Mikez73

Definitely. Somebody can use them and you get money. Win/win situation

Um I don't know if you noticed but this thread is ancient. I didn't notice until I'd spent 10 minutes answering some of the misinformation in previous posts :stupid:

If your budget is really tight and there are no Autozone or O'Reillys stores there then rockauto.com would be the place I'd look. The most recent discount code I have is 30910572548889. If you put that in the "how did you hear about us" box you should get 5% off.

Wait..I thought you meant the extra wire on the starter solenoid. Or do you mean both? I need to delete or bypass that relay because as far as I can tell it serves no useful purpose as the car is wired now. And I'm seriously thinking about disconnecting the electric fuel pump and installing a mechanical pump. epsark...I pretty much suck at electrical work but this isn't very complicated. Two jumper wires and solder in a diode and it's done. I didn't know those adapters were still available or I probably would have bought one.

$63? Yeah...that's hard to justify for me too. What I did...installed a 280zx alternator. Had another surprise. There is an extra wire attached to the harness plug. I'm just going to leave it alone and jump the wires per the how-to pages. And unless someone tells me different I'm going to assume that the condenser is unnecessary. I tried a turnbuckle in place of the stock adjusting arm. Couldn't get it aligned right and when I tightened the bolt holding the upper eye, the turnbuckle wouldn't turn. It was dark and bugs were driving me crazy so I didn't give it a lot of focus. I also have the bumper and airdam off, and the radiator out. I'm going to install the aluminum rad that the PO sent w/ the car. Still on the fence about installing electric fans. Seems like too much work for too little return. I liked e-fans on the z31 but mainly because it opens up so much space for intercooler plumbing. There's no space gain here. And unfortunately no need for an ic epsark...your paint job looks great!

Looks great. Where did you get those? I just noticed I don't have any.

Sounds like the day from hell except for the last line.

Yeah basically those parts Chris. The bigger parts should be pretty easy to figure out once I get into the carbs, and I don't want to open up anything I don't need to mess with, so I can avoid doing any damage. Just if anybody has replaced gaskets recently and recognizes them...I don't expect anybody to go through the diagram and try to match parts with part numbers. I was trying to avoid doing that myself and I definitely wouldn't ask anybody else to do it. I was thinking about a mechanical pump. If it works for your 3.1 it should be more than enough for my motor. I haven't been able to get the Holley FPR to have any effect on psi. Even turned all the way, the gauge hits 7-8psi and stays there. It might be good to have an electric pump for cold starts and then have the mechanical pump take over after the motor is running but that could get really complicated.

I trust your word but now I'm sure. It's a copper line BTW I have a Weber manual coming but I wonder if anybody who has used the eurocarbs comprehensive kit can identify some of the smaller parts in this pic. I'm thinking now that the economy kit might have been a better choice. There are two mixture screws that I probably can't use and I had to buy the filter to carb gaskets separately. And I still need base gaskets.

I did that on my first 280zx and my first 300zx. It is a PITA. Here is my current project: getting rid of some minor rust problems. I'll post pics of the results soon...if it turns out well

No, I'm not bored but I'm amazed that those are the top searches on google. I am working on make the z better though. I have the bumper supports, bumper, and spoiler off. I'm getting rid of what I hope is the last of the rust. And patiently waiting for those carb kits

Pop culture has passed me by. And I don't even care Google trends May 7, 2010 1. brian cushing 2. friday night lights 3. friday night lights season 4 premiere 4. bethenny frankel in labor 5. mexico vs ecuador 2010 6. starlin castro 7. donald glover 8. pancho manguera 9. how long is iron man 2 10. inception trailer 11. willie mcgee 12. rojo johnson 13. nelnet 14. cleveland weather 15. funny mothers day poems 16. wkyc 17. babies movie 18. drew mcintyre 19. free ecards for mother s day 20. bruins

For hard nosed racers no doubt Those look like good option Adrian but I've pretty much blown the z budget for this month. And maybe next month. I do want to try that starter relay mod and install an IR alternator. I've got all the parts to do those but first I need to find the other end of that mystery wire on the starter solenoid.

My car is a 2/73 so unless you want pics from me I'll stay out of this.

No, I fixed it...I think. You just need to remove parts 1 through 8 in this diagram and move part #9 around 180 degrees and reassemble and reset the air gap. That's all I did anyway. I have spark now and the rotor points to plug #1 with the crank mark set at 0 degrees. Much appreciate to Adrian for 5 pages of electronic ignition help at HZ In the time I've spent on this conversion I probably could have installed and adjusted 100 sets of points

Hey yourself Adrian :classic: Are we having fun yet?

One of you guys may be able to help me out with the way the fuel line is routed. Where the fuel supply and return lines end on the passenger side, there is a hose connected to a hard line that runs around the front of the radiator core support to the drivers side where another hose is run to a fuel filter and on to the carbs. Is this the way Nissan ran the fuel lines or did the guy who install the Webers run this line? Seems kind of risky in a front end collision.

I must have misunderstood you intent in asking for pics. I thought you wanted pics of the relays you were having trouble getting to get your car going. I'm happy with the current wiring although I might like to have an oil pressure switch in the circuit to prevent the pump running after an accident. I would need a mean to deactivate it for cold starts though.

Yes, this has been a real PITA experience all around. This is the second refurbed dizzy I've tried. The first one didn't work at all. I tried an e1280 module, two HEI modules, and 4 pickup coils before giving up on that dizzy. I was so happy when I installed this one and got spark but I couldn't get the motor to run. Now I see why it wouldn't run. I'm tempted to disassemble it and install the shaft the right way but I think it may be best to just return it and hope the next one works.

Hey...ready when you are.

If you need bigger pics I have the originals.

Looks worse than that :disappoin Maybe when they rebuilt the dizzy they installed the shaft 180 degrees off?

One thing I didn't mention in that other thread is that I hated to mess with the carbs because aside from the leaking they seem to be adjusted very well. Once the motor warmed up it ran great. No hesitation, stumbles or flat spots and the idle was good.

There is no mechanical fuel pump on my car Chris. Matt is cool. Great prices too on ebay. I bought some spacers and thackeray washers from him awhile back. I would have bought the cosworth washers but I didn't know about them at the time. That's a good post. I've been watching that thread. I'll check the PM. I wouldn't mind that much if somebody did buy my car. I'd kinda like to get back to efi and turbochargers.