torker

Dave , Thanks for posting this link. Still working on my sons car. Put a header on it for him and Got 2 1/2 " exhaust installed today:cool: Sounds great except for the "clunk". Found this old thread-yay. Still looking for pics of the rear lower control arms. I think someone flipped a left side arm and installed it on the right if that's possible.

No, they just came from the same loom as the dist. You can see 2 other wires in the pic, they went to the egr. I have it cleaned up and back together I will get a better pic. Also I need to fire up another computer to look at the wiring harness.

It could be a pale green. I am colorblind:) but I can usually still see a pale washed out green in really good light. It is pretty faded and still dirty. The wires come out of the same loom as the dist. Right close to it. There is a factory 2 prong plug/connector and about 2 inches of wire. It appears they were twisted together. I don't have the dist. out yet. I actually got it running but still plan on pulling it.

Color appears to be gray. Can't find a stripe.

Bump, Still trying to figure out what wire this may be. I am thinking possibly a water temp switch, which may alter timing during warmup. It appears the PO had the wires twisted together.

This is not too good a pic. I will take another of the firewall tomorrow.

here is the current coil.

Hi all I am working on my sons 260 again. It had a bad exhaust leak and found they broke a bolt/stud off. Also I found a wire 2 actually-broken near the dist. Not sure what they are.. Also I am going to change the coil-it is leaking. What numbers am I looking for on the dist to make sure I get the right coil..? Plus the adv. mech is kinda tight so it is coming out to be looked over as well. I think I opened a can of worms:) and I haven't even got to the coolant lines,headers, how to tune a Weber or choice of cams=mild btw. I don't want to change springs. Btw I have been searching all morning for some good pics of the intake area also . If you have any post em up. Thanks

Love that car.. Working on my sons 260 now/today... headers/ cam / msa stage II body kit , Black on black.. do it;)

Those are the same carbs that came on my sons car=260z I noticed that after they sit for a couple weeks they seem to dry out and it takes several seconds of cranking the engine over and pumping the gas to get it primed up again. Then it starts great. They are coldblooded but as long as I start it every week it fires right up. I found an online tutorial for tuning them by googling the letters/numbers. I'd put a link but it is on a different computer.

Since the subject has broached elec. dizzy I was wondering. If you put a 280 dizzy do you still run the large resistor? My sons early 260 appears to have an elec. dizzy but still has the big ballast resistor with 3 wires. Something tells me this is not quite right.

So it looks like approx. 2000 cars a month since mine is 8-73 and #1276 Course we don't know what day so that could throw the numbers way off:) Say between 2 and 4 thousand:classic: I got parts in the mail today from Blackdragon:D Moustache bar bushings, swaybar endlinks, intake gasket:D Still waiting on intake stud kit and 5/8" fuel line wheel cyl. brake lines. I am gonna be busy. Plus I am bringing my 60 Chev PU out of mothballs. 3310 carb kit, plugs, wires etc. LOTS of cleaning:cool:

That is awesome. Thanks for the links Carl. Lots of good info with excellent pics.

Clayton, I gotta ask. Is the green car in the gallery with the body kit your car? If so, Very very nice. If this 260 were mine and not my sons THAT IS the engine bay I would strive to build. Also what airdam/bodykit is that? Looks like maybe you hid the front turns behind the grill? Sweet car!!

Ok yea mine , actually my sons car is the early one in the avatar. I was wondering because they keep showing 70-8/74 and 9/74-78 for stuff like airdams. It looks like the 9/74 and newer got the bigger bumpers and the turns in the grill. Which I may go to. My son took off the front bumper/he hates it. So I have been looking at the type II and III air dams that are also a faux bumper. Of course when I do then I'll need the signals in the grill. Can you tell this is my first foray into this type of carLOL

I see:cool: So that is why the "280Z" turn signals in the grill, larger bumpers, but early engine? Do I have that right?

Only thing I can think is they kept making some 240s while they started the 260 line. I am sure someone on here knows for sure. I needed to know because looking at parts they kept showing an early and late version-both for the 260. Confusing. Mine is the early as they made them through 74.

Hi all, Been searching to pin down a manuf. date for my sons 260. I have been to Becks page z-home but all I could find was 240 # and I landed on a 2003 thread with an online registry=most helpful so far. As far as I can tell the car may be 8-73 as 1001 and 1019 are then and it seems to jump pretty fast. Does this sound right? Thanks for any help. Dave ps. The drivers door plate has been painted:stupid: All I do see is the vin and another #8 stamped up near the top. Well, I got brave and took laquer thinner to the plate on the drivers door. wala it is 8-73 I didn't realize they did such a good job on the tags. Very tough stencil. I was able to get all the paint off without hurting the lettering. Now to look for more parts

I am way out of my comfort zone here but I recall Mazda having the rotary as an RX-3 I think as early as 73. A friend had one. I can agree however that both companies seem to have" sold out " in the late seventies/ early eighties. In fact there is really no car that I would really want between 73 and about 85. Save maybe the RX-7 for a couple model years.

If it is a vaporlock problem bypassing the front mechanical pump may help. It picks up a lot of heat from the engine. It would only cost a piece of fuel line and a couple clamps to try. My sons 260 only had the electric hooked up when we got it and it seems to run fine.

You might just try some Lucas gas treatment. Have you tried any additives yet? Also the front mechanical pump may be causing some heat soak problems. You might try bypassing it and just run the rear electric. Are the fuel lines insulated? Do you have an electric fan that you could run on a thermostat or timer so it will run for 5 or 10 min. after you shut it off?

One thing you might check is the plate in the distributor. Make sure when you grab the rotor and twist that it will advance and return freely with no binding. On my sons I just sprayed some wd40 under the plate in the dist. I haven't taken it apart yet to do it right but it did free it up. Also you may be able to bump the timing up a little and see if it helps.