olzed

Very very nice job.

Zed Head probably meant--IDIOT previous owner--And he would be correct.

Turn signal switch from MSA is $499.

With the car on a level surface, stretch a strong string or fishing line around all four wheels, good and tight, as near to the centre line of each wheel as you can. Centralise the steering wheel. You will see at a glance how much toe you have on all wheels, and how straight your car is. I always used this method to align wheels on motorbikes, and it seems to work on cars as well.

Not too dificult to make one of these. You need access to a small lathe.Hack saw. Drill. Some pipe for a handle, three or four inches of heavy wall tube to machine into the required dimensions to press on the valve spring, some 1/8 inch flat m/s to cut into a hook shape to go under the cam. A couple of 3/8 inch bolts. A bench grinder, and some imagination.

Only when hot. Fuel vaporizing maybe??

Jimmy richards comments after winning with the GTR Nissan were right on the money. He was a neighbour of mine many years ago, and is a descent guy who did not deserve that reception.

He doesn't say what car he has. Or did i miss that bit? If it's a 240 there are no clips.

I have neither the front or rear spoiler on my 72, and do have mild instability at highway speed, and thats only 100 km in NZ. Funny thing is, it seems to stabilize at speeds above that.

Probably worrying over nothing. Drive it as normal for a few thousand, and give it a chance to bed those rings.

Have fun tomorrow.

The float valve is more than likely stuck open. Try giving the side of the carb bowl a few taps with a wrench. If that doesn't work, remove the float bowl and check the valve. It may have some gunk trapped under it. Also check the float for fuel leaking into it.

Don't try to tighten exhaust manifold nuts on a HOT engine. You will almost certainly snap the studs.

A very nice colour.

In NZ the ribbed flex stuff is known as 'Donkey Doodle' . I would use it only as a last resort. Looks awful.

He obviously has many thousands 'invested' in this car, and is trying to recoup some of the expense. Not my cup of tea, but then it doesn't have to be. There are people out there who will love this, but probably not for his price. What would anyone here think it is worth? To them.

Also a good idea to check that some of the head studs are not bottoming out in their holes.

That is amazing welding skills.

Hi from Auckland NZ. Slightly off topic but, Would any of you Ausie guys know of a 'Barn Find' ww2 Jeep that may be for sale. Brian.

Wheel bearing perhaps.???

If the head and block is getting hot, but the radiator is not, it could be an air lock. With the engine running, and the rad full, loosen the hose clamps on the hose that runs along the engine right hand side above the starter motor, and give the hose and clamps a few wriggles to burp out the air. Retighten clamps with the engine running, and don't forget to refill radiator. Worked for me, and worth a shot.

What you describe might be nothing more than condensation. Idling for 10 minutes is not long enough. Give the car a GOOD run to burn the water from the oil, then check for the milky substance. Idling is no good. Half an hour drive is better. Also-- If there is there bubbles coming into the radiator this could be an indication of a blown head gasket.

I found a length of plastic tubing placed against the carb throat and the ear is very effective for balancing carbs. Just get the sucking sound for each one the same pitch. Easy.

Haha. The front bumper comes off when the car nose dives, and then when they drive back the front bumper is attached again.

And don't get any grease or oil on the rotor, or you will have no brakes.