Mikez73

Thanks Travel'n Man, the Weber was easy to miss and I appreciate the answer. Very nice looking car by the way. d240zx2...thanks, that's what I'm thinking. I installed a cheapy Holley FPR but I can't set the fuel pressure until the car is running. The carbs probably could use new gaskets and seals too. Hopefully it doesn't catch fire before I can get the ignition timing and fuel pressure set

The 280zx distributor I bought back in December is apparent defective. I've reinstalled my points distributor until I can get another 280zx distributor. I'm having a little trouble getting it to run again. The car is trying to start but won't quite run. I marked the plates before I removed the dizzy but I'm sure the timing is going to be a little off. I got one small backfire but I'm a little worried about have a bigger one because the (Weber) carbs leak a little bit. My question is really basic. When the float chamber fills up doesn't the float close a valve to shut off fuel to the carb? What I'm getting at is the fuel supply is supposed to be cut off when the chamber is full but I'm getting fuel out of the horns on the rearmost carb. The fuel pressure is almost 8psi, would that be enough to overcome the valve and allow more fuel in?

I was thinking Sumitomo made the OEM wires. NGK wires have been blue for as long as I've been using them.

zbane: That looks good. You really need to buy a drill and wirebrush cup at least

I installed that Holley 12-804 FPR today. Seems like junk. It has no effect on fuel pressure at all.

dclamm: FWIW... http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=22473-N3000 Some parts guys will go out of their way to help you. Or maybe they are just better at their job. A while back I was building a vg30et for my shiro. Nissan was having a problem with rod bearings being shipped loose packed and arriving at dealer parts departments scratched and scored. A local parts guy searched his data base and made some calls and found enough wrapped bearings at other dealerships. Some people are just more helpful than others. BTW, I have a copy of Fast for Nissan and haven't found it very helpful for the s30. Zs-ondabrain: I don't know if this thread will help you but it may: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/

That is beautiful work and I know it took a lot of time and effort.

Then get the part number. On z31.com there is a parts fiche. You look up your part and put the number in at nissanparts.cc and get a great price. Or find the part with courtesynissan's diagrams. Isn't there an s30/130 parts fiche? And I'm not going to buy overpriced parts from a company just because they advertise on the site. I'd rather save money on parts and donate it to the site. I've yet to need anything from MSA that I can't find somewhere else for a better price. That's just my experience (mostly with z31 models) and not to say I don't appreciate MSA for what it is. My 2¢

This.

I'll look at my 240z base and if it's significantly different from the "280zx" base I bought that didn't work, I'll get a pic or two to show a comparison of the three bases I have.

zeus88, I don't have a z31 tranny. I was just trying to help you out with a little more info. Both my z31's were turbo...one had the T5 and the other had a 30A so I don't know much about the 5w71c. If you want to find out more about the z31 5w71c try posting at http://88hybrid.com/ . The guys there are pretty cool and there are a few from GA that may be able to help you out. I'm sure the gears would be taller and the bellhousing would be different.

I'm not sure I understand your question but I recognize the transmission number from years of posting at z31 boards. First generation 300zx non-turbo models used the 5w71c. So did a lot of other Nissan's. I'm sure there are minor differences (gearing) and maybe major differences (bellhousing) between models. Shouldn't be hard to find a replacement case. If you just need rebuild parts here's a good source: http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html And if you want to upload a pic then click on that paperclip thing up above just east of the white smileyface. A window will pop up giving you options to browse your computer for the pic(s) you want to show. Once you choose the pic be sure to click on "attach" or it may be "upload" here at this forum...

I have some pics of the one sold to me that didn't work for me. Right click on the pic and click "view image." Change the last digit of the file number to see more pics. The pics go from 001 to 004.

I think there are at least three different ones. I have my original pedestal, one that was sold to me on another board as a ZX pedestal but wasn't, and the zx pedestal that I subsequently bought. I have a '79 dizzy and the pedestal that works for me is from an '80 model. Make sure you get the plate also.

Damn...I've got a brand new one you could have... if you weren't in Australia. That's clear on the other side of Dallas :classic:

I'm not sure but I think this is a 240z. The ballast resistor shouldn't be hard to find at any rate...just follow the wire down from your coil.

That's true and all in all it seems like a pretty fair deal...from the description. I didn't post it to be snarky it's just that the pics don't match up w/ the description. body a bit rough? interior in good condition? rebuilt engine?

And 2nd gen RX7's. I'm a shade over 6' and my head scraped on both I owned. I've never been uncomfortable in an s30, s130, z31, or z32.

http://prescott.craigslist.org/cto/1626710906.html "Body is a bit rough but straight. Interior is in good condition. I no longer have the time, money, or drive to get this finished.Over $7000 invetsted." Any guesses on where the $7000 is?

Wow...I can relate to this . At least you got yours to run. I can't figure out where I' going wrong. Like you said...it's so simple but...I can't even get spark. If you're happy with points and don't feel any need to go electronic then by all means put the points dizzy back on. I'm not giving up. Yet... What was your reason for wanting electronic ignition?

If your coil is in good working order I'd stick with that. A mild cam is not going to tax a stock coil. If you need to replace the coil an MSD Blaster should be fine and probably cheaper than OEM. If you ever really need a hotter coil I'd suggest a stock z31 coil. It's as good as any coil out there and much better than most.

I got the Holley FPR in today. Geez that thing looks so cheap compared to the Aeromotive FPR I had on my shiro. But then it cost much less less than the Aeromotive. There really isn't a good place to install it.

I don't have any new messages. If you are in the UK I think we'd have a hard time working out a deal. Thanks though.

I went ahead and ordered the Holley from Summit. It was only 5 or 6 bux more than the Spectre. Should be here tomorrow. I'm not sure where I'll mount it. I'd like to redo the line to run in back of the motor but that would mean rearranging the fuel inlets on the carbs. I got the new spacers and o-rings on. I'm hoping I got the thackeray washers right. It's damned near impossible to see the bottom mounts or get a feeler gauge in there. There is definitely gas coming out of one of the horns on the last two carbs. That sounds like info a Weber expert could hear and say "yeah I know what the problem is" I found a shop in the UK that has good rebuild kits w/ gaskets , O rings, filters, needle valves and seals for $30 per carb. It's isn't in the budget right now though.

I checked the box of old parts the PO sent along with the car. He had installed a new pump just before I got the car. I assumed it was a Carter low pressure pump. There is a Carquest E8012S fuel pump box containing the old pump so I'm assuming that the Carquest pump is what he had installed. The specs on that pump are 5-9 psi @ 75-100 LPH. In light of that info I think I'll go ahead and install an FPR and set the pressure at 3psi. I'm going to use a Holley 12-804 1-4psi FPR and add an inline gauge. Sound okay?