olzed

I did similar some years back, only the braid was rotten, so I hit it with the waterblaster and blew the fabric off. The hose under looks like new. haa Yes. STENTS. I have a couple.

Solder the wire on. Good to go.

If you want more chuckability you could always fit power steering.

After I had my 240 refreshed and resprayed in a vibrant red, I drove it with no badging for a while. One day wife and I pulled up at a viewing spot over Auckland City, and some Asian people stopped beside us. Two younger guys headed straight for my car, and ignoring us, they looked at our rego sticker, which gives car make. I heard one say. 'I thought it was European' Had them fooled for a minute.

Try some Moreys product.

Amazing. Only an hour ago I removed the window from my 240 to get at the door handle, and cleaned up and greased this very same nylon runner.

Before you go dismantling the speedo drive, you may be able to just replace the whole unit. I think all the speedo drives are interchangable. But then I may be wrong. I have changed only a few. .

Thats right hand drive. Those Aussie chicks are OK.

Sorry to here of your crap weather there Andrew. Down here we are having the best Autumn ever. Three weeks of glorious sunshine. We just came out of a so so summer though. Sounds as though your carbs are lean. Needles??? Altitude,Yes. Sooty plugs from slow running test is not conclusive. Brian.

Targa tops on a 240 would be something else.

Just to be sure. Did you rotate the crank through the whole cycle and watch the ALL the valves moving. Before you go ripping off the head.

Your concern is unwarranted. The pinion shaft is slightly offset in the body allowing for different size pinions, by rotatong the whole body.

A Datto in the Ford museum!!!??

Find a used one.

Yeh I'm assuming he would have figured that. It would be pretty hard to bend a valve by turning the cam by hand. But then I guess it depends on the size of the arm and the wrench . I have a 24inch that would do it. Wrench I mean.

To turn the cam with the head removed you can put a wrench on an area of the cam that has a couple of flats cast on it. If the cam lobes are rusty, don't turn the camshaft. Are you saying you want to change all the engine gaskets and you havn't had the engine running yet. Why? Is there evidence of oil leaks.? There may be no oil leaks. Before ripping out fuel lines to replace them,you need to first verify if they are indeed rusty on the inside surfaces. They may be fine.

Regarding NPT threads leaking. I tried thread tape on NPT and BSP hydraulic fittings, many times, but always went back to using hemp. I owned and worked on excavators for 30+ years, and always used plumbers hemp on tapered thread fittings. Just a few strands teased out and wound around,to half fill the thread, will give a fitting that can be tightened into a position that suits, and will not leak with pressure in excess of 2000 psi. Thread tape seems to compress too much and gives a not too positive feel when tightening the fitting. If you are using a bend that has to finish in a certain position, hemp will give you that ability, and can even be backed out a little and still not leak. Thread tape will be cut into a useless mess when the fitting is screwed in, whereas hemp fills the thread and will not be squeezed out. I still have a bundle of hemp that I use when the need arises. It's 'old school' but still does the job. FWIW Brian.

Found it.http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/oilpumpshaft2.jpg

The timing links have to line up with the timing marks on the sprockets. Is the chain still on? This will make it easier if it is. If not. Ideally the head should be off, but,if not, first remove all the plugs. To establish number one TDC carefully turn the crank till the key at the crank snout is at 12 oclock. The cam lobes on number 1 cylinder should be at a position so they look like a pair of lazy rabbit ears If the crank meets resistance it will be the valves hitting pistons, so you may need to turn the cam at the same time, carefully. Once having established the crank sprocket at TDC. And the cam a described, you can fit the chain. You should have 22 links including both marked ones, facing the exhaust side of the engine. Fit the chain on the crank sprocket aligning the mark on the chain with the mark on the sprocket. Fit the cam sprocket with the mark on the chain aligning with the number 1 mark on the cam sprocket. Fit the sprocke tto the camshaft and bolt it on. Fit the tensioner and guides. Rotate the crank to see if the valves are stuck, and nothing hits. Fit cover. Align dizzy shaft mark with mark on oil pump in your first picture. fill pump with oil, and install oil pump. Tang on shaft should be at around 11-30 oclock position,when viewed at dizzy mounting position, or around 5 degrees from a line drawn through the mounting holes. There is a picture of this on here somewhere, but I can't find it. Have I left anything out? Fit dizzy and plugs, wiring etc. She should start, if you get the plug wires in correct position. Firing order 153624

I seem to remember there was a linkage made that went some way to fixing the jerky feel of the 240 throttle . I think it altered the ratio somehow. Does anyone know of this.

On my 72 I have Konis with cut stock springs at the front, and cut 260 springs at the rear. On the lowest setting the Konis are quite OK Any higher they give a pretty firm ride.

They missed a few. Hows about Toyota Will Cypha. Nissan Emina. To name just a couple.

I can't enlarge your picture, but I think -- The screw with the elipse head is for adjustment of the points gap

Hey that looks pretty darn good. But two months ??:classic:

Hey there. Now that looks to be a good find. More pictures?