Mikez73

Do NOT use any stop leak products in the cooling system. You'll only make a small problem into a big problem. Check ebay or the online radiator vendors. I didn't know any z cars came with plastic end tanks on the radiators. Must be aftermarket. I have a perfectly good radiator I removed from my car but shipping costs for a radiator makes buying or selling a no-win situation.

A dremel? That is dedication . Took weeks for my hands to get back to normal after working under the cowl I'm not going to say this car is forever rust proof in the areas I've worked on but it should be good until the next generation owner takes over the responsibilities of keeping this car alive. I'd still like to wirebrush and treat the rust along the bottom. Not sure if it's the frame rail but you know the area I'm talking about. I'll post a pic at the end. The control arms and suspension parts really should be removed and gone over. That's what I did on my shiro. I don't think I have the motivation to go through that again at my age I'll keep tabs on your car as long as I'm around. Good luck. Here's that pic.

I did it myself. The meter seems to have settled down now. What I really need is a volt meter.

I have it but it crashes when I try to save clips.

Short and poor quality. Anybody know any good free editing software?

Yes I've got a lot of questions . I did the upgrade. My ammeter has become annoying. I'm sure I need a voltmeter now. Is there any potential for electrical problems there?

Thanks and thanks. In a car like mine I doubt the original dash will add to the value of the car but it's good to have my curiousity dealt with Goo gone is easy to find but I'd love to have some kerosene too. I have a friend who had an 84AE that won many car show. He used kerosene. But judiciously of course.

It wouldn't bother me at all if it's a cap. Just curious because it seemed like a cap would be obvious. Would a pic help? Also...what is good for removing adhesive residue? Stuff looks bad in person and looks like rust in pics and I'd like to remove it. Kerosene?

I don't know whether to offer congratulations or condolences so I'll offer both It is a nice car.

Hmmm...apparently it isn't a cap then. Guess I got lucky

I drove it around to the side and washed it. This is the first time it's been clean since I got it I hope this pic is small enough. I didn't realize until a minute ago you had a 640x480 limit. Sorry :stupid: Here's a link to a page of clean car pics too. http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240zpics2.htm

It's definitely coming from the crankcase. I have no PCV. I have a couple of those little K&N filters in the garage but I'm not sure what the purpose one would serve in that location.

I'm curious about whether I have a dash cap or it's the real dash. How can I tell?

There aren't any good diagrams I see in the FSM but the Haynes manual has the hose going to something called an air pump.

One end is attached to a pipe on left side of the block and the other end is open to atmosphere. It's hard to get a good pic w/ the carb heatshield in the way:

Thanks. I don't want to dwell on that too much because I don't have any reason to suspect that it's off other than his speculation but is there a simple way to check w/o removing the oil pump? With the crank timing mark at 0 degrees and TDC on the compression stroke his is my dizzy turned fully clockwise: The rotor isn't dead solid at the center of the stator point but does it need to be?

Yes I was happy when it finally fired up I still need to set the timing and tape up and loom all the wiring. The car turns off with the key so apparently I got the 280zx alt swap right too. The retired mechanic across the street came over and heard it run. He thinks the dizzy is "off one tooth." I don't really agree with that. I told him the car has an aftermarket "performance" cam and he said "oh that may be what I hear." I dunno. I know the dizzy can't be installed one tooth off or even backwards because of the offset key. Can the oil pump be installed one tooth off? Personally I don't think this is the problem. I think the car hasn't run in awhile, it wasn't warmed up, and the cam has a little lope. The carbs may need to be synced also. Any thought? I have a question on something else too. Whenever I would drive the car before I started the dizzy swap, I occasionally thought I saw just a tiny wisp of smoke from the left front near the headlight. Never could figure out what could be smoking there and since it was so faint and gone in an instant I thought maybe I was just imagining it. When I started the engine today, the hood was up and the smoke was definitely real. I unwrapped the wiring harness there thinking it might be electrical. Everything was good though. Then I noticed a woven hose hanging down...open to atmosphere. That's where the smoke was coming from. It's blowby I guess. I'm not sure where that hose is supposed to go. The mechanic neighbor said the smoke is from the car sitting idle for so long and the rings just need to reseat. He said that after I drive the car awhile the smoke will go away. I'm not sure I believe that either...but I want to I have a couple of pics of the hose if anybody can tell me where the open end goes on an unmodified car. The first pic is the end of the hose...I think it was running down through the splash shield. The second pic is where the hose originates, drivers side of the engine.

That sounds like an excellent price to me. I paid $7 for a can of self etching primer.

I got mine to fire up a couple of times. I think the battery charge was too low to give it the hot spark it needed. I had the battery charged but I think it's on it's last legs. I'm going to try again tomorrow.

I expect a percentage now

Nice car. Why not give him a call and go see it and see how negotiable it is. Pretty hard to find a nice s30 in this area so I wouldn't go too low on the offer .

I had z32 front brakes on my z31. If anyone has used z31 front brakes on an s30 then the next step could possibly be to use the z32 front brakes.

Nice looking car. The engine bay looks to be in good shape. Did you look under the cowling for rust?

Maybe. I know that before I turned the shaft around all I was getting was backfiring through the carbs but at least it was trying to start. We'll see. That cam gear reads "Dial-In-Cams". Ever heard of that? The PO didn't know the specs on the cam or anything really about the engine.

Why yes, I do feel stupid :embarrass: Thanks Carl B! Well... turning the upper shaft around is easy enough. I'd rather do that than change the plug wires around. And check this out: I know what it is because I had a couple for my shiro. I didn't know anybody made them for the L though. I hope it was dialed in well.