wilson_wwsc

Figured out what the Y and B/Y wires that the red arrow points to do. These are wires for an electronic fuel pump harness. They run inside to a relay on the passenger footwell area. There is another relay in this harness and an inline fuse located in the center console. I ripped it all out.

Thank you for the information. I now have a good enough understanding on how to get this to work. Only one thing left: are the grey and grey/blue wires coming out the back of the deck into a 3 socket female connector (along with fused blue wire) the speaker wires? Anyone know which is ground and which is positive, or are they interchangeable? And is the red/blue wire for illumination?

All helpful info. The reason why I'm sticking to the stock radio is because I will barely be able to hear it anyways (v8 240z). Since my radio works and my antenna works, I want to keep them working. I'm not looking for amazing sound quality, just a small amp that will power 2 6x9's. As for the antenna, I already have a hidden wire unit in addition to the stock motorized antenna. I want to splice the two antennas together (still haven't figured this one out yet) so that I get good reception when the stock antenna is raised or retracted (I don't want the antenna up all the time). I realize that I could just leave the stock antenna lead unplugged and still have it function (go up and down), but it'd be cool to have it functional. So, I need a line level converter to covert the speaker wire to RCA for the AMP. What wires are the speaker wires from the stock radio? Thanks for everyone's help so far.

Do you know where these harness are available? I don't think I'll have too much trouble modifying my harness. The car ran fine before except that the rear left turn signal went out then the rear right turn signal failed. Just want to figure out what these wires do if possible.

build date is 1/73. Vin is 145574. It's possible that the wiring harness comes from a 260z, but I doubt that the guy who did the swap used anther harness. The v8 swap was done a long time ago. There is a BAR sticker on the door jamb identifying the Chevy 327 in the car.

I have a working stock radio in my 73 240z along with a working power antenna in the rear. My question is, can I "splice" in another antenna (say a hidden unit under the dash cover) into the existing antenna? The goal of this would be to get good reception while leaving the power antenna retracted and when I wanted to, I could extend the antenna for giggles, and it would still be functional. Also, can I hook up an amplifier to the stock radio and push sound through two aftermarket speakers? How would the wiring go from radio to amp?

I say it used to be manual because it has the 4 pin throttle opener relay instead of the 6 pin seat belt interlock relay. The car has an automatic v8 swap from the previous owner and now I'm just rebuilding/updating. Both the solid yellow and Y/B wire appear original to the car so I don't think it was a wire added for the swap. I'm thinking that the two R/B and two G wires are for switches/relays associated with an automatic z.

It's not cf or fiberglass. Its just a painted steel bumper. I prepped it really well and painted with satin Rustoleum. In fact, the whole car is rustoleum.

It's not really a mess. I just pulled it apart so that the wires are more visible.

Hi, I'm rewiring my car for a Chevy v8 swap. I've got a lot of it figured out, but need some help. The car is a 1973 car and I think it used to be manual. This first picture is of the main harness below the battery at the firewall: The red arrow is pointing to a solid yellow wire that goes to the voltage regulator plug. It is spliced together with another yellow wire at the plug. I am removing the voltage regulator. This yellow wire comes out of the firewall along with the black/yellow wire which goes to the starter. The two wires are sheathed together. The green arrow points to 4 wires. Two are red/black and two are green all with bullet connectors. These were not hooked up to anything and I don't know what they do and maybe they are extra wires in the harness. They branch off from the main bundle of wires. The orange arrow points to a yellow/black wire. Don't know what it does. I've done my best with looking at various wiring diagrams, including the FSM. Thanks in advance for the help!

I've worked on a lot of different electrical things. It's just that with the v8 conversion that I didn't do myself, the wires, the hybrid, etc get confusing. I looked at a thread on doing LED's a while ago (maybe a year). I'm going to do it soon. I already have electronic flashers, which should solve the problem with the lower wattage LEDs. I was just ranting a little because the lack of light and a decent place where I can get supplies is frustrating. Thanks for the help; I'm going to look that led thread up now. =)

Well, the 3rd fuse on the right side does look like its dead. Fuse is still intact, but one of the metal caps is shifted over a little and I can see signs of some melting or something. This may explain why the park lights worked for a little. The fuse melted back into operable condition I guess? I will need to go to walmart to pick up some of these fuses. I noticed that the fuse in here is a 25amp but the fuse box cover says it should be a 20A. I am frustrated. Electrical stuff that I don't understand is ALWAYS frustrating. It's even worse that I have to work in a parkade with no lights and no outlets. I'm moving into a house with a garage with some friends soon so I will be motivated to work on my Z a lot more. So what is it that I should do to stop this fuse from melting? I reread your posts and the only thing I could come up with is to get LED's? O yeah, it also sucks that I live in LA and I have to wait till traffic is gone to go get any supplies. Then I have work at 6 or 7am so that gives me about a 2hr window to do anything. Still, the compliments I get on my Z and the smile it puts on my face when I'm driving it is WELL worth it.

But when I connect the green blue to green white wire on the switch, the lights don't come on. If the problem was the switch, then this should have worked because there would be power in the green blue wire, and the bridge to the green white wire would complete the circuit, and the lights would turn on. Where does the combo switch get power from? Physically, where is the wire on the engine side?

they dont work anymore =( so can i just put a 12volt fused wire straight from the battery/alternator to the green/blue wire on the combo switch? What amperage fuse would I use?

great now they don't work anymore so can i just put a 12volt fused wire straight from the battery/alternator to the green/blue wire on the combo switch? What amperage fuse would I use?

A long while ago (maybe 6 months) my stock 240z radio, heater/ac fan unit, and console switches(rear window defogger) started acting funny. They would turn on fine after I start the car cold. Then, after about 5-15 minutes of driving, these items would go off. Recently, they are just always off. Then, a few days ago, my driving/parking lights failed. I flipped the combo switch off and on, and the driving lights came back on. Not sure what happened. Then, yestereday, all of the driving/parking lights failed. Fuse box in the car is OK. I found a fused wire leading into the firewall (its not an oem wire I don't think) with the fuse housing broken. I replaced this, and the lights still did not turn on. I took the column cover off and found my 9pin connector. I put a 12v power source to the green/blue wire and the lights worked using the combo switch. Then, I took the power wire off and started my car, flipped the lights on, and was dazzled/amazed/WTF to see that the lights work. What gives?

Sorry for bringing up such an old thread, but I have this exact problem in my 73 240z with the 9pin connector. A lil background: chevy v8, gm 3 wire alternator A long while ago (maybe 6 months) my stock 240z radio, heater/ac fan unit, and console switches(rear window defogger) started acting funny. They would turn on fine after I start the car cold. Then, after about 5-15 minutes of driving, these items would go off. Recently, they are just always off. Then, a few days ago, my driving/parking lights failed. I flipped the combo switch off and on, and the driving lights came back on. Not sure what happened. Then, yestereday, all of the driving/parking lights failed. Fuse box in the car is OK. I found a fused wire leading into the firewall (its not an oem wire I don't think) with the fuse housing broken. I replaced this, and the lights still did not turn on. I took the column cover off and found my 9pin connector. I put a 12v power source to the green/blue wire and the lights worked using the combo switch. Then, I took the power wire off and started my car, flipped the lights on, and was dazzled/amazed/WTF to see that the lights work. What gives?

Can you explain the diagram for the combo switch? I cant tell what color wires do what. Basically, if I provide 12v to the switch, which wires needs power to power driving lights? My headlight circuit works with the white plastic plug unplugged on the headlight switch.

I still dont know where to start looking. Im guessing it something in the engine bay. Where does the combo switch get power from? is there any way I can juse feed 12volt power straight to the switch?

where should my voltange sensor wire for my internal gm 3wire alternator go? right now, my dash map light works, my headlight switch works (they turn on relays for HID ballasts) and my blinkers and hazards work moslty (left rear turn signal does not work when I use left turn signal but works when I use hazards)

I'm having trouble trying to find a place to start. I've been looking at the wiring diagram in my Chilton's but its hard to follow for me. Links to any posts describing the circuit would be great. Thanks

Hi, I have a 73 240z with a chevy v8 in it and a GM 3 wire alternator. The driving lights were running fine for a long time, since I put the new alternator in. Yesterday, my driving lights wouldn't turn on and I flipped the switch again and they worked. Today, the driving lights won't turn on. I also noticed that when I use my left blinker, the rear light (in the taillight) will only blink sometimes. Can anyone please help me find the problem, and where to find it? This is my daily driver. I run HID's on relays, so those still work. Thanks

Hi, I don't know if this is the correct subform, but I have a question about my 1973 240z's fuel system. When I fill up the tank full, it leaks. Not sure where it is coming from; hoping you guys and your infinite Z knowledge could help me figure it out. Also trying to find a fuel flap. I think black dragon has the cheapest price. Thanks!

I will try to do this soon. After replacing the fuse once, I flipped the switch, the wiper motor buzzed for a split second and I heard the fuse pop. Would this be indicative of too much resistance on the motor? Thanks!

Hi, I have a 1973 240z where the wiper fuse keeps blowing. It used to work fine before I put a higher output alternator in. The original power wire is hooked up to the alternator terminal. I also have a 6 gauge wire going from this alternator terminal to a bus bar (terminal where all accessories get power) and from the bus bar to the battery. Where should I check for shorts? Did my wiring job mess something up? Thanks for any help.