Mikez73

Are you seeking information or are you wondering if I set the floats correctly? DCOE40 18 brass floats. 8.5mm at the top of the stroke and 15mm at the bottom. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/317.htm

The rust needs to be removed. After that is done there are several products that can be used to treat the metal and prevent future rust. POR5, zinc based epoxy, Rust Bullet. There are products at your local auto parts store that will work if the proper preparations are made.

I thought I'd already covered that? To answer your question...yes I've had the cover off after running. The level in the bowl is fine. The floats are dead on both at the top of their stroke and the low end. There are two tabs on the float device that contact the needle valve housing. One tab for the lower end of the stroke and one for the upper end. You don't want too much fuel in the bowl but you don't want too little either. You set the floats by manipulating those tabs. Pretty basic.

Yeah that's odd isn't it. I searched for hours on google and read through threads from all kinds of car (and motorcycle) models that use Weber carbs...Porsche, Alfa, Lotus, Jeep, Harley etc etc. Quite a few leak situations but none were quite right. I thought about mounting angle but I can't see how that carb would be much different from the others. The aux venturi was one of my first suspects.. The aux venturi's in that carb are new and they are the set screw type. I modified them to use the springs from my melted aux venturi's so I thought that may have caused the problem. I switched the one from the leaking carb to a non-leaker and nothing changed. I thought about the idle mixture screws too. I installed the new style screws that came with the service kits. But...I used the new style screw in the non leaking carbs too so that's not it either. I'm wondering about the accelerator pump stroke too. Maybe there is still fuel squirting out after the throttle plate closes. I don't have my manual right now but I remember reading about checking the stroke. Not sure how you'd adjust that though. I'm going to go over the illustrations at the Teglerizer site again and trace the fuel flow from the carb filter to the throttle plate and look for any possible leak sources. If I have any luck I'll post up what I find. I'm not feeling really optimistic though.

I suppose that could possibly cause an internal leak but the body isn't cracked. I considered listing that as one of the obvious but already checked and discarded possibilities. BTW the fuel pressure is 3psi so that's another obvious possibility that has been crossed off the list. I'm stumped and apparently everyone else is too

Why not here. I rebuilt my Weber DCOE40 18 carbs. One of them leaks fuel out the horns, mostly the right barrel. All the obvious possibilities have been checked. No, the intake valves aren't sticking. Yes, the floats are adjusted and are functioning. The needle valve is fine. The venturi's are snug and secure. I've asked and searched at HZ and tried google and sent emails to Weber shops and tech forums.

Congrats! Now does somebody want to explin this:

I used an Electramotive tec3r on a 300zx. It's nice to be able to control everything

Hello I've seen slight variations of this question several times on different boards and I'm still a little surprised every time I see it. What would make you happy and who are you trying to please? If you're looking at the car as an investment you're making a mistake. If you got the car for next to nothing and do all the work your self you might make a small profit. At any rate my answer is: it's your car...do what you want to do with it based on what will bring you the most enjoyment. Have some fun.

cheap valve spring compressors=devils handiwork

I don't know how well that will diminish any drone or rasp problems but it will probably do as well as any other round muffler although 20" is not my idea of compact with an s30 exhaust. At any rate there's no point in spending more than you need to: http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=MagnaFlow+10416&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=valsTKnfMIKB8gas4ZigCw&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CC4QrQQwAA I'm not sure about having noise concerns in a performance exhaust though...maybe a 3 chamber muffler would be best I just snapped that you said that you have a down pipe. Do you have an L28et in your 280?

Sorry but no matter. I don't think this site has youtube embed code enabled or I'd just post the vid. I don't want to jack the OP's thread anyway. My point was just that she may have a different idea of what constitutes an acceptable dB level than you or I have. My car isn't illegally or obnoxiously loud but it will get your attention . BTW I don't have a resonator and there is no drone at any rpm.

Maybe she doesn't want it to sound like my car I don't think this site has youtube embed code capability

You should always have air filters. Real air filters too...not those metal grate things. My filters have been off for pics and they are off right now because I still need to sync the carbs but I have the horns blocked off to keep out bugs I'd never run an engine without filters except while syncing the carbs. BTW I have a hoist but no truck .

This or If you were near Houston I'd consider selling my L24 that already has the cam, Webers, ignition, adjustable cam gear, header, and a 2.5" Mandrel bent exhaust :classic:

Under enough force it would probably have some twist. I think that a flex coupler pretty much just dampens vibration. I had planned to use one when I was building the 3" exhaust on my 300zx. My intent was to eliminate stress cracking in the exhaust piping. My 300zx friends (that I trust) told me it was unnecessary. I believe they were correct.

I don't think it's necessary but it isn't going to hurt. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-x-8-Exhaust-Flex-Pipe-Tube-Stainless-Steel-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ200507908762QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I bookmarked and used this page when I did my swap. According to that the ignition modules changed but the body remained the same throughout the 280zx years. I'm sure he meant the NA versions. The turbo distributor is totally different I'm sure you know.

The base in my first post is from a 240z I believe. It was sold to me as a 280zx base. I think there were only 4 different types of distributors made. Obviously both points based dizzy's aren't what you want but the base is likely the same. The 75-78 are probably all the same. Then there are the ones from the 280zx turbo and the 280zx NA which are obviously different. The pic in geezer's post of the two bases compared is from Blue's site I think. It shows a 77 part and an 80 part. I think any 280zx NA base will work. Here are a couple of pics of the base I used on my car. It's from an 83 NA.

You could probably make an adjustment plate pretty easy. It's just a piece of metal plate with a center hole for the dizzy and two slotted holes to mount and adjust. I know a lot of people aren't too comfortable with making parts.

That is actually two parts. I'd suggest you get them both. The part on top is the mount that bolts to the block. The part on bottom is the timing adjustment plate that you'll attach to the new distributor as seen in this pic with the o-ring: I may have an extra mount but not the adjustment plate.

Thanks for looking out for me Adrian but I got it covered I've got 40's. I bought the parts from Pierce. They sent a newer version that uses a set screw. I didn't want to go to the trouble of ordering screws, drilling, etc so I modified the new venturi's to use the springs from my old ones. http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/webers2.htm I hadn't planned to post here anymore but for you...

Carbs are done. Two aux venturis were well done. Pretty easy really. Had some o-rings and a washer/gasket left over but there were no matching parts in my carbs. They may be for the starter circuits or the spindles. Still need to set the floats and spiff the bodies up a bit. Anybody have a couple of aux venturis laying around? http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/webers.htm

Donna Summer Actually Donna Summer and Karen Carpenter are two secret addictions . Booker T, Steve Cropper, Donald Dunn, Al Johnson...maybe Green Onions or Time Is Tight? Just about any oldies...Mitch Ryder & the Detroit Wheels for sure. I love music much more than cars so I have a pretty big collection of mp3's. Got eclectic tastes. Going from as far back as Chopin to as new as Queens of the Stone Age.

Personal preference.