olzed

Good effort John.I bought my 72 240 11 years ago, and it clocked over to zero when I drove it home. I can still remember 10 years ago, after a major overhaul, inside and out, on my car, putting it all back together and firing it up for the first time in 12 months. I very nearly wept with joy, after all the hard work. Apart from some clutch issue which was my fault, my car hasn't let me down in 25000 miles. They tend to become a loved family friend. Hope you have years of enjoyment from yours.

The front brake calipers can be removed and Toyota 4x4 four pot calipers fitted to improve the front brakes. Vented front discs can also be fitted to improve cooling. As a rule, unless you do performance driving, the standard brakes are very good. Maybe a new set of pads for the front is all thats needed. Motorsport Auto sell kits to do these alterations, or you can gather parts from car parts shops and do the changes this way. On my 72 240 we did a driver training day at a local track and after a number of quick stops the brakes were cooking and not pulling the car up. Having some engineering knowledge I was able to gather parts from PicaPart and put together my own performance front brakes. Toyota 4x4 calipers and vented discs from a Mitsi station wagon. Total cost about $150. If you are happy with the front brakes leave them alone till they need attention. Just check for leaking fluid.

Don't waste your time and money on that heap. Get a two seater 240 or 260 in better condition. Result is much more satisfying and should be worth more. Just my opinion.

Sounds like a job for an auto electrician.Could be a crook alternator.

What don't you understand?

Hi from New Zealand Thor. Nice car well done.

That is a nice looking 260.

Iv'e had similar on my 240. After draining and refilling the radiator it started to overheat. Realised it had an air lock so loosened the engine side hose and purged the air as it was running, at the same time filling radiator with hot water.Iv'e had this a couple of times over the years, and yes, glug glug glug!!!

MSA. Four days from US to NZ .Good enough for me. Tried Victoria British years ago. Waited months for the parts. I havn't tried anyone else and don't see the need to.

I have purchased numerous parts for my 240Z over the last ten years from Motorsport Auto in Orange California, and have found them very prompt and reliable. I don't bother with others.

Could be something as simple as knocking a wire off with your elbow. I have done that:stupid:

Is the fuel smell with a full tank of gas?

Fuel smell in car. Is it when the tank is full. Could be a perished filler pipe?

I have a 72 240 as well and have tried most everything to remove the diff clunk. Mine does it when moving off in reverse as well as forward, which makes me think it's not the front diff mount that is the problem. I put in a diff and halfshafts from a 260, complete with new driveshaft, and the clunk persists. I have double checked all the mountings, and everything is tight. I have concluded after talking to others, that it is a problem with the 240 and 260 diffs. On rotating the driveshaft it is quite easy to initiate a decent clunk, even by hand. There is a lot of backlash in these diffs. :stupid:

We have a stupid law in our city that everyone is bitchin about. We drive on the left, and there are bus lanes on the left where cars are not allowed to drive, until the last 50 metres from the intersection, when you can pull into that lane to execute a left turn. The local authority has people with cameras set up to photograph any offender, who then gets a $150 fine in the post. The question is, how the hell do you tell where 50 metres is, in a car travelling at 30mph- 50kph. I could understand it if they had a painted line on the road or something like that, so that people had a chance to abide by this stupid law.:stupid: Revenue gathering . I would say so, and no, I havn't been caught --yet.

Why was it removed. Did they think it was dumped.?

Wish we were there, instead of shivering in another stinking winter. I suppose this is payback for months of glorious summer.

I use my 240 only once a month for club outings. Havn't encountered any problems. I do check the oil and water before I start it each time. Once a cat leapt off the engine as I lifted the hood. Startled the crap out of me. The car is in a locked, covered courtyard, so no problem the cat getting in.

HELL. Thats a $16000 car down here. Some lucky s.o.b.

Thanks for the reply Gary. The carbs were out of sync. Its been 10 years since I fiddled with them and had forgotten what I was doing:stupid: Old age you know!!!!All solved now, cheers.

Hi .1972 240z. Standard SU type carbs. I noticed I can turn the mixture right in on the front carb and it starts to faulter. I do the same on the rear carb and very little change. Took the air cleaner off and placed my hand over the front carb inlet and heaps of suction. On the rear carb very little suction. Placed a vacuum tester, or balancer at each carb throat and the rear carb is very low on vacuum even at a very fast idle. The engine runs well and pulls well. Any ideas.:stupid:

Are all the L series starter motors the same. Can I retro fit a 280z onto a 2.4 motor.?

Capacity---Type A tranny. 4 speed 240---3.2 US pints -----------Type B tranny. 4 speed 260---4 US pints -----------5 speed 240 and 260---3.2 US pints. Auto--------11.5 US pints

The box isn't overfull is it? That might be a cause of oil coming out around the shifter . The spinning driveshaft can throw oil everywhere including up.

Hi from over the ditch Jamar. Cold here too, and its piddling down at the moment. Buy a 240Z mate. you will love it.: