steve91tt

To me, people go with coilovers to allow suspension geometry adjustments and to make room for bigger tires. This is because the stock springs have a greater diameter than the coilovers. In other words, if you think in the future you might want to add significant negative camber or run much wider tires you might consider the coilovers now. If not, then blue is right, you should be able to get where you want to go with a set of lowering springs and shocks. These cars handle very well with this option. I've got a set of adjustable Tokico Illuminas and Eibach springs with low miles on them. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Great information. Thanks for posting.

Installed a spook to my 1971.

The cards are becoming less stacked in my case. I told my wife about it. Since she has no interest in cars without power windows I assumed she would not want to go. As it turns out she would very much like to spend a weekend exploring Texas. We moved here from Canada a few years ago but haven't seen very much of the state. This is an excellent opportunity to do so. All I have to do is find a babysitter. I'd give it a 75% chance that we will be there. Thanks again for organizing this!

I have the msa leather kit. Looks great but the foam is thicker than the original. I sit about 2" higher than I did with the stock foam and the foam does not seem to be compacting with time. With the seat in the lowest position I hit my head going over bumps from time to time.

Very odd. I understand why it's driving you crazy. Can you engage the drive spindle in the pump and then slip the two in the bottom of the timing cover as a unit? That way you know that the system is coupled correctly.

Sounds like a blast! Thanks for organizing this.

Very nice looking parts. Incredible work!

Neither of the headers on my cars coupled with the stock system without some cutting grinding and welding but I guess it depends on who makes the header.

If both the oilpump rod and dizzy are straight and tight then the wobble has to come from the alignment or coupling between the two. As I said in my post above, when this happened to me my dizzy was straight and so was my oil rod but the coupling was machined wrong so the entire thing wobbled like a hula dancer. Mine was so bad that the car was undrivable as the dizzy would "pop" off of the oil rod with any RPM above idle. If it were me I would pull the oil pump rod and confirm that it couples nicely to the dizzy on the bench. I would also check the inside of the timing cover and dizzy mount for any wear that would cause misalignment. If there is no wear now there soon will be with the dizzy moving around.

I like these engines with a header, 2.25" exhaust, turbo muffler and resonator (like my post #5 above). Don't expect a big power increase but the car is quiet on the highway, no drone at any RPM. In fact, if anything, I would say the car is a little too quite with this setup for my taste.

My buddy and I did the same thing earlier this year for a track event in College Station. We did not need the truck in the end but it was a nice insurance policy to know it was there.

It all depends what you are looking for. If you are looking for performance gains then it may be difficult to get much more out of a stock 1972 without making it siginifcantly louder. If you are trying to improve the looks under the hood then a nice coated header adds quite a bit of bling without making things too loud.

Agreed. From what I've read it's important to have a low seat and lots of padding on any part of the cage that can come in contact with human body parts.

Madkaw, I'm 3rd and 4th all the way around the track. My track tires are a smaller circumference than stock. I'm pretty sure that effects the effective gearing. 30 Ounce, The telemetry is from an iPhone app called Harry's Lap Timer. It uses the GPS, camera, compass and accelerometers in the phone. It keeps track of your braking, accelerating and corning g's, speed, lap time, etc. and compares it to the best that you have run. It will output in graphical form or in an excel spreadsheet. Incredible app. Just suction cup your phone to the car, start the app and drive. It does the rest.

Sorry but I'm embarrassed to say I don't know the gear ratio. I know that both cars are running the same diff in posts 5 and 7 above because I actually moved the diff from one car to the other (long story). I'm also pretty sure the diff is a stock R180 from a 1973 240Z as the car it came from only had 60 000 miles on it and it appeared to be bone stock when I got it. I think these cars came with a 3.36 ratio with the 4 speed but I could be wrong.

Both of my cars are running stock diff's. On my local track neither has enough torque to break the back tires loose in the corners. I ran a tighter track earlier this year and I had to feather the gas on track out so as to not to grenade the R180 in a couple of places.

Stock L24, Mikuni 44's, MSA 6in1 header, MSA premium 2.5 exhaust.

Pacesetter headers, 2.5" crush bent to a turbo muffler with a 18" resonator in the middle. 3.0 liter L6 with stock E88 head and SU's.

sounds like a plan. If the timing is right, count me in.

Yep, I used the RX7 pump on both my track car and my 3.0l stroker daily driver with SU's. On the SU car I use a mechanical pump as well but I don't see I really need it. I like these little pumps. $30 on ebay and quiet enough that you can't hear them over the engine. I used a Holley regulator with the Mikuni's (dialed down to 3.5psi) and no regulator for the SU's.

Very cool. I look forward to comparing your AFR numbers to mine. For reference here is a link to my build... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42156-New-240Z-build&highlight=steve91tt

Good point on the AFR's. I suspect you are pretty close to being jetted correctly given the excellent output of your L24. Have you thought about installing a wideband O2 sensor? It's a great tool for tuning carbs and they don't cost nearly as much as they used to (ca. $160). Depending on how much dyno time you have planned the wideband may pay for itself by allowing you to get the jetting right before you hit the rollers. I installed one in my L24 and it made tuning my triple Mikuni's a fairly painless exercise. It also allows you to keep your eye on what the carbs are producing and diagnose any future issues that may come up with your triples. As I said, my track car setup is quite similar to what you are running so I'm very interested to seeing more results from your testing.