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I have the dual Webers, and like yours, mine sat for many years. Both of the floats were stuck in the open position, dumping gas in the engine. Check that they aren't dripping. Mine was pouring so much gas that I had to change the oil after fixing the carbs. Hope this helps. -Justin

#1 piston is closest to the radiator.

Very Sharp!

http://www.zbarn.com/

Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging completely.

Just a swag, check the thrust line. Also check the distance between the front and back tire on each side. -Justin

Did the car sit before you purchased it? It's possible the fuel filters have become plugged, not supplying enough gas to the carbs.

Check out: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html You can download the factory manual there.

Just a thought, I had a Mazda that started similar symptoms, all that was needed was a little lubrication to the shift linkage and the shift ball directly under the lever. I was able to clean it with a little WD-40, then followed up with some proper grease. -Justin

I had to air-hammer mine ALL the way out.

Actually when the bypass is stuck shut, it supplies full pressure through the filter and through the entire engine. In my case, it was on my VW beetle and the pressure relief valve was at the last crank bearing. I was told that with the Bug engine, excessive pressure could score the main bearings, due to the way they are drilled through the crank. Like others have said, the Z engines are very durable. Hopefully it's something simple. -Justin Update: I just looked in my 260z manual and there are two oil pressure regulating circuits. 1) At the filter there is a bypass for when the filter is plugged, I believe this also bypasses the filter when the oil is cold. 2) In the oil pump itself, there is a non-adjustable oil pressure regulator valve, this is what is supposed to regulate the oil pressure. In the Engine Lube section, it details the operation of it. Hope this helps - Justin

I had a problem on an engine that leaked. After driving it hard enough, I blew off the oil filter gasket and poured out all my oil. Turns out the oil leak was caused by too much pressure. The oil pressure relief valve was stuck closed, giving much higher oil pressure. After fixing that pressure was normal, and it quit leaking. Just a thought, have you checked your oil pressure with a gauge? --Justin

Just a SWAG, how old is the fuel pump? It may be leaking back to the tank. Also, are there any heat shields missing/damaged? --Justin

My pet peeve too.

http://www.zbarn.com/other%20Web%20stuff/Catalog%20Pages/Z%20used%20body.htm Roger is a great guy to deal with. His parts ARE very good quality. Check out his stuff at the link above.

Just a random thought, did they over fill the oil?

Thanks for the reply Arne. Update: I called Courtesy and NissanParts.cc and both said that the transverse link and the bushing mount brackets are discontinued. The parts are listed on their site but must have recently been discontinued. Anyone with any nos transverse link and lower bushing brackets? - Thanks, Justin

I've looked the world over, OK I only googled for it,:classic: and I am unable to locate a new transverse link. I have de-rusted mine using the electrolytic method, and the removal of rust has revealed some small pin holes and very thin metal along the edges. Also much of the angle brace in the center has rotted away. Question is, what have you all done? I don't trust this critical suspension piece in it's condition. This is for my 74 260z. Thanks, Justin

Just my 2 cents worth. Several years ago, I had the same problem with my 74 beetle. After rebuilding the carb every other year, I switched to using B.P. (Amoco) Ultimate. I haven't had to touch the carb in over 10 years. I don't like using the sta-bil, it seems to cause the bug to run rich, smokes black, until that tank is gone.