olzed

Well, I guess apart from 240 and 260 being scarce in my part of the world, we are fairly lucky with the climate. Summers are not tooo hot and where we live we don't get snow, although it's very wet in winter. I keep the Z garaged and covered to keep my crack free dash, I hope, crack free. After washing the 240, I use my wifes dog blower to dry off the car. This thing is like a vacuum cleaner on blow, only more. Resto 10 years ago, and so far no rust.

3500 is a bloody bargain down here mate. You did well.

It's very easy to tell the difference between the carbs. Flat top is just that, the other type have a definate rounded edge. At a guess, your 'friend' has increased your idle. The car was idling OK before he fiddled.:stupid:

It's nice to find a bargain occasionally. $100 dash---thats great. I wish there were 240s lying in parts yards in NZ.

Don't know about injected petrol engines, but I had a Massey Ferguson diesel tractor that when the filters were dirty would gain revs, just before it coughed to a stop. I learned to change the filters more often.:stupid:

Well, Its settled then. We are all wrong. Its ZEDD. Not Zed or zee.

Wow, bumpy ride is right. Before you get too far into this one keep an open mind about a more sound example. I think you will find heaps of rust you havn't yet discovered. People are trying to stear you gently away from going down a route that we have most done before. I once built one old car from two old cars and for me it was a total waste of effort and money. Almost anything can be rebuilt, but you need a heap of dosh to do it properly. Yes I agree with Geezer. more pictures would be helpful.

I guess when all is said and done, as long as we understand each other is what really matters. Hood or bonnet, trunk or boot, wrench and spanner, rockers and tappets.the list is long. :classic:

I would suspect that what you can't see elsewhere is similar to your pictures. This one will take lots of dedication , time and DOLLARS to put right. Perhaps use this one to learn on, and when you are earning better and got yourself sorted, look at getting a Z that is in better condition. It is always best to start with a sound car if at all possible. Have patience, you have years ahead. I first wanted a 240 when I was 35, but didn't manage it till I was 55.

Ham Radio!! My deceased father in law call sign was ZLIALH. To me thats a ZED.

Wow thats a nice job. Good onya.

A simple way to check the four wheels for toe in or out. Run a strong string around the four wheels, making sure the steering is straight ahead of course. I used to do this to align the wheels on motorbikes, and have found it good on my 240. Just tie off one end to one of the bumper bars or whatever and walk around the car with the string, keep it tight and in line on all the wheels, and tie off the other end on something suitable. You can see at a glance if anything is wrong.

On the subject of headlight switches. A couple of years ago my light switch on my 72 240 became faulty and my first thoughts were to pull the thing apart and look inside it. Before taking the switch off the car, I thought to check in my Haynes manual. They said that none of the switches was repairable, so I ordered one in from MSA. When it arrived in NZ, which only took four days, by the way, the total including freight was $700. Exchange rate and all that. Anyway after taking off the old switch, and expecting to toss it in the bin, I had a bit of a look at it and noticed a small cover screwed on to it, so promptly took that off. I discovered that inside one of the small nylon spring loaded plungers had worn away. I fashioned another from a piece of plastic knitting needle, put a touch of lube where needed, and she works like a charm. Brand new switch sitting in my parts draw--- I can highly recomend one of Daves headlight relay upgrade. Works great. Just a couple of screws, plug the wires in, and you will be sweet. Brian

Yes it could well do that .If the contacts in the solenoid are badly burnt, you can get intermittent turning of the starter and engine, or as you call it "cranking". Get the starter checked first, then go on to the engine problems.

Yep, the last two sound on the money. Once the car is running, your starter has NO bearing on how well the motor runs. Sounds like a crook starter as well as other issues. Probably crap in the fuel lines, and filter.

Hey. Thats great that you stuck to it and got that stud out. This is just amazing, reading what you get stuck into. Good on you. Go Girl:classic:

Get a car with carbs, IMHO. Since body refresh and interior 10 years ago, we have done over 20,000 miles, and our 240 has never let us down. Two weekends ago we did a weekend trip of 1,000 miles. Love the old Zed. As Bruce says AA is a great idea as well. We have comprehensive, which means they transport your car home as well as you, and put you in a motel for a night. Well worth it

My question would be IF it has only done 77,000 miles, why did the engine need to be rebuilt. I would doubt those miles. My 72 Z has 120,000 and the motor is untouched apart from valve guide seals, uses no oil, and still goes strong. If the car is going to be your daily driver, expect to spend some dollars to keep it on the road. The electronics would be my biggest concern. Read the problems others have with that.

Does anyone know if all the rear hatches on an early and later 240 are the same. My 72 has an earlier hatch which fits the body perfectly, but where the hinges are there is a gap caused by a dip in the body to accomodate the hinges. This results is a gap between the hatch and the rubber about quater inch wide at this point.

I would think the return line would enter the tank and finish short. If you had some liquid in the tank you should be able to tell which line goes further to the bottom.Perhaps blow in the lines, or suck, whichever takes your fancy, as long as you don't swallow.

More on exhaust smell entering the cabin. On my 72 240 I had done all I could think of to try to remedy this, but it still persisted with the window down. Looking further, I noticed the area where the hatch compresses against the rubber along where the two hinges are, is two different profiles. The hatch rim is straight trying to seal against the rubber thats attached to the flange where the hinges are. At this area the body and the rubber takes a dip down to accomodate the hinges.There was a gap of quater inch wide and five inches long. I stuck on to the hatch sealing area at this point two pieces of self adhesive sponge strip about 6 inches long, at each hinge point. The gassing with the window down has ceased. Surely the vehicle wasn't made new like this with a hatch that did not conform to the body shape. I know this hatch is not origional to the car, as it had the rear vents from an earlier model. It fits perfectly apart from the sealing area where the hinges are. Are the early hatches different in this area?

So, Did the man cure his leaky carb?

Im assuming origional carbs and engine. What type of fuel pump.Does it still have the fuel return line which leaks excess fuel back to the tank? Might be a leaky float valve in the carb or float level set wrong.

You should get that response in writing. Some insurance agents have a habit of bending the facts to get another client. I have had some misadventure with insurance agents.:stupid:

Nice job. Mine took 12 months to get to that stage. Lazy paintshop