Mikez73

I've been to Awesome Z once to pick up a vg30 block. David was working there at the time. He owns a shiro and a 50th AE. Haven't heard from him in a couple of years. Spot may have used her given name, Theresa. I think she was an officer of the club for a while. She was a good friend at one time but I haven't talked to her in many years. She owned a fleet of z31's including a beautiful 86t. Carl...I may not know as much as you think I know and at this point I'm so frustrated I'm not sure what I really know anymore so all advice is welcome. With the rotor in the position it's in in the pic above, I pulled the #1 spark plug. I could see the top of the piston. I assumed that was good. Should I still pull the valve cover and check the lobes? Everything is still as it was in that pic.

No Frank I hadn't thought of Awesome Z. You recommend the shop? Also I'm curious if you are/were a member of the Z club in Houston. I had a couple of z31 friends in the club. Spot and David. You might know them? Only the buckets are fiberglass Carl. I went over the entire body with a small magnet . Was this a pretty common modification? I'm surprised that more than one person did it Looking at the car I wonder if the owner was going for a little bit of a 930 look but 930's had round head lights of course. Can't help you out there jmark. The original owner did all of the modifications on the car. He is deceased. I bought the car from the second owner. He bought the car in 1994/95. But...he really didn't know a lot about the car. As for the ignition problem, Adrian, who posts here as Ahlbin, has been helping me out. I'm not going to go into all the details of the swap but I've got quite a few parts that were defective. I'm on my second dizzy. I confirmed yesterday that the upper shaft on this one was installed backwards. I corrected that and with the engine at TDC and crank timing mark at 0 degrees the rotor points to #1.

I ended up giving the old dizzy away. I would need to buy another points dizzy to revert back to stock. I think the EI will happen. Got to be something simple and obvious I'm overlooking. I have fuel, spark, and compression. I just have to figure out why they aren't playing nice with each other

That pic does make it look like a closer match. S30's usually fetch a pretty good price here. I think you'll get your price or very close to it. It's a beautiful car. Maybe when all this rain moves out. I don't really like my steering wheel or the shift knob. I'd like something that matches the rest of the interior. As soon as I get this thing running I'm going to detail the interior. And give the car a good wash and wax and get some better pics. @Greg: I'm not crazy about the headlights myself but the lights are bright and the buckets are fiberglass The PO sent along hardware that he said was from the original lights. No buckets or lights though. I don't have a price yet. If you came by this weekend with 4500 I'd take it just because I'm tired of fooling with the ignition. It's such a simple system but I can't figure out what's wrong and it's making me feel stupid

I just saw your ad on zcar.com. Very nice car. I hope you get 6500. You should have a look at my interior. We should trade steering wheels...my wheel matches your shift knob and my shift knob matches your wheel :surprised

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure I've seen a 69-70 model in person. I don't like the steel on steel idea much so that might be a good idea for later models too. I've considered putting liquid plastic on the part that the clips grab on to.

No more rust. Cool.

That's the correct disc. The wheel pitch circle diameter is 114.3mm. The hub pitch circle diameter is 103mm

Just curious if anyone has weighed a stock s30 hood. Mine seems incredibly light....25-30lb I'd guess. Now the hatch...that's heavy.

Dave...On the spoiler section I first removed all material back to where there was no rust. About 1/2" around the perimeter of the rusted area. Then I removed the rust down to shiny metal. Then phosphoric acid and rust converter just for sealing. Then zinc primer. Maybe overkill or maybe completely wrong. I'm not a restorer. I reattached the spoiler's right "wing" using metal to plastic/fiberglass/urethane two part epoxy. I had everything perfect and ready for paint but I have very limited space and I accidentally pushed the car where my engine stand was sticking out. Smudged a 3" strip of wet primer :stupid: That is proving to be harder to fix than the wing. On the other areas it was basically the same procedure as the rear. Removed the rust with drill-mounted wire brush and/or sandpaper. Applied rust converter as sealant, then zinc primer. The spoiler and hatch area were pretty easy. Lots of room to work. The radiator support and under the cowl were a lot harder. There are nooks & crannies there where it's hard to get sandpaper and a hand into. I can't guaranty that all the rust there was removed but I'd bet money that there was more blood and skin left behind than rust It isn't perfect but I believe it has less rust than 95% of the 240's out there. Thanks for the compliment and for adding your thoughts. BTW...you lost me with the 10 cent parts and Enrique thing. The guys and gals at LQK usually let me slide on small parts and I know one of the managers there so I get good deals on everything. They just rarely have anything I want. Last time I was there was for Pathy parts.

Just casual conversation advice really. Unless you're volunteering...in which case you could help get that damned electronic ignition going I don't know Carl. As much as possible obviously. I had it for sale at 6500 but then I discovered that crack in the spoiler. I got a lot of interest but I suspect all 240z's do. Except for the head lights a lot of people do like the car more than I do. Enough to buy it? I don't know. I know the purist would not be my market but that's okay. There are a lot of people who like modified cars. The one concern that everyone has is rust or bondo. This car never had much rust and the only rust I haven't eliminated is minor surface rust on the rails which you can see in some of the pics on the pic page.

I know this board is pretty much for purists and most boards frown on this question being asked but...I'm gonna say Dave did it first I'm going to sell my car as soon as I get the electronic ignition sorted out...or revert back to points distributor, whichever comes first My car doesn't really have any secrets...I've kept an online log pretty much since day one. http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240Z.htm

Absolutely. I'd forgotten Dave was selling that car. The car in Arkansas sounds good but if I was looking for a 240z I'd have no problem buying Dave's car. From talking to Dave here I'd trust that everything on that car was done right. I still have the phone number of the driver who brought my car down from Washington if you're interested. He told me that if I ever needed another car transported to call him directly for a better price than the broker offers.

I'll be selling mine soon. If you aren't a purist you might be interested http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240Z.htm

Sure enough that is what I did. Changed the jumper to b/w to w/b and no more blown fuses. The turn signals work now also. Kinda slow though but I haven't driven the car enough to remember if they were always slow. And the indicator lights don't work now. That is new. Maybe the bulbs blew.

No Steve. That would be a good guess but I didn't get around to doing the TS relay mod. I think I wrote down the wrong terminals to jump in the IR alternator swap. I wrote down "jump b/w to b" when it is of course supposed to be b/w to w/b. I'll check that out in a bit. And looking at the 240z wiring...that b/w wire goes directly to...that fuse

Ok I've got power to the coil now. Silly mistake. Still need to figure out the flasher fuse blowing when the ignition switch is turned to "on".

I noticed today that my turn signals no longer work. I checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I replaced the fuse. As soon as I turned the key to "on" the new fuse burned out. In the upgrades I've been working on I haven't touched this circuit but apparently I've screwed it up somehow. The emergency lights still work. Since the fuse burned out when I turned the key on, I think this may have something to do with the car not getting power to the coil wire.

Do you have power at the b/w wire to the coil and the b/w wire to the ballast resistor?

In my efforts to improve my car I've somehow managed to make it worse. Before I removed the electric fuel pump (and maybe before the 280zx alternator) I had finally managed to get spark in my ignition system. Now that I have the mechanical fuel pump in and I'm ready to start it up...I don't have power to the coil anymore.

I don't think I'd trust ebay car sales either unless you've got every possible pitfall covered. CL is a little iffy too but I bought my car through a CL ad so obviously it works well at times. If it was a 280 I'd be interested. I'm thinking I'll sell my 240 and get a 280. I think a 280 is more suitable for me. Congrats on the new grad!

Just to add my 2cents...there is another market out there that aren't looking for numbers matching or "period correct" or unmodified cars. Some of the things that you've done are things that I would be happy to find already done on a 240z. You'd be lucky to find a car in that condition in this area for $4000. What Gary said last is the truest statement: "In the end, a 40 year old car is worth what someone is will to pay." And that pretty much applies to any car. The dents would be the only drawbacks for me. Good luck.

Hey John...hello from Texas.

That looks good conedodger.

You can have it. Just pay shipping. Should fit nicely into a small flat rate USPS priority box.