crazyoctopus

yep they are diamond racing wheels, 15x10 -25 with 225.50 tyres all around. Here is the write up on the daytime photos after a slight bit of ride height adjustment. More will be coming next week after I order some RLCAs to fix the toe and camber. http://crazyoctopi.blogspot.com/

drove up on some 2x4s so that I could get the floor jack under the front cross member, and then raised the front of the car by an inch. I was able to clear the small hump to get out of the parking lot, but the rears were still rubbing on everything on the drive back home. Today I will be adjusting ride height; probably a half an inch up in the rear and half an inch lower in the front. also as far as RLCA angle goes... it isnt bad at all. They are just a tab above parallel, so raising the rears that half inch should correct it.

The total cost came to $300 out the door, which i had no issue at all paying. Thankfully the shop let me lurk around while all the work was taking place and take photos of the whole process, so I know how difficult it actually was. Here is a shot of the car after it was finished at the shop. There is no way that I could actually drive the car without raising it up just a smidge.

it is a shop, and yes they will do everything; i drive my car there and pick it up later with everything installed. I have never personally gone to him before, but the guy has had a shop going for 10 years and has a very good rep on the some volvo forums. thanks 70 cam guy, fair price it is!!

I am about to get my struts sectioned to install some megan coil-over conversion brackets, as well as weld in some strut tops (camber in front and static ones in the rear). I am curious if $50 a corner is a good/fair price for the removal, cut, tig weld, and install of the coil-overs.

i'll have the whole assembly ready to ship later this week when it stops raining. there are essentially 3 parts to the ebrake the handle the rod assembly the cables which one do you need? --I am goign to swap over to the 240sx e-brake so i have no need for the current one.

i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one. - modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present - color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box - different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock - big visual change for routing. - red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch larger image found HERE

Right now i am in the process of making the diagram look like it will be wired, as well as seeing where I could cut costs. While trying to fix my brake issue I noticed that the 240z has a 2 terminal flasher unit so I am in the process of working that relay into the drawing. would this set up work? the only thing that I am hesitant on is the emergency switch, I feel that if i turn on the turn signal switch both lights will still come on.

yeah yeah, but the GM HEI unit will "work" until I find a 280zx dizzy in a junkyard. For now though, I am interested if I was the only one that is dealing with this.

So I have been googleing and searching around multiple forums and I have yet to actually find a response to my query. I recently installed a GM HEI module with an MSD Blaster II coil hooked up to a 280z distributor into my l24 with triple webers. When I had SUs and points the tach would work its way up to 6-7k rpm with no issues, but now that the GM HEI unit is in there the tach doesn't like to go past 5k. The engine sound does change, and the engine keeps pulling all the way through the apparent power band, but the Tach does not show a change past 5k. Is this normal? Do I need to add a diode/resistor somewhere. Other than not having the visual reference, it doesn't seem to impact performance but curious if I am the only person that has dealt with this.

oiluj, nice banner but why did you block off your brake ducts?

in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout. and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire. This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay

changes made, removed the slow action of the wiper as well. it is now, from what i can tell, fast-off (honda wiper motor). large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/4498464677_2382771c22_o.jpg

gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned. for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

here is the updated with your relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome. larger http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/4494922924_ddfa414f76_o.jpg once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

yeah, I think that I will be relocating back under the hood. a lot less wring would be involved, and like you mentioned the weight of the 1awg wire wouldnt be there.

liked the second one alot. i might run into an issue with the kill switch being tapped onto my main battery cable; 1 awg is thick $^!#. i like how the relays are laid out and how everything is tied together. i'll make these changes when i can, but before i do i need to throw some pretty parts on teh car

yeah that wont work... i'll fix it in the morning...

Alright, I am not sure if this actually works, but the theory of this kill switch makes inebriated sense. one switch for the dizzy and alt, but has their own relay, even though i know they dont need one it makes it a ground switch and can control both circuit without much load on it. when the ground kill switch is off all power running to the relays will be cut; before and after the fuse box. I added a few maxi fuses in there, the 120A from the starter to the fusebox is just a guess, 10A at the coil and alt are to match what is in the fuse box.

the safety switch isnt a temporary on, it is a standard switch. all it does is break the connection from button to starter if it is off; that way if i am in a not-so-safe neighborhood i can just flick it off and by pushing the button it does nothing. the name of safety is a bit misleading should have been "security," my mistake. i can see what you are talking about with their own individual circuits, and since i have the room to run them i will be separating them. for the kill switch i came across this diagram and really dig that it ground switched rather than the hot switched BIG RED LEVER that most people use. ==actually i really dont like this layout due to there being many connections to the battery post, also these wires would be used in place of the power that i already have going to those locations. i am reworking what i see here so that it runs before the switches/relays giving a true kill. flood light, yeah... just need to find one in a junk yard... hmmm maybe i'll head over today and see if there is one. In regards to the fusable links via maxi, since it adds safety without adding a significant addition of complexity I dont see why i wouldn't include it.

Thanks for the incredible corrections to the diagram! -starter: yeah a bit if a boo boo there. There are really only two places that the wires can go so I just made one a neg. When I have a chance I'll make it clearer as to where the wires go; most likely either use the one from the second diagram or make my own from a fronal view of the starter. Diode will be moved at te same time -Safety switch: was put in place so that the starter button would not activate if the switch was off. -alt coil relay: great news about the loss of a relay. I am a bit confused about your suggestion for the coil wiring. From what I understand all that I would need to do would be to replace the relay with a switch and keep the wiring how it is. -kill switch: as per, I think, SCCA regs you need to have a way to turn off power to everything from the driving position. I want to make it so there are two. One that is easily accessable and the other that will act as the safety somewhere else in the line; the initial "safety switch" was something along those lines, but just not as potent. -reverse flood switch: in reality the only reason why this is there is because my reverse switch that is attached to the tranny has both of the wire snipped/snapped/broken off, so this was the only way for me to get reverse lights until I find another switch. When that happens I plan to route the stocks lights to it, and the flood attached to a switch. Please please, do make drawings to correct/modify/change the diagram to simplify/clarify the diagram. A question on the uses of fuseable links/ maxi fuses: why would you need one if there is already one in that circuit? Thanks again geezer!

If the battery were mounted under the hood the ground wire attached to the alt would be prime; but mine is going to be mounted in the rear passenger bin so that wire would have to be at least an 8 gauge. I am going to probably going to use a 8 to connect it somewhere on the firewall. I did make one change to the second diagram that you sent, and that is instead of running 2-wires back to the starter I am going to use a jumper from the # to the Batt on the alternator and run one wire back to the starter. updated diagram. spliced points moved on the starter to better show where the wires will be meeting. also added the information for properly wiring the alternator via geezer larger image http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4477751862_9ff537d584_o.jpg

thanks for the input, and the wiring was a good reference; however I don't think i will be using it with this diagram. while it does kill the pump in an accident, it also adds complexity. For a non-track car, or for a restoration car i would definitely add this bit of safety into it, but to keep cost down and simplicity high, no real need. as far as the diode goes, what type are you using? I have also heard of using a charge light, but i am truly lost when people start talking about it. if i use a regular 2-pin led/autometer light would that work?

the alternator wiring was brought up on hybridz, and I had to make sure that it was also clear on classicz as well. == after doing a bit of looking, i knew there was a reason why this set up was working, and found the link i was looking for http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=115803 if you look at my diagram the splice connecting the alt to the coil is after the delco 8078 pigtail. The splices in the diagram in its current state do not relate to the actual placement on the car just to be used as a reference, for now.

nope not going to use it. the interior lighting is going to be taken care of from a flashlight. if you really wanted to add it, i would tap it off of the heater circuit with a switch.