olzed

Thanks Bruce. I wondered why someone would bother putting these on a 240 manifold, unless it was a replacement for the flat tops. Some good information there Blue. When I am fully awake I will read it fully. Thanks. Brian.

I have a pair of Birmingham manufactured SUs on a 240 manifold. Their serial numbers are AUD 425F and AUD 425R. Any one know what they are origionally off.

Never heard of Nevr-Dull Chris. We are limlted to what we get here. I was thinking of an acid, but not sure which. I should have just drank the Coke.:stupid:

Jetaway.The buttress on the neck vanished when I turned it off in my lathe, and they look shiny after a good polish, also in the lathe. The manifold and carbs were pretty cruddy, and I have been trying to spruce them up for a week. Soaked in everything I could think of, even coca cola for three days. I ended up with a lick of silver paint, dabbed on with a brush, and wiped it off. Does'nt work so well on the smooth casting, but on the rough stuff, its great. Brian. Edit the Coca Cola myth is a myth. I had a rusty nail soaking as well and nothing happened.

Carbs. 1 5/8 inch at the intake throat. Tags screwed to each float bowl reads. AUD 425 F---AUD 425R

Yes, I'm thinking they are not correct for the 240. The area at the top of the dash pot where the little plunger goes is tapered. The same area on my 72 Hitachi round tops is straight. I thought there was something different with the setup. The linkage between the two has been altered slightly. Shortened I think. I'm guessing someone has replaced these for the flat tops. It will be interesting to see how they perform. They will be bolted to a stationary engine that idles on three cylinders, so as long as they are look good and run i'm happy. Pictures shortly.

I have a spare pair of SUs on a 240Z manifold. They appear to look correct except the name. They have both got the name 'SU Carburettors Birmingham England' on the top of the float bowls. Were other SUs made with the four stud mounting flange.? Are they 240Z carbs?

Job well done;)

Heres a good picture of the dizzy shaft at TDC http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/oilpumpshaft2.jpg

As the rotor turns counterclockwise it delivers a spark to each wire in turn. So the dizzy wire to the left of #1 will go to plug #5, then #3, then #6, then #2, then #4. So the firing order is 153624

Whats the car? Carb's. Could be a linkage issue.

You have the plug wires wrong. # five would be firing on it's exhaust stroke. Would'nt run at all well. When piston #1 is at TDC, the rotor should point towards your left headlight , and that is where #1 plug wire should be. Put that wire in the correct place, then redo the rest of the wires to the correct firing order. Repeating what zedhead said, "the rotor turns counterclockwise." When both cam lobes on #1 are pointing up like ears, you are on compression stroke.

Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

How are you determining TDC, to figure the pully is off. How far do you think it is off.? To establish TDC.--- Turn the crank clockwise until #1 piston is at the top of the bore, and both the cam lobes on #1 cylinder are pointing up like ears. Both valves will then be closed. Turn the crank till the mark on your pulley aligns with the 0. This will be TDC. Edit. You can also determin TDC by aligning the cam timing marks through the hole in the top pulley. Always turn the crank clockwise to allow for chain slack. If you go past the marks, then turn the crank back and start over.

Sounds like KNEESARN to my ears. Any way it doesn't matter a toss as long as we understand each other EH. I would have thought MARZDA and MAHZDA sound the same though.

Are you sure it's not a leak from the filler hose?

Yes. Good advice from beerman.And refer to the the Haynes manual. Don't rush. Line up the marks on the pump and the shaft, and you need to keep the pump and its shaft in the correct alignment as you install it.You need to keep the pump straight as you install, so the shaft can enter through its guide hole. If you are not happy when you look at the position of the tang at the top, pull the pump and do it again.

NZ pronunciation is DAT like RAT CAT BAT THAT SPAT Also NISSAN in NZ is pronounced like MISS ANN. Not the American pronunciation NEESARN. MAZDA sounds like MAZDA as in JAZZda Not MAWZDA or MARZDA I wonder how the makers say the names?:classic:

Good stuff.

Yes, good advice.

Don't panic. You can do this. It's really not too difficult. Haynes manual will get you there. Edit error previous post. Should have read 22 link plates including the painted ones. 20 link plates between the painted ones.

You can still turn either the crank or the cam but do it slowly and if you feel resistance, stop. If your new chain does not have any 'bright links' , then you need to--put a dob of paint,white is good, on a link, then, including that link, count 22 links and paint that link. Then get #one piston at TDC. This will put a small centre punch mark on the crank sprocket at about 3 oclock. Hold the timing chain out and notice 24 spacings and white marks need to be to your right. With this in mind, fit the cam sprocket to the chain, lining the number 1 timing mark on the sprocket with the top paint mark on the chain. Then fit the chain around the bottom sprocket, so the bottom paint mark on the chain, lines with the mark on the crank sprocket. Then fit the cam sprocket to the nose of the camshaft. There is a small mark in the top cutout of the sprocket. It should line up with a mark on the plate behind the sprocket. If this all lines up, that is your cam timing done. Fit the adjuster and guide. Bolt everything up. Then oil pump and dissy timing.

Don't turn the crank without the timing chain in place. The pistons will hit some of the valves.

There is some provision for moving the cam sprocket to the number 2 position. What is the condition of the sprockets. Do they looked hooked at the bottom of the teeth?

Good idea.