steve91tt

The fuel rail looks beautiful but I didn't go with it because I have never liked the way the mounts on the stock fuel rail conduct heat to the fuel. In Texas, on a track, cool fuel is important. I may end up going this way in the end but I will look for other options first. I have a new 3 row aluminum radiator left over from build. I had planned on going with it on the track car but the radiator that's in it holds pressure nicely and looks new inside. I'll stick with it for now.

Thanks for the links. I order the heat shield from Japan this morning. How long did it take to get the heat shield when you ordered it?

I am getting the complete Mikuni setup from Wolf Creek. I have the longer cannon intake on order with a Lokar throttle cable. Do I need shorter studs with the long intake as well? If so where did you source them from? I still have to figure out a routing for the fuel line(s) and come up with some sort of heat shield. I have the fuel pressure regulator temporarily mounted near the stock filter with a couple of 1/4" lines from it to the SU's. Very temporary setup. I need to find a way of safely feeding the triples with cool fuel. For the heat shield I was thinking of fabricating something out of sheet metal and insulation. I guess I'll have to wait to see what the intake looks like.

I've been working hard over the past few weeks on what my kids are now calling "Lightning Mcgreen". I tore out most of the suspension and drive train to make sure everything was up to snuff. Mostly cleaning and painting as well as replacing seals, gaskets and bushings. The only surprises so far have been a bad rear wheel bearing and a cracked harmonic balancer. Overall I am very impressed with how solid this car is. She's not much to look at but she has solid bones. The fuel system was a mess but I PRO15'ed the tank, replaced rubber and flushed metal. All good now. I've got a set of Mikuni triples on order but they won't be here for another two weeks. In the mean time I dropped on a set of SU's to see if the motor would run. Started it up for the first time since 1989 this afternoon. It lives! I was pleasantly surprised at how well it started. I don't even have the choke hooked up and fired right up with strong oil pressure no smoke. These little engines are built like tanks! Still waiting on brake parts so I can't test drive her until next weekend. Can't wait!:classic:

You can wire the relay to any accessory power source. You don't need a switch.

I agree with Arne. It's not the tightness of the gland nuts you have to look for it's whether or not they are bottomed out on the strut tube. You should be able to see a thread or two when tightened. If not the strut may be moving in the tube. This happened to me last year. I had to put a couple of washers at the bottom of the inside of the strut tube to make the clunk stop.

Very nice. What kind of heat shield are you using on those triples?

The 6a does not come with rubber legs but you can get them from Mcmaster Carr. Tucked up behind the washer bottle is about as cool a place as you will get without mounting in the cabin.

I mounted mine in behind the washer bottle under the driver's side inspection door. I don't have a picture but I've mounted it there on two different Z's with great results. You have to look carefully to even see it with the hood up.

Check the dryer. The aftermarket systems generally have a low pressure switch there. If you have power on one side of the switch and not the other (system on) then either a bad switch or low freon.

If you move away from the stock induction to something like triples then the catch can becomes more useful as the PCV system is usually deleted.

What about the corbeau fx1 pro? Looks like it should fit and it's a side mount. Anyone see one of these mounted in a z?

Wow, that's a seriously low seat. I think I need to look for something similar. Thanks for sharing.

That's got me wondering if side mounting the seat is key to get it as low as possible. The Momo and the Cobra above are both side mount. I don't think the Forza is.

I am in the process of building a 1971 240Z that will be used mostly on the track but also see some limited street use. Track use will consist of track days and high performance driving events. No wheel to wheel racing. I have come to the point where I need to make decisions about safety equipment. I have no experience with safety equipment so I'm looking for some advice on seats and roll protection. I'm trying to decide which seat to go with. There are seemingly lots of options but some are much more expensive than others. I am 6'3" and with a helmet my head hits the roof with stock seats so I'm looking to get the seat as close to the floor as possible. I assume this will mean cutting off the stock seat mounts and welding up something a little lower. I am looking at the Cobra Imola... http://www.subesports.com/products/cat/Seating/brand/Cobra/prodID/657 And also the Corbeau Forza... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PIC05/50-4002 They look similar but the Cobra is twice the price. Anyone have any experience with either of these or the advantage of one over the other? I am going to need some sort of roll over protection. From what I understand a helmet is a must in a caged car. Since this car will spend some time on the street I think I need to stick with a roll bar like the MSA SCCA bar. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PIC07/50-1924 I think that MSA gets them from Autopower. Looks like a good option but I was wondering if anyone have any experience with these? Thanks in advance for the advice.

My instructor commented on several occasions that he could not believe how well my car was cornering. You can even hear it on the first video if you listen carefully. Turn in is a little sloppy because I have stock bushings. I'm pretty sure some are 38 years old. However, once I get the car rotated it corners hard and responds very well to small throttle inputs for line adjustment. I can only imagine how well it would corner with a limited slip diffy, more camber and stiff springs. But those things are for the track car that I'm building. The silver one will be returned to stock form. Should have the track car running by July 1st if all goes well.

I spent this past Saturday and Sunday going around Texas World Speedway during the Drivers Edge event. Wonderfully fast track. My little 240Z was very slow compared to the rest of the monsters in my run group. There were at least 3 GTR's and more Z06's than I could count. I could keep with them on the twisties (as you can see above I was ahead of a newer Datsun in the turns) but on the straights I was meat. Here is a lap from my in car camera. I spun out on the second day when a 911 turbo dropped antifreeze on the track. There was a flag at the corner but I didn't spot it. My fault. Here is a video of the spin captured by the car behind me. This should be the last track event for my 73 as my 71 track car build is coming along nicely. Can't wait!

Looking forward to lots of pics and posts on progress. Welcome!

My master is 5/8 and slave is 3/4. From what I am reading I need the bigger master (11/16) to make things better but I can't seem to find one. Anybody know where I can get a bigger master or smaller slave? In the mean time I removed the stops that limit the top and bottom of the peddle travel. Went for a long test drive and I now seem to have a consistently low clutch engage point with no release bearing sound. If it keeps working then good enough for now but I would like to get it fixed long term.

I have been having trouble with the engage point on my clutch. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42242-Inconsistent-engage-point-noisy-clutch I have a theory and wanted to pass it by the experts here for comments. I found that my slave cylinder sometimes does not release entirely. This results in a high engage point and an overworked release bearing. When it is not releasing the clutch folk in held very tightly and the clutch peddle is rigid. If I manually release the pressure on the hydraulic system then the clutch peddle is less rigid, the fork is moveable by hand and the engage point is very close to the floor. I believe that this release of hydraulic pressure also happens randomly on it's own. I think this is why I have a random high and low release point. My theory is that the piston in the master cylinder is not returning to its stop when the peddle is released. I think that this is caused by the fact that I have the rod adjusted almost all the way to the end of the adjustment (long). If I adjust it so its shorter then the clutch won't disengage when pressed to the floor. Could this be caused by some sort of a missmatch between the bore of the slave and the master? I thought that there was only one bore for all cars. No? Is there something else that I am missing. Components: 240mm Center Force clutch Aluminium Fidenza flywheel longer clutch collar Stock Beck Arnley master and slave

I agree, the only thing I can think of is an air leak or an object blockage.

Hmmm. There must be something wrong. My side vents blow as hard or harder than the center vent with the Honda upgrade.

I have had an inconsistent engage point on my clutch since I installed it last fall. Some times it engages right off of the floor and some times half way through the throw of the peddle. It wouldn't bother me so much but lately when it's engaging half way through the peddle I hear a wooshing/grinding noise coming from the clutch area. The sound is also quite inconsistent (ca. 20% of the time). It happens more when the car is in gear and less when in neutral. I have tried rebuilding the master, replacing the master, replacing the slave, replacing the rubber line and this weekend I dropped the transmission to take a look but all appears normal. I am using a 240mm center force II clutch, aluminium flywheel and longer clutch collar. I'm heading up to Texas Motor Speedway for a track weekend in 2 weeks so I need to determine if I should trust the clutch or make other arrangements. Thanks in advance for the help.

I like your method 5thhorsemann. I'm going to give it a try but use the car's electric fuel pump (RX7 pump). Thanks for the feedback guys!

Lots of good progress today cleaning +20 years of dirt off of the car. Good thing I had a helper with small hands.