Mikez73

Yeah I was taught that as one of the basic rules of owning a vehicle...negative off first...on last. I forgot it... once Not a big deal I guess but since the OP specifically mentioned the opposite as if he thought that was the correct way /shrugs

I'm curious why you connected the cables like that...and why you pointed it out. Did someone tell you to put the negative on first?

Well?

I don't like the way the relays are mounted but they are mounted and they work and that's god for now.

Looks great. Don't lose those pics:)

Yes!!! It works. I probably sound a little surprised I was a little wary when I turned the lights on...halfway expecting smoke and the smell of plastic burning. At first the left headlight wasn't working and I figured there was a mistake somewhere. I unplugged the connector and cleaned the blades and tried it again and everything works. Still needs a little neatening up but the lights work and the fans work and there's no smoke so I'll call it a success for now. I didn't have time to take pics but I'll post some tomorrow. Thanks again to Steve, Dave and everyone that helped. I got my grill and airdam back on too but then I had to quit and go cut the grass. Need headlights on the lawnmower:pirate:

Looks like a pretty reasonable price for that car in this area. If that one doesn't work out you might try crazedlist and look at cars in the SW and on the west coast.

No problem Steve but Dave was the inspiration and both of you have been a big help. Group hug:pirate: I've got everything hooked up but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. If I had worked smarter and spent a little more money I'd be done now and I'd be back to the ignition and carbs. The ignition I'm not worried about but I may just be stalling on the carbs :paranoid:

I can't figure out how you do the parking light relays. That looks more complicated than the headlights.

Threadjack...I feel so at home now 70 Cam Guy...if it acts as an obstruction downstream I guess it can be sort of a backpressure FPR . Technically tho I think you're right. I would toss the Spectre and at least go for a Holley 12-804...altho having just returned one of those to Summit, I think it's pretty lame too as far as FPR's go. I guess I got spoiled using Aeromotive with my z31. But hey if you have steady 4psi and enough volume then why mess with a good thing. Dave, if you do tear the carbs down, take pics please There are probably guys here with buckets of brake cylinders lying around but if worse comes to worst I have a friend who has a 72 parts car. I can check to see if it has the brake cylinders. yetterben...thanks for the parts ID. A wideband o2 is great for efi with turbo using a standalone ecu where it would be used on a regular basis. For carbs it would be great to just borrow or rent one. Some of us either don't have the money for it or just can't justify spending $200+ on something you might need to use just once. On the other hand, when I sold my shiro I sold my wideband too and got almost what I paid for it.

I know...I'm just lucky nobody has done that to me yet My intent was good though...no offense intended Stu. I'm holding out for some Sportage seals. My drivers side is ok but the passenger side seal is trashed. My hatch outer seal is just...well I don't even have one.

Looks good

.....

My only experience is with EFI cars which always have a return line and yes the FPR should be on the return line. A good FPR for EFI will always have a return port. How it works (IMHO): Picture a garden hose on at full flow with an open end. The water flows out the end of the hose at whatever pressure water lines have. Now if you cap the end, pressure builds up in the line. Now poke 6 small holes in the hose (those are your injectors). It starts spraying water out of those holes because of the high pressure. Now say it is just spraying WAY too much but, you know if you turn off the water that it wont spray anything thing. If this is the case (as with a fuel pump) the only way to regulate it is to make a small opening in the end of the hose (this is your FPR) to relieve SOME but not all of the pressure. All you do is keep making the hole in the end of the hose larger until the pressure in the hose is regulated to what you want. I guess the same would apply for carbs. I don't have a return line though :disappoin

I think I'll keep it simple Whenever I try to think about electricity everything goes gray and I start getting sleepy . I don't see any 10amp fuses in your harness. Unnecessary?

Showoff :laugh: That looks super sharp. The distribution block is a great idea. I'd guess about $450-$500 invested in that setup?

Does it matter which way I do that? I could run two wires w/ fuses from battery/alt to the relays or just install the fuses after the one wire separates to go to the relays. Also it seems like running ground wires from the two headlight plugs would be better...as in the second poic.

I was thinking of trying a mechanical fuel pump like you said. I'd think the filter would be best moved to the passenger side and leave the gauge where it is. Like so:

Great work Chris. And dimitri_zee...that sounds good.

I'm no pro but I've had good results just using adhesive on the body. I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if I can learn something.

Good point. Curtis has provisions to keep the left and right from going out with the same fuse.

I think I see the answer there That was really interesting info Arne. I'd always thought the change was for aesthetic reasons. I like SEM satin black for trim.

How does this circuit look for headlight relays? I forgot to add a fuse.

If you can find a good l28et for $300 that is definitely the way to go. Offhand I can't think of many differences in the two cars but sourcing the parts might take some time. Offhand list of parts 1. injectors (cheap, easy to find) 2. exhaust manifold (I'd build one and relocate the turbo) 3. oil pan (drill a hole for the return line) 4. intake (I'd use an ic so that's a non issue) 5. pistons (I'd keep the NA pistons) 6. engine management (I'd want Nistune or MS anyway) 7. oil pump (a new oil pump is a good idea anyway) 8. gas tank (for my 240z anyway) 9. fuel pump Bottom line is yes if a complete 280zxt parts car is available it makes things easier. Driving z31's for 10 years will give you a more relaxed view of modifying a car. Power adding aftermarket support for the z31 was pretty much nonexistent :disappoin

Glad you're still alive to see it ...wish I'd left my answer now. Bang for the buck go turbo if you want big power. There was some misinformation in some posts. If you ever decide to go turbo repost...although after 6 years you probably know the errors I'm talking about. I got a chuckle out of the "t3/t4 helps with lag" statement