Kris.is.awesome

I have a groove cut into the stand itself from using them on my honda. The pinch welds have substantial material for holding the car.

I've been having good luck with the pinch welds. The car is solid and after sitting for weeks everything is still sturdy.

Also posted on Hybrid-Z. Stay tuned!

Awesome, stay tuned!

They're still being developed- but much sooner than you'd think. I'd estimate the first group buy to be ready anywhere from a month or so up to three or four. It depends on the interest and support.

Ahh, yes! I'm working with Fortune Auto (A 'local' up and coming performance coil-over company) to create a new, affordable, top-quality suspension option for the S30. Fortune Auto coilovers can be found on everything from 'VIP' style cars, to all-out race-winning time-attack cars. Their product has been featured in Import Tuner, and Super Street magazine. Fortune Auto is offering these at a price of $1075, with a 2-3 week wait period- provided there are 10 committed buyers. Of course, these are still not complete- and I'm still working out all the details. All coilovers incorporate a 50mm piston, 30 way damping, fully anodized body, custom rates & a 1 year warranty. This rigorous testing has earned us our ISO certification. Furthermore we incorporate features only found on our coilovers such as Seamless stainless steel monotubes, Forged lower mounts & proprietary nitrogen gas chambers. Features: * Dyno tested*** * Stainless steel body / piston * 30-way adjustable dampers * Pillowball mounts * Forged aluminum locking collars * Dust boots on all pistons * 50mm piston (beyond the industry standard of 44-47mm) * Anodized aluminum camber plates** on front upper-mounts * Fully anodized body * 1 year Manufacturer's Warranty * Height adjustment independent of preload * ISO 9002 certification Every Fortune Auto coilover is extensively dyno tested and matched with in specifications to insure a consistent and uniform set of coilovers. This rigorous testing has earned us our ISO certification. Please, if you have ANY questions, don't hesitate to post, or PM. I will answer as best I can!

I was thinking the same- but one of the wires coming out of it is badly frayed- and needs to be re-connected. I may try some surgery

Pretty much, I think there may be a stripe or two difference, but almost down to the dot.

Better to be safe than sorry! Thanks!

Allright, so I was digging through my bags of parts I got with my car- and I came across this. I believe it's a replacement VR- maybe you guys can help. It has the same plug, and bolts right up where the other one does. So whatcha think? Is there a way to test it? Original on left- new part on right.

Haha, wow the memories. I believe it was called a Digi-Q. Good find!

I PM'd you. Depending on where you are in the area, I know someone that does awesome alarm work. He did a remote pager system for another buddy of mine and it's awesome.

Okay, cranked her over this morning. Battery in the car is toast so I've been 'jumping' it from my running car. After just a little bit of cranking it hiccuped. It's just keep barely firing- but I found after measuring the voltage going into the coil was dead when in the 'run' position. Apparently my harness does not keep the coil hot while in the 'run' position. For testing's sake- I should be safe making a jumper from the batt+ to the coil? Also- which wire on the alt would be the excitor?

Then will tapping into the ignition wires and running it that way work?

I ask because of the diagram The resistor doesn't even connect to the coil directly. It's only connected through the tach? Any other "absolutely nots" haha

Again, something I figured out just before you posted Got the ignition all sorted out today, thanks! Hopefully tomorrow I'll wire up the coil and the starter and crank this thing! Now- the resistor thats mounted right under the coil that bridges the two ignition wires- can't that just be placed under the dash- tapped into those two wires?

Hellooooo parts car!

Is there a photo or diagram available showing just the ignition? I'm ready to start her up but without the ignition wired in I'm a sitting duck.

I have that PDF, in more than one form hah. Once I get the ignition, starter, and alternator figured out, I'm golden. I wired up just about everything today. I'm where I am because the previous owner ripped it all out to install the EZ-harness. What I really need is a 'pinout' of the ignition if it exists.

Yeah, awesome- I just found and printed those. That should hold me over for a little bit heh. I'm still deciding how to use the stock dash with the harness kit. But I think I may hardwire the ignition/switches. Here's what I've got. I believe I have the pigtail for the ignition- just dont have the diagram/schematic for it. Edit: Im working on the front section first and have just a few loose ends to tie up: The harness is labeled with these wires- ALT PWR ALT EXCITOR COIL POS TACH CHOKE SOLENOID PWR IGN SW START The instructions would be great provided I had a Ford, Chevy, or Mopar- but I don't. Any help? Also- how is the coil wired up? Where does it go? All i have are cut wires...

Awesome, third time I've typed this up. Alright, so I have a 72' 240z and an EZ wiring harness (I forgot which one, but it's plenty). I have all of the diagrams I could find, and I'm using a color diagram from slash5.com. I'm no electronics noob, and have been messing with automotive wiring for quite a while. Even after consulting all my sources- I'm still slightly stumped due to the repetition of some of the wire colors. I'd like to integrate the EZ harness with the stock OEM plugs that go to the dash to keep it removable. I'm using this image ( http://album.hybridz.org/data/1/240Z_Instrument_Harness.jpg )- are there any similar diagrams that illustrate what each plug and wire is for, instead of just the colors? That'd make it much easier to snip off the old plugs and solder them to the new harness. Also- when replacing the harness what to do with the obsolete resistors, relays, etc? Should they stay? Replace them? Are you all using the stock voltage regulator? Did you add relays when re-wiring? Anything else I should know? I'm also eager to see photos of how everyone did theirs.