Mikez73

LOLLOLLOL...so if my name was username was ****240z it would show as ****240z? I like a lot of music that would be suitable for driving on the open road. TP Runnin' Down a Dream comes to mind. Anything by the Cars or CCR. Foggy Mountain Breakdown is pretty cool. Copperhead Road. d*** Dale

First snag...there is no "gasket" on the needle valve of the first carb I opened up. I'm going to check the needle valve on one of the other carbs. I'm guessing it's the copper gasket below the pump washers in the top pic. Also the aux venturis in the carb nearest the firewall are a little melty What are those...30 bux each? Ouch...

There is fuel leakage out the front. It also runs very rich but I'm not sure if that's an adjustment problem or a jet size problem. Basically I was hoping someone had done this recently and could remember where the parts went. Also I was hoping someone could verify that I have all the parts in the pic of my carb labeled correctly. The carbs actually function just fine. The idle is ok and acceleration is smooth and responsive. I'll count the turns and make a lot of notes and snap a few pics and hopefully the carbs will still work as well as they do now. If I get the floats set well and get the hang of using a synchrometer...maybe the carbs will work well and I'll eliminate the rich condition. Thanks!

Thanks

This might help but then it might not

What's the highest price anyone has seen a perfect unrestored 240z go for?

It's very nice but it's far from being a purist's type of car.

I've been stalling. I made a post about the parts in the service kit before but the answers were iffy. One problem is the nomenclature or terminology. Parts go by different names with people and even vary from parts list to repair manual. The spring: it's the internal throttle return spring? And two small metal washers...I think they are part# 49 in the diagram but called (pump jet) gaskets instead of o-rings? And finally...there are 7 small o-rings and 2 larger ones. I know there is one for each idle mixture screw and one for each pump jet and two for the throttle spindle. I won't be using those if I have to disassemble the throttle to replace them. I can't find any more o-rings in the parts list or my manual. yetterben said progression port screws. I'm sure I'll find out soon enough. but no harm in asking. Seems like the vendors would label the parts but I guess their take is that if you're using one of their service kits you should already know what the parts are. They may be right but still I know I'm playing with fire here. If nothing else wish me luck

Thanks Dave. Did you have a CL ad?

Hey Dave...how many "I'll be over to pick it up tomorrow"s did you get. Just curious

Obviously I suck at FSM . I usually use Haynes when possible. Glad you found the info. Good luck getting a stock tach to work outside the loop. My tach doesn't work but the original points dizzy was rewired in some strange way that bypassed the ballast resistor and is going to require some rewiring to get the tach back in the loop. Baytown is just down the road but it's a long road My car was a Cali car and has spent it's resting time in various garages. And it still had some rust . It makes me nervous to even wash it :paranoid: I'll keep an eye on this thread to see how you get your tach going. Adrian over at HZ is trying to help me get mine going. A car w/o a tach is just not right. Good luck!

I've never seen a condenser on an electronic ignition. I have a '79 FSM for my dizzy and there's no mention of a condenser. Does the one on your car look like a typical dizzy condenser?

Thanks!

If it fits it isn't too big I think I have the same one in my car.

Dave...if you have the answer you were looking for I'd like to see if anyone who has the v3 relays and bypassed them can tell how they did it. I checked relay A on my car today and it was very hot.

I went ahead and put up ads here and at zcar.com. I'm leery about putting up a craigslist ad because I don't want to fool with a lot of people who aren't really serious or are just looking for a chance to test drive. I'm probably going to be relocating soon and I couldn't take this car with me. My plans aren't set in stone though. If I stay put and keep the car I'd rather have an L28et. I know the Webers would have some value but I'm wondering if there a market for a modified L24 and a 4 speed.

If I knew more about electricity I might be able to answer that The supplement just states that relay A supplies current to relay B and relay B supplies current to the fuel pump.

On my car the wire from the alt/reg to relay A is yellow. If you remember my starter solenoid black/yellow mystery wire...that goes to relay B.

I hate to clutter up this thread but there are two I think. Second pic in this post. Relay A and relay B: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=329611#post329611

Dave I have a '73 model and I swapped in a 280zx alt myself without using your ZXP. I know you aren't looking for a discussion but if there is anything I can do to help let me know. I use a battery terminal on/off switch so I wouldn't notice any battery drain. I do however hear at least one relay clicking on when I switch the battery on.

Looks like a really good car to start with. Good luck.

Somebody here or at HZ has a lime green (grabber green?) s30 with black flares. Looks good.

A 914? Is there a shortage of them in the UK?

Nice score. Go back and get the car. What you need is worth more than he's asking. If I had a spare $150 I'd go get the fiberglass fenders.

That's def an attention getter. Got some bigger pics?