olzed

Its a fair bet that if the guy driving the 240z, had laid the new surface of the carpark, he wouldn't have defaced it the way he did. I bet he's defaces others property with grafiti as well:stupid:

Also:love:

Love the rims. Don't change a thing apart from cosmetic.

Followed this with some interest. This would have to be one of the most rust free 240s iv'e seen . Great job.

I have seen a 240 red interior that was resprayed with good quality black vinyl spray from rattle cans 12 years ago and still looks great. With some masking and care it can be done for very little cost.

Nice tidy car. Always liked a 240 in silver.!!!

Hard to tell from pics ,looks tidy,but a red interior is not my choice.: You guys are so lucky in US with so many 240Zs to choose from. A 240 is a wise choice.

Cracked the bleeders? I'm sure he hasn't a clue what you mean.!!! Do you mean ---Try loosening the bleed nipples located on each brake cylinder .

Thats a nifty looking tool, but I can't see how you would get enough leverage to shift a tight nut-:stupid: Do I miss something here-is there another part to it?----I use standard wrenches and turn the motor with a socket on the crank bolt, although the fan can mess your fingers if your careless

Thats 8-10 grand down here.Good onya.

If the wheel still moves when you grab and shake at 12-6 it's a wheel bearing or could be a bad bottom ball joint. 9-3 shake could be a wheel bearing, as well as other steering issues .Get someone to wobble the wheels while you look.You would notice a bad wheel bearing with quite an easy shake.Don't overtighten the bearing or you can cook them.I usually tighten mine till there is no wobble perhaps a notch more.Iv'e never had a bearing problem doing this.40 years ago I stuffed both front bearings in a VW from overtightening. From your description,I would suspect a bad tie rod end ,inner or outer.

I have been trying to remove the steering wheel from my 1972 240, so that I can refurbish it. Its got me beat.It won't move. Iv'e tried tapping it from the back while pulling it, but don't want to damage it.An old Corrolla I once owned had threaded holes so you could attach a puller but this has nothing. Any ideas anyone.??

Chris.You need to go away for a while and try and grow up a little.I and most others couldn't care less if you kill yourself, but it sounds as though you are heading down the track where you will take others with you. I just hope you are joking .Try joining a car club ,learn some common sense, and do your high speed driving on a race track somewhere.:stupid::stupid:

Yes ,a left hand rack can't be used in RHD, and no it cant be turned end for end. I am trying to source a new or second hand RHD rack.Thanks for the input:cool:

Does anyone know if the s30 steering rack is available anywhere,and at what cost?

Have you tried just removing each spark plug lead in turn so obviously when that cylinder isn't firing there is little load on it.If its a wrist pin the noise should decrease or stop.

Have you tried increasing the idle?650-700

If you raced it and it's no worse ,can't be too serious.Could it be side movement in one of the rockers-probably a long shot.In my experience,a higher pitched tapping is from the rockers.If you ran the engine with each spark plug out in turn,and the tap remains,I would doubt a wrist pin would be the noise.

Can anyone tell me are the 240 and 260 steering racks interchangable? They appear to be identicle,although I believe the ratios are different. The reason I am asking is I have a spare 260 rack and a mate wants to buy it for a 240. What would it be worth ? As they dont appear to be available I don't want to GIVE it away, also dont want to rip the guy off. Thanks for any info.

Hope you and hubby got that car home O.K ZGRLL!!

Hoses always a problem. I noticed 10 years ago when I was giving my 240 a makeover that as I put the water blaster over the heater hoses which were on the ground,the already tacky braid started to come off ,so I blew it all off.While its not the perfect solution, it improved the appearance a lot. Now that hoses are available with braiding ,I must think about replacing them.They look great! Would you post to NZ Esprist And how much US for the whole set ?i.e. radiator and heater.

I have been running an electric pump on my 240 for 10 years. I removed the pump arm that connects the cam,and routed the fuel through the mechanical pump so it looks origional. Not even show judges have spotted the change. From memory I cut a full gasket to stop any leakage of gas or oil.

Yes . Some spelling and punctuation would help.Very hard to read otherwise.

Hi! I had a similar problem with my 240,with 2.4 motor. It occured after I had changed the water pump. On first start up the engine seemed to get hot too quickly so I shut it off,to let it cool ,then started it with the engine side heater hose loose and the radiator cap off. With the hose loose and me refilling with water ,and then tightening the hose with the engine still running ,I managed to purge the system of air,and that fixed the issue.Just watch you don't drown the alternator,as they dont like water.

Correct! You will be able to move each rocker ,and should have some clearance in each one in turn, as you rotate the crank shaft by hand. Some will be tight and others loose depending where in the cycle the crank and camshaft are at that moment.Get a spanner on the pulley nut and turn the crank from there,and you can watch the cam rotate, opening various valves.When the valve is in the open position the rocker will be under tension .When the valve is closed there is no tension on the rocker so you should be able to move it.Get a home workshop manual pertaining to your car and it will help.You can check the rocker clearance yourself if you own some feeler guages,and no it's not the side to side clearanceyou check. The rocker clearance/tappet clearance/valve lash(all the same thing) is .008-.010 inch,or .20mm-.25mm on a cold 240 or 260 motor(don't know about 280 but i'm guessing the same) Rotate the crank until you can see the lowest part of the cam(the heel) against each rocker in turn.That is the position where each one becomes loose,and the same position where you do any checking or adjusting.See the two nuts one above the other,These are the adjusting nuts and this is where you slide the feeler guage.