olzed

Jenny .Out fo all this, you should have enough knowledge to give her a decent valve setting. Don't panic, as there isn't really anything you can do wrong, unless you drop something into the motor, which would not be good!!! Good luck. I'm going to be spending the next few days skim bogging and re-spraying a front fender on my 240. I had the whole car baremetal resprayed 11 years ago and for the last couple of years have been chasing bubbling surface rust on both fenders. The 'experts' had put a skim of bog straight onto bare metal, with the results that rust forms where the bog is not adhered to the metal. After taking off the paint to the metal then sanding of any rust marks, I have been putting zinc rich etch primer on first then standard primer, then skim bog,to take out some ripples, then more prime. Am I doing it right? Sorry to get off topic here! Happy Christmas everyone . Brian. From down under.

Jenny. Removing the spark plugs from a hot motor can result in the plug threads 'picking up', or what you may call 'galling'.It's when the alloy thread in the head, attaches to the thread of the spark plug. My son had this unfortunate occurance on an MX5 Mazda, resulting in having to have two threads redone with 'helicoil' Removing spark plugs or bolts on a hot motor can have dire results. I have had bolts break with very little effort applied, when working on a hot engine. These days I always let the engine cool before I do anything, also much more pleasant working on a cold engine. My Haynes manual for L24 and L26 engines suggests Hot----Inlet---.010----exhaust---.012 Cold---Inlet---.008----exhaust---.010 Sorry I don't have specs for a L28, but would guess it would be the same. The lock nuts always seem stupidly tight, but a good wrench that fits properly and turn them the correct way and you should be OK. If you know which way to turn the screws to take off the valve cover, then just apply the same thinking. Anticlockwise will loosen them. Slip the feeler gauge between the heel of the cam and the rocker. Just a thought on spark plugs. When I put in new spark plugs I smear some copper coat on the threads, and this would save the threads from galling if they were removed from a hot engine. Just my 2c.for what it may be worth. Brian

Is the Lake pipe just a dummy .? I was going to say it would be noisy to drive with that exiting by your ear, but of course you sit on the left. We are right hand. Good luck with it.

Silly question I guess, have you got damping oil in the little cylinder, and the correct grade. Could there be gunge in the damping oil. Unlikely, given the carbs are newly rebuilt. Brian.

Well thats something I never knew. The saying 'never too old to learn is true' An interesting link.

No, you are right Steve. If it was a spark issue , using the choke or throttle would not keep it running. At least I wouldn't think so. If the slide is stuck open that carb will be running richer than the other one, so would not the revs increase, or that carb be flooding? Perhaps not, as the butterflys are still shut. I'm no help with electronic ignition. I'm still running the points setup in my 240. Brian

Amazing service from Z Therapy. Sure hope your cars fixed Steve. My 72 runs great most of the time and pulls strong, except on hot summer days, which we are experiencing at the moment. The car runs OK on a journey,and if it's raining , but when it's hot and sunny, doesn't like tooling through the city and stopping at traffic lights. It will give a couple of coughs when I move off and then smooth out again. Could this be fuel vapourising.? When I touch the carbs they are very hot. Is this normal. ? Brian OOPS We must be sitting at the keyboard at the same time. Sorry to here theres still a problem. Might be spark issues . Do you run origional coil/ distributor?

Happy birthday.

I guess I'm nicely 'antiqued' balding with wrinkly patina, and nicely broken in, Or would that be timeless beauty, as in classic.

So it would take a very vivid imagination to think a 350Z or a 370Z have reached Classic status. 240- 260-280 i'm OK with,and probably the 300ZX Z31. 84-89. 300ZX- Z32, 90-96 not so sure, but then they are over 20 years old as well.!!!

Steve. Would you let us know the outcome ,thanks. Brian

Broke my cable a year ago. Luckily the hood had popped at the same time so I didn't have the hassle of trying to release it. Bought a new cable complete from MSA. It's obviously time everyone with these old cars replace the hood release cable as they are past there prime. They are not too expensive either, and a new cable is good insurance in my opinion.

So a 300 350, 370 , may indeed one day be classics, but at the moment they are just along for the ride on the reputation of the true recognised classics, as Idaho kid said 240-260-280.

Thats quite an achievment, but why consider selling if it's so great. Is he not happy with the result.? Seems odd to me.:stupid: IMHO I would rather see a six NA in that engine bay. The rest of the build is amazing.

$60. Grab it quickly. I have a new one from MSA $700 landed in NZ. Sitting in a drawer unused because I managed to repair the old one. I highly recommend Daves products. Used one of his headlight relay harness upgrades on my 240. In a word, 'brilliant'. Brian.

Can somebody enlighten me on what models are considered these days to be a Classic Z. 1972 240Z. Is it a classic? 2003 350Z. Is it considered to be a classic? 370Z???

Ice. Didn't even think of that. Had a VW years ago that did that, and you could actually see the ice on the long thin tubular manifold. Also had ice with a Corrolla that was missing a warm air tube on the air cleaner. Fixed it with a length of plastic bottle.

Does it run better with the chokes on a little. If so it's running lean and you need to think about different needles. 3 litre needs more fuel and gas than a 2.4. What colour are your plugs? Hopefully Bruce from Z Therapy will chime in here.

Did you fit different needles to accomodate the greater requirment for fuel of the 3 litre over the 2.4? You may be using the same head but the larger engine needs more fuel/air. I would doubt from what you describe that there is anything wrong with the carbs.

It's great when all the hard work pays off Cozye. The single biggest improvement on my 240 was when I fitted power steering. I did this mod three years ago and still get a huge feeling of satisfaction when I drive her. It's like a modern car.(except the diff clunk) Parking is a breeze now. No more looking for space to turn.

Those studs in there will pull that down with no effort.

Escutcheon. Just a few more examples. An every day term in the use or manufacture of black powder muskets. A plate usually bronze or silver to protect the stock wood where ,for example a pin was passed through the stock and then through a tang to hold the barrel to the stock. A plate of bone, ivory, bronze, silver etc. to be engraved with hunting scenes, flags, makers name, etc. Not a Japanese term.

You should note Grant, that I suggested Bud be guided by his repairman. I shouldn't think he would have suggested a new hood unless it was in a pretty bad way. Surface rust is fairly obvious don't you think.As Bud states in his first statment. "The hood is rusting from the inside out"

I think I would be guided by your repairman Bud. That is providing you can actually buy a different hood. The two front corneres are where the hinges are so there needs to be some good metal in that area. You would be happier in the end with a new hood in my opinion. Brian.

Hi Bud. The hood would rust in that area because thats where any water would sit after washing. I thought I was a Geriatric Zedder at 67 but i'm just a puppy.Good on ya.