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Did you get the fuel from the same gas station. Could be water in the fuel.

I only drink water on trips. I was drinking a product similar to Gatorade every day over the summer, and developed rotten headaches, which stopped when i stopped the drinks.

Car looks in great shape.

Down here (NZ) we used to call these things 'Nerf' bars.????

Depends how much it is bent, but why don't you remove the flange and have someone with a lathe take a skim off the face. A very simple operation, and i doubt that it would weaken it. No need to take the diff out of the car. I would machine up a tight fitting mandrel in the lathe,to spin the pinion on. You will see at a glance how much it is bent, and if the mandrel is a good tight fit in the flange, a series of light cuts can be performed on the flange. If you really want to get fancy you can thread the end of the mandrel, and put on a nut to hold the flange.

I had a serious shoulder injury and was unable to steer the car,and didn't drive it for over a year, so power steering was a good option. I used to like the road feel with manual steering, but after the injury, twisty roads and tight parking bacame difficult.

I have Subaru power steering for around six years on my 240.Bolts to the original mounts with a little fiddling with pipe fittings, pipework etc. but it is very possible to do. Transforms the car.

This car does not have injectors . They are called carburetors,and they would have been SUs made by Hitachi. Due to the fact you are waving the camera all over the place, it's very hard to tell what the carbs are now. Holleys perhaps? By all means get her runnin' but sort out the rust issues before you waste money and time on performance 'stuff' Without a sound body, you have nuthin'. Mechanicals is the easy part. At one stage at around 1min 30 you are holding an aftermarket inlet manifold for a down draught carburetor. Thought there was a sump pan there as well, but again it was hard to tell. Good luck with her.

Haha. Thanks Tim.

This engine has been running at idle (and an occasional rev to attract people) for hours at a time over the last two years, and has no gauge or sender, second hand oil, second hand filter, and undersize bearing shells with shims to take up the slack. Oil pump of unknown quality, and water in the oil. It rattles momentarily until the oil flow gets going, then it is fine. The vid was taken a couple of years back, and since then it has been given a radiator, as well as some more cutting from the block, and other minor places. Controlling the oil flow was the main problem. I don,t have a clue what any pressure might be, if any. Brian.

DEFINATELY do the bodywork and paint BEFORE anything else.

A guy down here has put a 350 Nissan engine into a 240z. Goes extremely well.

He mentions the strut towers are like new. That is got to be the only thing in it's favour. I would offer $657-75

Brake booster/ master vac, is leaking

Check the firing order/ plug wiring. Sounds as though you may have a couple of wires mixed

The large nut that hold the shocks into the outer housing could be a bit loose. Also some types of suspension bushings can squeek.

Those suckers can be very stubborn. In the absence of a puller--- To loosen it, I found a couple of good whacks with a hammer on the side of the outer part with its opposite side on a hard surface e.g.(strong vice) can help, and then beat the threaded end. FWIW

IMHO. The diff is still attached to half the bar, and could be still driven, albeit very carefully and avoid any hills on your drive home. Of course a transport or tow is really the way to go.

Loose or dirty ignition wire. Check all the connections to and from the coil and dizzy. Give any spade connectors a gentle squeeze with some pliers, and shove them back on.

Elaine. Thats a fine looking car. $18k-$25k dollars here in NZ. Don't let anyone tell you it's 'just an old car' If it is rust free as you say it is, then a buyer is many thousand $ ahead right there.

I fitted door weatherstrip to my 240Z some 13 years ago, procured from Victoria British, now Black Dragon. It is the solid soft rubber type of seal. The doors were very tight to close, and still are to some degree, although they have eased over the years, and are now OK for me. I thought at the time, that was how they were supposed to be. Am i correct in thinking the 260Z was factory fitted with different weatherstrip to overcome this problem? The type with a hole rather than being the solid squishy rubber as the 240Z.

Yes, a good idea to get professionals to install the glass. It is possible to remove it again,but a little tricky, and best left to professionals. It involves gentle firm pressure from the inside, and lifting the inner lip with a tool for the purpose. To paint the hatch without removing the glass, you can lift the OUTER lip with a screwdriver, and run some thick string under the outer lip to raise the rubber, then mask the rubber as normal. This way you can make a tidy job of painting slightly under the rubber. You might find the corners will need some extra short bits of string stuffed under there to lift the lip.

Well thats good news. Congratulations.

You would not want to leave your hatch in primer for too long. It will rust. Get some finish coat on there, even from a rattle can. Paint the whole hatch before you put the glass back in. Do you know how to put the glass back in?