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Before retiring a couple of years ago, I used to run a diesel excavator, and used the diesel engine oil in both our cars with no ill effect. One old Toyota I bought with 150,000 km on it as a work hack, had a rattley timing chain. As time went buy and the km increased the chain noise went away. (If it was coincidence, or the diesel oil cleaning out the oil galleries I will never know. I eventually drove it to Pic a Part with 260,000km on the clock, and picked up $250 bucks for it. ( The body was starting to rust away, but the engine still ran like a watch) I have never tried ATF added but might give it a crack in my 240 before the next oil change.:bulb: A litre should not thin down the oil to much. I had a tractor that had a fault with the injector pump, and leaking diesel straight into the crankcase, thinning the oil something awful. It did no damage to the engine, although the oil pressure was very low. Brian

Hi all. I have a friend who has restored a 1980 ZXCoupe. He is having trouble locating a rear hatch glass rubber seal. Thats the one that holds the stainless strip. Are these likely available anywhere.? Thanks. Brian.

Wow thats a darn Sarah. Don't know about these new fangled fuel injected Zeds:) but on a carbed engine, the clattering fuel pump you describe would point to fuel starvation,as you would know. Zed might have 'hit the nail on the head.' Brian.

Yes to that. It's Anzac day down here today and raining as always seems to be the case on Anzac day. It's our Poppy day. Anzac day is our day to remember those men and women from Australia and NZ who gave all in the worlds conflicts. Brian.

Never seen that before----

The point is Sergio, that you probably don't need to waste good dollars on another pan, when it will have exactly the same distortion at each bolt hole, as your own one has. The gasket you have sounds just fine. Thicker is good.

Cool. Does your neighbour still have the hub caps for those steel wheels?

Sergio. You still trying to get that thing fixed. I would bet ALL oil pans have some warping to them where the bolts tighten. If the 'mechanic' tries to get a seal on an area like this without using a cork gasket, he is a fool. Find a new mechanic, or---do the job yourself. Its really not hard, and, you might learn something. A few light blows with a hammer, and check with a straight edge and you can fix the warped pan . It can only be bent where the bolt holes are. Use a gasket. Thats why Nissan fitted one in the first place.:bulb: Brian.

I'm not sure what type of filler was used when my job was done first. It obviously was not correct. Technology in all fields has come a long way since then. I wish I had done some research, but I assumed the panel guys new all the problems. On thinking back, they may have left the metal bare for too long before filling and priming. If you have researched this then i'm sure you will be fine. BTW your work looks spot on .

Cozye. Job looks good. A couple of points--- 11 years ago ,I had my 240 stripped to bare metal, and some repair work was done and bogged onto bare metal as you have done. Repainted with 2 pack red. The car looked amazing for a number of years, and was much admired. It won me many awards. Over time small marks started to appear on the paint in the most odd places, like in the middle of the hood, the top of the doors etc. It is in the shop at the moment and the guy doing the work says each tiny mark is rust, caused by a skim of bog that was applied over BARE metal. Apparently is is the old method of doing this. He says the metal should be primed first. I don't know with what type of primer, but someone will. ---Where the bog is thicker it doesn't seem to be a problem---yet. To say I am gutted would be putting it mildly.:disappoin Wish I had seen your thread on this sooner.

What was the PO thinking. Those tail lights look like the rear end of a Motorhome.:classic:

Zed Head's idea sounds the go.

Do the headlights still work. Does the horn work. If not, then more than likely you have a dead battery.:bulb:

I am at a loss to understand why they would not fit a gasket to the pan when you requested they do so, and you supplied the gasket. Why would Nissan fit a gasket in the first place if it was not needed. Get a second opinion.!!! Brian.

Nice job Logan. Good to see you are recycling the kitchen chair.

AZ- 240Z I have Konis in the front of my 72. I run them on the very softest damping setting as they are too firm otherwise.

Well, that the first time I have heard of anyone doing that.

Why pull them apart again. As Zed Head said. They are interchangable. Or have you tried to put them both the same way up???? Brian.

I would be cautious using silicone where it has to be applied thick to effect a seal, as on an out of true oil pan. It can extrude in to the motor, and there is the risk of it getting sucked into the oil galleries. I had this on a Massey Ferguson tractor engine a few years back. Use a gasket. Brian.

My bet is Gearbox/ transmission bearings. Unscrew the bung from the bottom of the tranny and let some oil into a clean container. Just a little. No need to drain it all.(You may get some up your arm) Whack the plug back in. Check the contents of your container for metal particles. The oil should be spotless. If not---- Brian

Yes to the grazes. A couple of plasters is all you will need. Make sure you unscrew the nut the correct way, and don't overtighten it. Brian

As Nissanman said, you can get at the speedo cable without taking out the dash .Tight but it is possible. Don't remove the dash just for this.

It's great when a plan comes together. Nice result!!

I echo others sentiments. MSA for me. I have imported from them on a number of occasions, and found the service second to none. Four days to to my door in NZ. We can't get local deliveries any faster.I own what I consider a rare car (72 240) and don' mind paying a bit extra to be able to source parts for it. Brian