akorna

Many threads on the Pertronix install and the option of going with the 1.5 OHM coil w/Resistor or the 3.0 OHM coil w/out the resistor. Tech support at Pertronix recommends the latter (Part 40511) - but this would provide full battery voltage in RUN to the Tach. Does anyone have this set-up and experienced any issues with the stock tach?

Thanks - I had a dwell tach and timing light connected when I fired up. It was over-advanced, so I brought it back to about 10 degrees - may already have a little centrifugal advance, so it's likely around 7-8. The dwell was a little low at 30 degrees, so I may reduce the point gap slightly to increase.

Thanks for the responses - it turned out the major issue with the stalling was due to a sticking/catching breaker plate in the distributor. Replacing the distributor fixed that problem. Now I have to work on the sticking choke (nozzle) on the rear carb.

All, The Autozone distributor arrived - it was complete with vacuum advance, Points and Condensor. For $55 (after returning the core - $40) seems like a good deal. The points were even gapped!. I did have one problem with it - the plastic insert were the point wire connects to the coil feed wire was too tall and it prevented the distributor cap from fitting properly. I removed it and filed it down - not a big deal. The car ran significantly better once I installed it. It no longer dies after blipping the throttle. It will now idle under 1000 rpm. The problem was in fact the BREAKER PLATE on the old distributor. Even though the vacuum advance would operate on the old distributer, the plate was binding and catching. Instead of beginning to advance at 3-4 in" hg, it did not begin until about 10-12 inches, and then it would not react quickly in response to vacuum changes. Next on the agenda is to fix the sticking choke on the rear carb - then some road time and more fresh gas before I do more trouble shooting - hopefully the clutch slave cylinder will be in today.

Appreciate some help here - Still sorting out performance issues w/ my 72 240z - has the stock SU carb set up - air injection system is disconnected and all vacuum ports capped. The car did not have the vacuum motor that controls the throttle opener vacuum dashpot. The car consistently stalls after blipping the throttle, or coming to a stop after driving, but will start back up immediately. Work around is to set idle at 1200 RPM. Does this device need to be operational (slow down throttle closing) to prevent the stalling? If so - where can find the components?

Never saw the resolution to this thread - any coil with a 1.5 Ohm primary resistance that is used with a ballast resistor should work. I'm going to buy a Pertronix ignitor electronic distributer conversion ($70) and a matching Flamethrower Coil ($32) - pretty cheap upgrade.

:ermm:I was checking some resistance and voltage readings as I continue to troubleshoot while waiting on the replacement dizzy - attached a sketch of the test - why would I be getting such low output voltage from the coil - is the coil bad?

OK - I did install the NGK Iridiums and have been doing a lot to the car over the last month - but nothing that solved the issue - still won't idle much below 1000 rpm, and after setting the carb balance and mixture as close as I can, if I rev the engine, and lift off the pedal, the engine stalls or almost stalls. I have 3.5 psi of fuel pressure at the carb and manifild vacuum is a steady 20 in. I finally spent some time with the distributor - (had already installed new points, rotor, cap, condensor) and verified that the vacuum advance mechanism was working with a vacuum pump. What I did notice, that the breaker plate did not always return smoothly to the base setting. I removed the plate and tried to clean and lube, but it was still stiff and inconsistent. The owners records showed that the dizzy was replaced in 1990. I ordered another one at the local Auto Zone. ($55) - would have been in today except for a freak snow storm in Virginia Beach!

Tonight I was fiddling with the carbs and noticed that the after the choke was released, the jets did not move back up into the carb. The rear carb was the worst. I disconnected the linkage and the jet moves smoothly, but the linkage seems like the springs are not working. Maybe I need to move to the carb forum...

Thanks for replying 1. I've put in about 8 gallons of premium, but did not drain the tank or existing fuel. I guess I could disconnect the fuel line and catch a bunch while cranking the engine - then add more fresh fuel 2. What NGK's do you like? 3. Only carb dissasembly I did was remove the suction piston and check out the needle, clean, put in new damper oil

I have a 1972 Z w/manual, stock distributor, three screw hitachis that I recently purchased. Car has been driven little in past 5 or 6 years. Have had cold start and idle problems: Cold start - full choke applied, takes 10 to 15 attempts to get it started Will not idle below 1200 rpm, and I need to pull the choke slightly, otherwise when returning to idle (like when coming to a stop) the engine dies. It will restart immediately and sometimes idle, but will die again at the next stop. Off idle and driving - the car seems OK replaced: Battery (would not hold a charge) Points (heavily pitted) Distr Cap condensor Spark Plug wires Fuel Filter Also: Adjusted valves checked plugs - looked OK - Autolite 63 I blocked off the air injection system/smog pump and attempted to adjust carbs (speed, mixture, balance). I can temporarily get it to idle about 800 RPM (rough and hunting), but after setting the balance screw and blipping the throttle, it will die when returning to idle. Car will restart immediately, but dies quickly. Suggestions?

Greetings: I purchased a 1972 240z (Green paint #133 and butterscotch interior) last month from the second owner who had been in possesion of the car since 1976. The car had seen some degree of regular service (142K miles), but not much in the way of maintenance or use in the past five years. The car is original except for a replacement 5-speed transmission of unkown origin - the owner had it done around 1989 by a local shop. It has the dealer installed A/C - all connected, but not operational. The car does start (not easily) and drive. Car has typical issues - will be searching and posting for assistance soon. I have worked on many vehicles over the years and have decent mechanical and body work skills and tools, so I'm looking forward to bringing this car back to a truly usable state. Picts and details will follow....