steve91tt

Nice work!

I've never tried it from the bell housing end but Scott's the expert so it will likely work. As long as you can get shift rods into an orientation that will allow the end of the shifter linkage to get into the little metal "U"'s in the photos above then you should be good to go. However, upon thinking about it, if you can get the shifter linkage to where it needs to be by simply actuating the rods then I don't understand what stops the linkage from disengaging as you move the shifter to its limits during normal use. When I reset my linkage I had to rotate the tail section to get the linkage and rods to line up. Again, Scott is the expert so there likely something that I am not seeing. Looking forward to hearing what you find out.

Sounds right, the other way to reset the shift fork rods is by removing the plate that you show in the photos above. The ends of the rod move in and out as you switch gears. If I remember correctly there are three positions for two of the rods (1,N,2 and 3,N,4) and 2 positions for the third (N,R). You should be able to change the position of the rods very easily by simply pushing on the end. However, if one of the rods is too far in the "pushed" position then I'm not sure if there will be enough rod end showing to "pull" the fork forward. If this is the case then you may have to take off the tail section to get to the other end of the rod as shown in my photos above.

I'm betting the internal shifter linkage is misaligned with the ends of the shift forks. You can kinda see the part I'm talking about in the following photos I took when I rebuilt my 4-speed b-box earlier this year. There are three little U-shaped parts that attach to the shift forks. The shift linkage moves these forks back and forth to switch the gears. If you don't align the shift linkage correctly into the middle of these three U-shaped bits when you put the tail section on the transmission then the shifter will jam and you can get the symptoms you describe. I had a very similar result when I wrongly installed my tail section. It's an easy fix. Just remove the tail section, realign the shift forks and put the tail section back on. Unfortunately you will have to remove the transmission to do so. If this is you problem, it should be covered by your warranty in my opinion. If you don't want to go through the trouble of shipping it back I'd be happy to give you a hand. I'm just a few miles down the road.

When you cut the floor/console for the new shifter make sure you leave enough room for the movement of the transmission. When I added a 4-speed b-box to my 1971 I cut the hole as small as possible. Unfortunately it would pop out of gear when the stick bumped the trans tunnel as motor/trans shifted on their mounts. I cut the hole 0.5" larger and issue was resolved. You may not have this issue with the after market shifter but you may want to double check.

I need to figure out how to make my car sound more like this one. http://youtu.be/d6bh9RVdOKg The G-force spider hanging from the rearveiw mirror is a nice touch!

Square curbing doesn't sound like much fun and I'm not much of a drag strip guy. Maybe one day I'll be a good enough driver to only use the black bits and still turn in quick, consistent lap times. Still lots to learn about competitive driving. That's the fun part.

If it's paved...drive on it. As long as it doesn't upset the suspension, the fastest way around can involve putting a wheel on the curbing.

Nice looking track video! Here is a lap I recorded going around Houston MSR in a Driver's Edge event earlier this year. I was driving a 1971 240Z with a L30 stoker.

Incredible prices. thanks for posting.

Both my 240Z's leaked everywhere when I bought them but now that I have redone all the seals and gaskets I have no leaks.

Very cool trick! I also get a strong gas smell if I park my car with the hood down. If I let it cool down with the hood up I get no gas fumes. I like the fuel pump idea.

As I understand it venturies are not so much used for tuning as they are used to determine the amount of air the carb can flow. Bigger venturies provide more top end power but can sacrifice drivability if they are too big for the engine.

Congrats! Nice looking race car.

I am running the Arizona Z Wilwood package with a set of 15" Konig Rewind rims without issue. It's a pretty tight fit so I don't think they will work with a 14" rim. They make for a spectacular set of brakes on the track. Strong and fade free. If you go this route be careful which pads you choose for street use. I'm using what AZ calls an intermediate pad which is a Wilwood high performance street pad. I don't care for them on the street as they have to heat up before they stop well. Because the pads never get very hot in street use I don't think my car stops any better than it does with stock brakes on the street. Once they get hot, they can rip your face off so they are great for the track. Pad choice in a big brake system depends on what you want to do with your car. Good luck brake shopping!

I don't think you will have issues with detonation and you will still make lots of power if you control your AFR's and advance curve correctly. I have a L30 with an N42 head and 10.3:1 compression and it runs stong on 93 ocatane pump gas in Houston. Dave Rebello advised me to retard my advance curve until after 4500 rpm and keep my total advance around 31-33. I did this by playing with the springs on my Unilite distributor and the car pulls smooth and hard to redline. Your cam, porting, etc are likely different than mine but as you state above, I wouldn't worry about 10.5:1 CR on that motor if the engine builder says it will work.

Great news! Sounds like you are starting to enjoy the Mikuni goodness.

I repurposed a 240Z seat so my kids and I can be comfortable when we play GT5.

Two ballast resistors? What is to be gained by adding the second resistor to the circuit? I'm hoping you say that it will make the tach more accurate as mine is far from so. Fingers crossed.

My $0.02 for the questions above... 1. The Mallory distributor will work nicely on your L24. 2. An MSD style ignition box will give you stronger spark. In my case, adding an MSD box made the car pull harder at high RPM's but if your stock ignition is in good working order you may see less of a difference than I did. 3. No need for the matching coil. If you go with an MSD box make sure that you pick a coil that can keep up with the increased demands the box will generate. 4. Stock tach should still work with the distributor. If you go with an MSD box you will need an MSD tach adaptor. 5. I have had good luck with my Mallory distributor but as d240zx2 states above it's an expensive way to go. The stock distributor with an MSD box and a Pertronix module is a great alternative for a strong reliable spark.

I have not seen one on a Datsun rear end but I have seen this on the Subaru version of the R180.

Very nice tidy looking wiring job. I like your fuse block. Where did you get it?

These damper are definately a pain in the a$$ to install but they can be made to fit. I am running one on my track car. Just make sure you have no burs on your crank and press them on by cranking down with the bolt. I didn't have much luck with using the stock woodruff key so I'm running without the key. Thus far I have not had any slipping issues.

I'm not an expert but from what I've read, 40mm is a little small for an all out 3.1 stroker but if you stick with a mild cam and max out the choke tubes I suspect it will be a wonderful combination. For reference, I'm running 44's with 34mm chokes on my 3.0 stroker with a big cam/ported heads in a track car. The 34mm chokes cause this combination to be under carbed but it's still a blast to drive. It makes gobs of torque and pulls hard to red line. Unless you do a bunch of head work I don't think the engine you are building will be any more undercarbed than mine. Just my $0.02. If you want a real expert's opinion talk to Todd at Wolfe Creek racing.

I'd have to respectfully disagree. Nikon makes a complete line of lenses and the Sigma lenses also fit the Nikon body. I generally coach people new to photography to get what ever camera body feels best to them as the features of modern SLR's are all good enough for general photography. If you can't decide between Canon and Nikon go Nikon. Nikon cameras are generally more durable, they have a better flash system and if you want to upgrade your equipment in the future the Nikon pro bodies are better than the Canon pro bodies. If you would have asked me 5 years ago I would have said the opposite but in my opinion Nikon leaped ahead of Canon when the D3 was released. Canon has been playing catch up since. Just my $0.02.