olzed

Looking good.

Facing towards the engine.

The slinger is fitted with the cup on the perimeter facing the engine. Nissan saw fit to make one to go on there, so if it were me i would put it on. Can't do any harm.

I always get that high pitched whine. Especially when I corner or accelerate hard. Seems to come from the passenger side though. And almost as though someone is applying the brakes.

Wow, the old tensioner and guides are toast. Your engine will be easier to time now that the crank sprocket is around the correct way, and you just might unleash a few more ponies.

How about put a little dimple in the header pipe

The tensioner looks like it's close to popping out, if not already out. Are the wear strips worn out?

What Blue said. You are changing the towers from one perfectly true surface to another, so there should not be a problem. Just make sure there is NO grime under the towers.Tighten them down evenly and in stages,and if any do show signs of binding, give them a crack near the base with a plastic hammer or block of wood.

Yes to the oil pump gasket. And no, I have never seen a gasket under the dizzy. And treat the long water pump bolts gently. They are probably corroded in. Edit. Actually you don't have to take all the water pump bolts out to take off the front cover. (from memory)

I wonder where all the bits in the pan came from?:paranoid: I'm sure the straight guide in your picture has lost it's wear surface.

You can put the engine at TDC Grant, but if you don't it's not a big deal, and easy enough to time later. You are going to fit a new chain and guides while your in there, and it's not too difficult to retime the dizzy and pump. Have fun. Brian.

In you first picture, although it is a little hard to tell, It looks to me like the chain guide has lost it's guide surface and the chain is running on metal.

Very nice job. Is that a 2 litre in there.?

A second to valve stem seals Lee. I was getting a bit of smoke after a down hill on a trailing throttle. then accelerating, which is symptomatic of valve stem seals gone hard. I did the job in a couple of hours with the head in place. You need a spring compressor that hooks under the cam, and stuff as much cord into the cylinder as you can to hold the valves closed. Or compressed air into the spark plug hole. via a special fitting in place of the spark plug. to hold the valves closed.. Your comp is OK. Brian. Edit. If you havn't done many miles on it, you could find the comp. might improve as the rings settle down again. There could have been some surface rust on the cylinders walls. This could also account for some smoke.

Alternator bearing??

I've had the Toyos for around 8 years now. Done about 20,000 miles. They are fine.

So have you bled the system again. Put a clear plastic hose into a jar with some brake fluid in it.Put the other end on the slave bleeder. Get an assistant to push the pedal down while you crack the bleeder. See any bubbles? You might still have air in there. After a proper bleed and everything is good, there should be some resistance to the pedal.

spell I had a bad experience with brand new FALKEN tires fitted to my 240. I noticed a different feel with the car as though the wheels were oval. The shop that sold. fitted and balanced them would not accept there was a problem, and basically told me to 'go away.' Which I did and have never been back there. I went to a different shop for a second opinion. They tried to get them running true on my new alloy rims, but it turned out the tires were oval. Went to another shop and got a set of Toyo's. I offered the Falkens to them thinking I may get a few bucks, but they didn't want them even for free. Said they were like cheap truck tires. FWIW Brian.

That is a lovely car. A hell of a lot of hard work. Congrats on the a job beautifully done.

I also would not drive the car like that. In your second picture it looks as though the guide has lost it's surface as well. Bite the bullet and fix it.

Oversize bearing shells can only be fitted if the crank has been ground to that particular size. Your mechanic friend only told you half the story. 200k is not too much for these engines providing she has had regular oil and filter changes. Is there signs of damage to the crank.?? The only way to tell if the crank needs grinding is if it measures oval with a micrometer, or if there is some damage to one of the bearing surfaces. To do this the engine really needs to be out of the car, and the crank removed. If your oil pressure is OK don't worry. It will be fine.

Yep sounds as though the tensioner has popped out.

My thoughts as well. Different tyres might mask the main issue which will be wear in steering components.

Hi Pete from another oldie from across the ditch. Keep at the resto. Brian.

Yes WTF is SBC