oldhemi

Find another shell if you can. It might take awhile. So, in the mean time get that sucker running good and if you want to try your hand at welding, you got yourself a "learner" + a parts car for that rust free car. Just dont put too much money into the thing as far as the body is concerned. Just my humble opinion.

ZT, a Cobra from that company is pretty damn sweet. But your Z looks pretty damn fine also. Maybe the best "wide" body that I have seen! Now, them's some flares.

I measured my early '74 260Z Coupe seats for you and they do retract to a little over 6" from the rear stow compartments to the back of the bottoms. I also measured 6" from the bottom of the 15" steering wheel to the top of seat bottom. With the seat all of the way back and the seat back locked in the "standard" position, I measured 21" from the bottom of the steering wheel to the seat back. The seat brackets were changed in 8/74 onwards. I dont know if there was more travel on those. This is on USA cars. I think that: 1 you gained more weight than you thought ( I do like my pies and am fat) 2 maybe the 2+2's had more travel 3 have the seat BACK adjusted too far towards the front.

Ztrain, those stripes are KOOL! "Ironic that my last car was an AC Cobra" C'mon, really? Jonh Coffey, thanks for that insight - sounds good to me! Kinfish, I guess I always have liked blue with stripes - 2 are better than one! BruceP, I agree that if you got just one big stripe than you should have 2 pinstripes to go with them. On another note, has anyone ever seen a Z with flames? I know that flames on my bike makes it faster! Just curious and I dont know Photoshop.

Yup, Geezer is too modest. He has been helping me decide on which welder to git. But I am a slow pupil - I have trouble with solder - wife used to do it for me. She wont crawl under sinks and such any more though.............

That's a lot of paint! Looks good!

You probably want to search on rusty gas tanks! You could have rubber lines or fuel pump deteriorating. You can use an air compressor to blow out the metal fuel lines. You can never have enough filters.

I concur with Frank - FWIW! I have found that Optima's dont last quite as long as some other name brands here in Houston. 8 years is a long time for a car that is not a DD!

I am curious as to what you did between the pics of removing the crossmember stiffener and welding it back on. Could you explain what you did as i have a similar problem that can be seen in the link in my signature. Thanks!

Tie that gas tank off of a rope(or 2) hanging from a tree or sumptin. Way easier on the arms! Sheetrock screws work good also. But like Frank sez: count em 1st!

Thanks Bruce!

Good info, Bruce. If one does find his dizzy has your described problem, is there a source for the parts?

Kathy & Rick, I wont be going to ZCON, but I will be in Bristol/Southington/Newington Connecticut for a few days in a few weeks. I would love to see your Z's - even if they aint 260's! Lemme know if that's a possibility!

Thanks MikeB and Geezer for the pics link and the diagram! That's my tank! Ron, the diagram clears up my question about where the big, top nipple hooks up - the filler pipe! Raining too hard and too dark in the house for my recalcitrant camera to work. My stamp on the top of the tank does not look like the same style and I have a sticker w/part on the side. The tank is resting comfortably on a old - but clean - towel in the parlor along with the 2 CB750's, 260Z seats and whatever else I can fit that I do not want exposed to Houston Humidity! My wife is great about using that room as an "inside shed". The dining room is being used to cure several hundred board feet of rough sawn oak. She is not too happy with that because of the smell. I wont do that again, I'll hire a couple of kids and have them haul it to the attic. It helps to have a 4400' house with only 1 old fart and a gracious older woman as occupants.

I will try to get some pics in the next few days or so. I want to be clear that this tank does have a rather large nipple on the top rear(opposite the 2 fuel lines) that I would think hooks up to an evaporator tank or maybe the filler neck. Does the non-emmissions tank have this nipple? I am not really looking to sell it and kinda hope that its not a big deal to use so that I have one less item to look for! OTH.......

Did you remove the return fuel line? It has an orifice in it that allows the fuel pressure to be "right". Just a thought.

, Ron! I stuck your name on it in case I croak before I use it. The mizzus will prolly sell it quick!

Looks like he raised the prices on some of the parts that I left behind on his new ad!!! Yeah, one can never have TOO many parts. But I have 3 other old cars, several motorcycles and literally tons of associated extra parts including whole parts cars/trucks/motorcycles. I am running out of room to store them and time to enjoy them! I really need to get rid of at least half of them............. wife would be ecstatic so that she does not have to deal with them when I croak. However, she does support me fixing the Z because she always liked driving it!

Thanks 26thz. Yup, its NOS. has scratches on the outside from being handled for so long. Has paint or some sort of coating on the inside - mostly. Looks like it was dipped, the paint is only half way up on the baffles. Since nothing happens very fast at Oldhemi's Garage, I'll contemplate on what do with it as I get more opinions. I would hate to use a possibly rare, desired/valuable part on my slightly modified Z when someone that has bucks wants it for a nth degree resto! I want to take some pictures of the tank with its markings and sticker but our camera is still acting up. I used some of the money for a new camera yesterday on Z parts - more important right now in my book. I have restored a couple of cars and most recently a 1969 Honda "Sandcast" CB750 and it drives me nuts when a chopper guy modifies a rare part when he could have used a later year part. I have most of the chopperhedz on hondachopper.com "educated" on this. I have had my 1970 750 chopper since 1974 and sure regret selling off my now-rare and expensive "unneeded" parts. I could have used some of those parts for the sandcast restore!

Hey there Ron! Not sure yet what i have here with the gas tank. No problem for me to wait on you getting your parts book back. This tank might just be for non-evaporator cars which I did know existed until you just posted! My wife thinks that I am nuts to even consider selling it!

I can tell you that picture 2 is the engine block breather, it hooks to the PCV system. Some guys on modified cars install a generic breather on it and the valve cover tube.. I took off the original carbs on my 1974 260Z 33 years ago so I cant remember parts on picture 3. I ran a long hose from the front to the fire wall. I still have the original hose coming off of the back of the block to the firewall. Post the year of your car - it would help for some more knowledgeable folks to help.

I picked up a NOS gas tank with factory stickers and markings. The part number is 17201-E4100 Main difference that I can see compared to my 260Z is that this one does NOT have the tube on the driver side for the long evaporator hose. I know that the return line circumference might be different, but I am running triple Webers and do not think that matters. I plan on using Beandip's method of getting rid of the evaporator tank. So, this tube that is missing does not need to be mucked with which is a good thing. Also, I think that I saw some threads that early 240's did not have this tube. I searched but I could not find this info. Is this tank worth more to somebody doing a spot on resto? I do need a tank. I am very sure that my 260 tank's pickup tube is perforated. I really dont know how rusted the inside is. My 260's tank has no dents and most of the factory paint is on the bottom. I would hate to use this NOS tank if it is a much wanted unit for 2 reasons: I could use ANY 70-74 tank and I could use the dollars if it is a rare, wanted piece. Once I use it, it is no longer NOS.

OK, I guess that I am committed to fixing my 260Z. A guy here in Houston acquired a bunch of parts to restore his '72, but has decided against it and is bailing. I picked up: Zeddfindings floors and rails - NEW Gas tank - NOS with factory stickers (and no pipe on drivers side for hose to evap tank) 2 front fenders with no rust on bottoms! But have a few holes where flairs were mounted. One still has a good parking light valance and they both have good headlight buckets. 2 parking light valances 2 New Tabco dogleg panels splash shield spindle removal tool - looks to be a very good one What I left behind - for now at least: 2 very nice fiberglass front fenders fiberglass front valance with one parking light. Never seen this piece before. Even has lines molded in where the corner valances would have been mounted. 2 recently redone butterscotch 240 seats and all interior parts passenger early 240 (no vent hole) rear quarter - pretty nice round top carbs door or 2 for 240Z - not for me:mad: a '72 very stripped roller with title - very nice front frame rails! So, this pile-o-parts will cover MOST of my needs. Now that his wife collected my cash and has seen some space in the garage, I might be able to get the roller for an attractive price. When I left, Dan the seller said, hey man I like selling to you - make me an offer on the roller! He was asking $200 but I feel that I can maybe get it for 1/2, but I would have to rent a trailer to get it home. What would interest me on the roller are: 4 240Z spring isolators so that I can lower my 260Z a bit using my original 22,000 mile springs that have been sitting in a box for 33 years. My Mulhollands are very hard and lowered the car too much. Control arms. Both of my rears are very pitted from New Endland salt. The spindle pins are REALLY rusted. My fronts are not real bad. Rollers LOOK to be very nice. Front inner fender frame rail sections. I need 2 of the frame/crossmember stiffeners for my rotted inner rails. I am wondering if I can remove these stiffeners and sheet metal on the roller and weld them onto mine??? Very nice passenger rear quarter and door that I have no use for. Driver quarter hit.:mad: Door also, but its a 240. Nice hatch that I dont need, but it has less surface rust then mine. Dented, but no rust rear valance. Does not have the 1/2 holes on the sides for my 260 bumper mounts. I guess that I could cut out the holes and weld up the 2 small slashes from where the bumper guards hit it. But, the body work and welding might be a bit much for me. There are some other parts but not much that I dont think have any value to me. I really dont want to ship big stuff, so I dont think that I will have a market for leftovers. I gotta think on this roller some. Any thoughts? Now I have to wait for cooler weather, its too hot right now for me to work on the car!

Patience grasshopper! 60 miles away, I would be on my way to inspect that car. I am a little suspect on the car - the rot or ? on the front fender, sloppy mask job on the vin plate. If you win the car, go with cash or bank check(better if seller accepts that). I cant see any reason for wiring a payment on a car so close! Edit: I missed where the seller stated that the paint was done awhile ago and that there was some rust spots poking through. Seems like an honest dude. Contact him and see what he has to say. That is a very nice car from what I can see!

260Z had an electric and mechanical pump. I think that they were internally regulated somewhat to about 4 - 5 lbs - IIRC. (You dont need the e-pump to run the car) IIRC again, the FSM stated that the pressure was 4 lbs. BUT, there was also an orifice - reducer - in the fuel return line which was the real regulator as WM says. I removed all the fuel rails when I installed 3 webers and did not have a return line. I had to put a FPR on after the m-pump and before the carbs to stop the leaks past the floats. I dialed it to 2 or 3lbs depending on what driving I was doing. You might have to do the same if the carbs need less than the stock pressure. Accepted installation these days is to run a back pressure regulator in the return line. Supposed to help reduce wear on the pump.