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No Low Headlight Beam Function
you guys rock. my car's been doing this forever... I went through the ENTIRE combination switch, checked fusible links, traced every wire from my switch to the lights pretty much looking for loose connectors or something... but scraped out the green and the RB wire in the C2 connector, and BAM I have lights. woo!
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My datsun dosent like me
my car did this one morning randomly, ran so rich, blowing smoke and no throttle response, just dying if it started, and it was so rich I was getting gas past my rings into my oil. I swapped engines because of it out of another z with a l28, but I've still had issues with mixture and crazy issues with hesitation, throttle response failure and basically running like a dog. I've checked nearly everything, and what boggles me is that it's bi-polar just like yours, one day it runs perfect, another day off the heezey messed up... basically, I've noticed inthe last few days that if I play with the sweeper and the connections and grounds of my AFM, just making sure it's all making good contact, it runs fine. this is just an idea, but it's what has worked for me for the past 2 or 3 days so far. so I'd say look in to the AFM and ALL it's connections, especially the sweeper, make sure it's contacting that strip well. might help =) good luck
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stupid question I know...
if anyone still needs an FSM for the 78, this site has it complete. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html that way not EVERYONE is relying on Stephen haha.
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How much did you spend for your Z?
got my 78 280z for 200 bucks, 3 days later, no joke, we get an 80 280zx for FREE!
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Engine swap technical difficulties
no timing light so I can't be specific. but I'm using the Z distributor because the orientation of the key to the rotor is the same Z to ZX when I checked... but I'll double check... again haha. thanks everyone for the help. why are these things so complicated!?
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Engine swap technical difficulties
well, it starts without it being real retarded now, and that's what I thought, but they have an offset key that will only drop in one way so that isn't possible . also I did compare the 78 to the 80 distributor and they're identical in alignment of the key to all the plugs. My main issue right now is it's rough, and it's still a bit rich.
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Engine swap technical difficulties
Hello everyone, I have a 78 280z 2+2 with a 4 speed. I recently had issues with the engine that made it run rich enough to gas up the oil and it wouldn't run without flooring it basically. I had the AFM adjusted leaner, the cold start disconnected, and had it running well and one day it did this. so we swapped the engine out of my dad's 80 280zx because he wants a SBC in his. I had to move my temp sensor to the thermostat like on the old engine, use my distributor and replace the temp gauge sending unit, along with a few other swaps to configure the cooling and the vacuum to work right. The engine ran GREAT in his car, and we just put his AFM into it with the engine. we couldn't get it to start, so we did a ton of simple checks like plugs, wires, etc. figured out the firing order was wrong on the dist cap and after we got it right it started up and ran rough. we checked the timing and got it running smoother, but the next day we went to start it and now it won't start at all. it gets fairly close but only if the timing is really retarded, and the pops thinks it's loading up with too much fuel. any ideas on why? it's getting to be really annoying sharing 2 vehicles with 3 people when I have my car licensed and it's not running... any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks everyone who takes the time to read my novel thread.
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Running Rich issue
also, if you're still running rich... adjusting your AFM might help http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html
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Running Rich issue
If I have the cold start disconnected, does my thermotime affect anything else? also, if my temp sending unit gives a signal to my gauge, does that automatically mean it's working properly? I'm getting <10 MPG. neeeeed help. also, my EGR was blocked off, so I set it up again... and when I downshift it backfires. I'm just super confused. I've been reading forums and the FSM for hours. just not quite figuring it out completely. milage is ridiculous.
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75 280 Idle issues
alright, thanks. that's what I thought it was, but being new to these cars all these abbreviations are killing me hah!
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75 280 Idle issues
question, could anyone show some pictures of the holes to plug and not to plug? becasue I know there're 2 right inside the TB, big and little, plug the big, but there's also a hole on the other side of the butterfly? and if you plug the BCDD, should you hotwire it with a 12v? or unplug it? and if you hotwire then you're just running a hot 12v to the single wire connection correct? and here's a stupid question... AAR? is that the air regulator that helps with cold start on top of the intake?
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Dillie here!
Hey guys, name's Dylan, I got a 78 280z 2+2 for christmas, just thought I'd say hey! also, I've been trying to find out what rear diff is in my car? I'm having issues ha yes I know there are forums galore on this, but I wonder because it says that 280s with manuals had the r200 with like 3.54s or something like that... but nothing is said about the 2+2 and honestly, I think the gearing would be lower because at 75 I'm revving on the top side of 3500. sorry if this is a nuisance, but I am just curious.