akzbob

Thanks for the advice! I work on getting a new one ordered. bob

Folks, I would like your suggestions on an ignition coil. I have 78 280Z that is running fine, but am considering replacing the coil due to the fact that I'm sure the coil is the original one and is showing some rust spots. Would you suggest replacing with an OEM coil or one of the 'hotter' coils? Thoughts? I appreciate any comments. Bob

I'm repainting my Black Pearl and am wondering about the pin stripe. I've search past posts and found something in 2009 regarding a pin stripe kit that once was available. Does anyone know if this available anywhere or should I just paint the stripes on? Any help would be appreciated.

Both, thank you.

How about the rubber bumper ends?

Thanks for all the responses! As Unkle stated, the center caps do rotate freely and are in excellent shape. So much to learn about the history of the Z. My hiking buddy bought a new 240 in the early 70's and I can remember what a great car and ride it was! Thanks for all the info. bob

Thanks for the information. I debating whether to put them on my 78, sell them or? Appreciate the information. This is a awesome site! Appreciate all the help from everyone and the quick responses.

Purchased my second Z, a 1977 280 Z with Enkei wheels as shown in the picture. Can anyone fill me in about these? Are they an aftermarket wheel or are they stock? Appreciate your input!

I just purchased my 2nd Z, a 1977 280Z, and the po stated he could not get it started. Once getting it home, I removed the number one plug and cranked the engine until piston #1 was at TDC. In removing the distributor cap the rotor is pointing to approximately where #6 fires. I changed all the wires to match this and the engine started right up. I pulled the distributor thinking I could rotate it 180 degrees to get the firing order as stated in the FSM. The base of the distributor is not 'centered' therefore it will only fit one way. Does this mean that the timing chain is off 180 degrees or am I missing something? Could I leave it as is? Thanks for any ideas!

I've ordered from both MSA and BD. Both work well with shipping to Alaska and I know that BD stands behind their products and has an excellent return policy. I had purchased a set of weatherstripping for my doors, unfortunately they did not fit well and they refunded my money even after the install and left on the doors for a couple of months. (Seeing if they would seal correctly).

Just finished installing new rear struts and bushings. I'm looking at painting the rear brake drums and am wondering if I should use high temp paint or just a good rust preventative spray paint? I know that the brakes can get hot, but is it hot enough to cause regular spray paint burn? Thanks for any help. 1978 280Z coupe.

I suppose it could be a circulating tank heater, but most tank heaters have a larger electrical connector. I'll pull it apart for a better look.

Here is another photo.

I'm getting ready to replace my lower radiator hose and when I was checking where it ran to, I came across this part which I had not noticed before. I've attached a picture so that you may see what I'm asking about. It appears to be a valve of some sort, but nothing is attached to it. I've looked in the FSM, but it doesn't mention anything. What is it and should it be connected to something? My car has been running fine and will probably bypass it unless someone says otherwise. Thanks for any help! 1978 280Z

Jimmy, I welded mine on after I had the pans in place in the vehicle. I don't see why you couldn't weld them in place first unless you need them to be somewhat flexible to get the pans in place. I'm sure others will have some thoughts on this. Bob

Got it off, had to cut it off. :classic: I've attached a picture and you can see where it was stripped.

Yes, I have marked the shaft on the flat side of the D, and marked the nut and then turned in 1/4 of a turn. The nut is turning and the shaft is not. Still, I would assume with the pressure from the spring, it would help push the nut up, but it did not. Cutting it off tonight, hopefully. With extreme care of course. Bob

Thanks for the tips. Fortunately I do have a good memory, unfortunately it is very short! I'll make sure the spring compressors are secure and that there is no pressure on the nut! bob

I tried again last night w/o any luck. I can turn the nut easily and also see that the shaft is not turning. Even with pressure from the strut insulator mount, it will not come out. The nut must be stripped and it looks like I will need to cut it off. Dremel comes out tonight as I don't think that I can get a nut cracker in there. Bob

Thanks for the advice! I first tried the air impact wrench and that may have stripped the nut, but will know more if I get it off. I may have to resort to a 'Nut Cracker'. Bob

I'm trying to get the strut nut off and it just spins, not going up nor down. Any ideas of how to get it off? Should I decompress the springs to add some pressure or ?? I can see the nut turn inside the strut mount insulator, without the strut turning. Any ideas would be appreciated. 1978 Z coupe. Thanks, bob

Greetings! I've been looking for information/parts/etc for cloth covered door panels. My 78 280z has cloth door panels and so far all the posts that I have seen show vinyl. Was cloth special or ? Thanks for any information you may be able to provide. bob

I went to Lowes and found some plugs that fit fine. I installed them with some silicon and so far they have been holding up well. bob 1978 280Z Alaska