wilson_wwsc

Well, with christmas shipping times, I might not be able to get parts for a little while, but here is a sneak peak of what my car looks like: less of a peak than full exposure, but there are some cool things you don't see from this side angle

one more question for now: just to make sure, even if the circuit for #1 breaks (bulb burns out), the alternator would still function? I've never thought of making a leg out of copper tubing! So much cheaper than ordering online! I love making my own things that I don't have to buy at a premium =)

so is the function of # 2 a backup for the situation where indicator lamp blew up? The alternator would stay on even if the starter swtich/lamp failed? That cartoon sure makes it look simple

think this would work as the lower mount? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4050/ I already have something similar to this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4049/ Going to order parts tonight. =) I'm slow, what is the difference between 2 and BAT? 2 goes to the starter, and BAT goes to + terminal on battery?

I agree KISS is good. I go KISS with firearms too. =) According to wiring diagrams, the left most post is E and the on of two terminals in the black part is F. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/image/3169-240z-wiring-diagram/ I still need to figure out which wires I need to keep wired up with a new alternator to keep the car functioning. Thanks for all the help so far. I am piecing this together slowly.

Assuming the alt i have right now is the stock unit, or stock replacement, what does the terminal on the far left, labeled "E" do? Is it where all the negative wires from lights and such go?

Ok, so running a wire directly from the alt to the + terminal on the batt would keep less current on the factory harness than no wire from the alt to the batt, correct? Path of least resistance going on here? I should have paid more attention to circuits in physics.

Thanks for the QUICK responses! I do have relays running the headlights and the fan. The regulator is still there, but the alternators I'm looking at would have an internal volt. reg. I really don't care if the ammeter functions. I'm going to see how hard it is to reach the wiring needed to make it work.

I want to install a higher amperage alternator in my 1973 240z. I am planning on getting a 105amp GM 3 wire internally regulated alternator. I know that the factory harness cannot handle the extra amps. Would it work if I connected the factory harness wire that is currently connected to "a" on the factory alternator to the battery charging terminal to the new alternator and add a wire from the charging post of the new alt. straight to the battery? Where would the factory wire connected to "e" on the fact. alternator go? And do I just insulate the F and N wires?

I actually have an extra moustache bar and diff mount (i think) from a r200 rear end z. I only bought it because I was just looking at those parts at my junkyard, took it off, and thought, well, I already did the work, might as well buy the part.

I have a quick question: Is the suspension from a 71 240z interchangeable with the suspension of a 73 240z? It looks like it will work from what I can tell from my Haynes manual, but I'm not sure. Thanks

where was the one speaker in the 240z?

its a 73 240z. I didn't know there were aftermarket seatbelts for the z's.

So I sat in my passenger side seat, pulled the lap belt across and now it does not retract. Anyone know how to fix this? It was working fine before. I did unbolt the contraption to hide some wires, and then I bolted it back in. Did I mess something up? Thanks, Wilson

Sweet, I will definately stop by when I am back in Sac. Down in LA now for school. its hot down here!

Sup folks, Wilson from Elk Grove (south Sacramento, California) here. Going to school in LA, I've had my Z for 4 years now. It is a 73 240z, with a small block 327 chevy in it. I'm painting and refreshing the car, but I'm still having carburetor problems. So, just saying hi.