zul8tr

I just got a new set of 40 DCOE triple webers and am having problems with fuel leaking from the carbs. I bought a set years ago for another Z, and they worked great right out of the box, but I can't get these new ones to stop leaking. These are the newer ones with the plastic floats. The documentation says that the closed position of the float should be 12.5 mm from the cover gasket and 25 mm max open. I have tried these settings and have even progressively moved the closed position all the way up to 20 mm, leaving only 5 mm movement of the floats, but they still leak. I have read online that if you remove the jet inspection cover, take out the main jet that there should be 29 mm from the lower shelf to the top of the fuel level, + or - 0.05. I have 28.9 mm. I got the Carter low pressure fuel pump that is not supposed to require a fpr, but since I had the leaking problem, I installed one anyways and have progressively lowered it to 2lbs, and still leaking! I don't have a lot of fuel leakage, just a drop every minute or two from the bolts that hold on the air horns. Also, if I run my finger along the edge of the bottom carburetor cover, my finger will always come away wet with gas as well. While this is not a lot, I'm concerned about a potential fire with the gas droping on the header. Oh... I have also taken apart and cleaned the needle valve that the floats push against to stop fuel from entering the reservoir. I have corresponded with Redline and they tell me it has to be the float setting or debri in the needle valve, but I have adjusted the floats to 7 different positons and cleaned the needle valve each time for good measure. Any suggestions, I'm really anxious to get my Z running?

First, thanks for posting such through pictures of your exhaust. I just got the same exhaust system, but am having a few problems installing it and was wondering if you ran accross this. I have a 73 240z with the MSA Aerospace Thermal Coated Headers. If I bolt the exhaust pipe onto the header tightly, it misses the exhaust tunnel completely and ends up pointing under the differential. It appears I can bolt all pipes very loosely together and attach to the hangers, and everything will be in the correct place, so then I could tighten the exhaust flanges to force the exhaust into the tunnel. I'm afraid though that with that much leverage (the length of the exhaust pipe), I might be putting too much stress on the exhaust studs in the head and risk them popping out. Is this a valid concern? Thanks for any input. Mike