crazyoctopus

yep they are diamond racing wheels, 15x10 -25 with 225.50 tyres all around. Here is the write up on the daytime photos after a slight bit of ride height adjustment. More will be coming next week after I order some RLCAs to fix the toe and camber. http://crazyoctopi.blogspot.com/

drove up on some 2x4s so that I could get the floor jack under the front cross member, and then raised the front of the car by an inch. I was able to clear the small hump to get out of the parking lot, but the rears were still rubbing on everything on the drive back home. Today I will be adjusting ride height; probably a half an inch up in the rear and half an inch lower in the front. also as far as RLCA angle goes... it isnt bad at all. They are just a tab above parallel, so raising the rears that half inch should correct it.

The total cost came to $300 out the door, which i had no issue at all paying. Thankfully the shop let me lurk around while all the work was taking place and take photos of the whole process, so I know how difficult it actually was. Here is a shot of the car after it was finished at the shop. There is no way that I could actually drive the car without raising it up just a smidge.

it is a shop, and yes they will do everything; i drive my car there and pick it up later with everything installed. I have never personally gone to him before, but the guy has had a shop going for 10 years and has a very good rep on the some volvo forums. thanks 70 cam guy, fair price it is!!

I am about to get my struts sectioned to install some megan coil-over conversion brackets, as well as weld in some strut tops (camber in front and static ones in the rear). I am curious if $50 a corner is a good/fair price for the removal, cut, tig weld, and install of the coil-overs.

i'll have the whole assembly ready to ship later this week when it stops raining. there are essentially 3 parts to the ebrake the handle the rod assembly the cables which one do you need? --I am goign to swap over to the 240sx e-brake so i have no need for the current one.

i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one. - modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present - color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box - different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock - big visual change for routing. - red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch larger image found HERE

Right now i am in the process of making the diagram look like it will be wired, as well as seeing where I could cut costs. While trying to fix my brake issue I noticed that the 240z has a 2 terminal flasher unit so I am in the process of working that relay into the drawing. would this set up work? the only thing that I am hesitant on is the emergency switch, I feel that if i turn on the turn signal switch both lights will still come on.

yeah yeah, but the GM HEI unit will "work" until I find a 280zx dizzy in a junkyard. For now though, I am interested if I was the only one that is dealing with this.

So I have been googleing and searching around multiple forums and I have yet to actually find a response to my query. I recently installed a GM HEI module with an MSD Blaster II coil hooked up to a 280z distributor into my l24 with triple webers. When I had SUs and points the tach would work its way up to 6-7k rpm with no issues, but now that the GM HEI unit is in there the tach doesn't like to go past 5k. The engine sound does change, and the engine keeps pulling all the way through the apparent power band, but the Tach does not show a change past 5k. Is this normal? Do I need to add a diode/resistor somewhere. Other than not having the visual reference, it doesn't seem to impact performance but curious if I am the only person that has dealt with this.

oiluj, nice banner but why did you block off your brake ducts?

in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout. and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire. This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay

changes made, removed the slow action of the wiper as well. it is now, from what i can tell, fast-off (honda wiper motor). large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4498464677_2382771c22_o.jpg

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned. for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

here is the updated with your relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome. larger http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4494922924_ddfa414f76_o.jpg once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.