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Hey Goose52 , thanks for sharing that with us. What a wonderful history you have with the car.

I had to read this a couple of times to figure it out. Some punctuation would help.

This is it Jan. If you do this, it is not too difficult, and no removing cam shaft as I read somewhere. If you are using virtually no oil, don't touch anything. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/seals.html Cheers, Brian.

Yes Jan, The valve seals can be replaced withought removing the head. I have done it, and it's not too difficult. However, i would not be rushing to do this for no reason. My car was using around a litre every 1000 miles. It would smoke occasionally, but moreso after coasting down hill, and then accelerating away at the bottom. This would result in a good puff of smoke. I did this many times to try to pinpoint the problem. After I did the seals the oil consumption has reduced to almost nill. If you need info it is available somewhere here, or we can help you. It involves either a compressor blowing into the cylinder, or stuffing the cylinder with nylon cord. All these are for is to hold the valves closed. Also needed is a lever device to compress the valve springs. I made mine. I used the compressor method, but I had to make a fitting to screw into the plug hole to attach the air hose.

Dismantle, evaluate, and make new parts as required.

I'm with EScanlon. While your in there extend the cowl drain tube to the bottom. Some plastic plumbing bends and some plastic or rubber tube. Can't remember the size.

A forum member from US and his lovely wife visited down here a few months back. Mike as well.

I have a 3.54 with five speed. It makes for quite a lazy cruisin' ride, but still has enough go for me. I seldom use fifth gear. Fourth at 100 km/60 mph is 3000 rpm.which is in good zone for passing. Down shift to third and it goes really well. Fifth at 100km/60 mph is around 2600 rpm.

I love any car that can drive for thousands of miles withought needing a wrench, is comfortable and not too thirsty. I turned off to that guy after around 60 seconds, but flicked to the end to see if anything actually happened, apart from his flapping mouth. :sick:

If it can lay rubber, and runs well I would not worry unduly.

I believe we are just trying to give some sensible advice to a member here. He did not say it was a track car, so I assumed it was a street car. Most, if not all of us would know full well why a car body is seam welded. Still doesn't make it a clever idea for a street car IMHO. The car has survived 40 years withought the seams welded. We also all know these cars are prone to rust, so why seam weld and risk creating more.

Everwhere you weld is another place for rust to start between the panels. I'm not a fan of dipping either. I know of two zeds that rusted away after acid dipping. .

The front and rear springs are slightly heavier, and make a good replacement for the 240 springs, if cut to the correct length. There is probably a sway bar under the rear as well, which should bolt straight on to your 240.The fitting holes are already there. (At least they were on my 240)

There are lots of people who like to horde stuff--anything. I visited a guy near Auckland airport 30 years ago who had a paddock full of old cars and WW2 military trucks. Tried to engage in conversation, but was told to f@#k off. They are still there rotting into the ground . Such a shame.

I had this same problem, and the front brakes were locking. If I released the master front bleeder it was OK for a while. The problem was the master cylinder. Perhaps you could try your original master cylinder to isolate the problem.

Maybe the clutch needs bleeding again. Could be air in the system.

Strange that it's doin' it when hot. Otherwise these are classic symptoms of a clutch failing to disengage properly. Slave cylinder or master cylinder seals, or low clutch fluid. These are my first thoughts.

Quite normal from lack of oil changes I would guess.

Sadly not yet down here.

Rustproof is a must.

Won't hurt, but might fume and smell in the car.

Read my post again.-- Valve guide SEALS.--- These are small rubber cups that fits over the top of the valve guides, to prevent oil from being sucked past the valve stem. They can indeed be replaced withought removing the head.

Hi DJ. Does your new toy smoke on the overun, like when you accelerate after coasting down hill. Could be valve guide seals, which in an engine of that mileage will surely need replacing. If the engine is running strong otherwise, then this could well be the reason for using oil. Valve guide seals can be replaced withought removing the head. I replaced mine and went from 1.5 litres per 1000km to virtually zilch.

I had a leak that was difficult to pinpoint. Turned out to be the gasket in the front cover was weeping water into the timing area.