with Craigslist. I'm going to try to sell the L24, carbs, header, transmission, and gas tank. Maybe even the perfect dash . I think I'll look around for an L28et and get a fuel cell and Megasquirt. I took some underbody pics. It isn't rust free but it looks pretty good for an unrestored car. I used a wire wheel and a grinder to remove the rust and then used rust proofing. I guess I need to find some high zinc epoxy primer and some kind of undercoating. I need to set off a bug bomb to get rid of all the spiders.

I missed this post somehow. Thanks for the headsup on the Xylene and the dash. It definitely has give and no...I didn't crack it. It's actually not hard at all. I'd guess it was bought NOS to replace the original or it's just been very well cared for. Any speculation on what it's worth? I'm thinking of doing a turbo swap and this dash is expendable if I can buy a cracked dash and put a cap on it and the extra cash could come in handy. L28et's might be cheap but the rest of the necessary stuff isn't

Damn 7 year old threads:D

Yes Chris I have. As I said, the floats are adjusted and functioning. Thanks for the input.

That's basically what I did. Depending on where the rust is and how bad it is a grinder or a wire brush cup on a drill may be faster or more suitable. It's a learning process for me too. Fortunately I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with but it was more than I had originally thought. Sometimes the rust is well hidden There are people here who are much more knowledgeable at body work and rust fighting than I am.