TBone028

+1 on ensuring all throttle plates are set the same, sounds like you already had that figured out with the progression hole alignment you mentioned earlier. It looks like you have 3 linkage-rod mounts (I've read sometimes the 3 mounts arent always aligned and causes slight binding)...does your linkage rod rotate freely when the engine is off? More importantly, it doesn't look like you have an external throttle return spring? I would DEFINITELY implement that as soon as possible (for safety). I use the set-up sold by piercemanifolds and would recommend it. p.s. an O2 meter is a great tool, take the guesswork out!

Reverend, if you look under the tech publications and how-to section, you should see a parts list and write-up of how I did my throttle cable install on my Weber DCOE's. Hopefully it gives you some ideas on how you want to do yours.

Since you're there when you're putting on the airhorns, I would check balance/sync anyways. Regarding changing jets/idle/etc, I dont think you would have to....Do you have an O2 sensor? The air is supposed to flow more smoothly with the radius in the lip, so maybe a slight increase in mains? Sorry, never tried it without horns.

I agree, I read this thread a few times prior to setting up my linkage. Koalia, not sure if you LITERALLY mean DIY linkage (like making your own actuation arms, throttle levers, etc). But a lot of individual parts are available via piercemanifolds.com. And not to plug my own post, but for some ideas...I cobbled together my own throttle cable conversion for my triple install. Hopefully it can give you a few good ideas. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/50008-weber-dcoe-throttle-cable-install-%7C-parts-list-basic-descriptions.html

You can run the block and valve cover breathers to a catch can...that might help. But are you sure its not a gasoline smell?

Blue, I will have to try and submit the article later. I kept getting database errors and gateway timeouts when I tried to post. And its weird about HybridZ and malware...for years I never had a problem with the site. Then 2 weeks ago I started getting notifications as well from my antivirus.

By request, I figured I show some pics of how I ran my throttle cable on my Weber DCOE's. I wanted the least amount of permanent modification as possible, and I think I was able to accomplish it with a great pedal feel and smooth action/return without any binding. Parts list: - Lokar 36in throttle cable, I used p/n: LOK-TC-1000U36 ($48 from Summitracing) - 5/16" Quick Disconnect Ball Joint Assembly (sorry, I dont have the part number: size 5/16-24) ($15 for 2 from Amazon.com) - 5/16" (8mm) rod arm p/n: 99006.251 ($8 from pierce manifolds) - DCOE bottom mount cable bracket, p/n: 40930 ($33 from Pierce Manifolds) - DCOE external spring kit, p/n: LT5000 ($32 from Pierce Manifolds) - 16" stainless steel linkage rod, 5/16" thick p/n: 36016 ($13 from piercemanifolds) - quantity 2, 5/16" shaft collars p/n: 99024.350 ($13 from piercemanifolds) - Last piece was the firewall bracket that replaced the bell crank. I received it from HybridZ member Savage42 for $25. This could probably be made for you DIY'ers. Its just a bracket with holes drilled that match the holes in the firewall, along with a hole for the Lokar throttle cable sheath fitting. Total cost: ~$187 I'm sure some of you more creative/thrifty folks have done something similar for a whole lot cheaper...but this was all readily available, off-the-shelf products (minus the firewall bracket, you will likely have to make that) delivered to my door. The Lokar throttle cable has one end with a ball and cup (1/4") that can be disconnected. Unfortunately the cup is too small to fit over the datsun pivot ball. You could probably drill out the datsun pivot ball and use the lokar ball/bolt part, but I didnt want to modify a NLA part. So, I took the 5/16 quick disconnect ball joint and slid it over the lokar cable end, and bonded the two permanently in place with JB Weld. Be careful when setting it with JB weld, there is a small hole in the lokar cable end and JB weld can fill up where the throttle cable is tightened down with a small screw. I like the quick-disconnect because it takes me all of 30 seconds to completely disconnect my throttle cable to make adjustments. Plus, I didnt have to crawl under the dash and modify the gas pedal at all. The only other "modification" I had to do was trim the cable sheath 3" to give me more cable wire. Here's a pic of the cable that shows both ends of the cable, cable end on top attaches near the firewall, cable end on the bottom attaches to the extra rod arm on the main linkage rod) And here's a pic of the cable end prior to being JB welded to the quick-disconnect joint. Ignore part number S1034 in the picture, its just a spare cable end I purchased in case I wanted to redo it. And here's a pic of it in place along with the firewall bracket from Savage42: To connect the throttle cable to the carb/linkage, I used the DCOE bottom mount cable bracket from PierceManifolds, and a small L shaped bracket (not shown) I had leftover from an old universal choke cable. This allows you to attach the other end of the lokar cable sheath fitting to the carb, and then the cable and clevis to the extra rod arm on the main linkage rod. Here's a pic of the bottom mount from Pierce Mainfolds, and it attached to the center carb. Lastly, the return spring is fitted to my 1st carb closest to the radiator...its the only return spring I'm running and with all the rods/arms attached to the carb/main linkage rod, all carbs return fully to the throttle stops. Based on some other posts, seems like I'm of the lucky few that is able to run all three rod ends on my intake manifold (brand is Redline). With my throttle cable rod arm mounted closely to the center rod end, I have good mechanical advantage and solid support to avoid bending the linkage rod. I've read some other experiences of folks only being able to run two rod ends due to uneven spacing and in some cases, the linkage rod flexing/being bent. I believe a fix for some folks has been re-drilling the manifold to accept 3/8 rod ends and a beefy 3/8" rod. Or filling the center rod end mount with JB weld, and re-drilling to be centered correctly. Hope this helps someone, it probably took me a solid few days of thinking about and finding all the parts online I would need to make everything work as I envisioned.

My friends during my DCOE rebuild were patience, multiple cans of carb cleaner, and taking a lot of time to set float levels. Your carbs look way cleaner then what I started with! My trials and tribulations are here: Weber DCOE's installed | Initial impressions - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ If you were considering switching to a throttle cable, my parts list and side-project are on page 2 of the thread, post #23. Good luck with the DCOE install...you'll wish you had done it sooner!

Sean, let me know next time you guys plan to head over to C&C in great falls...I'm relatively close enough to make it out there or meet up and cruise over together. Cant make it next weekend, but I'm relatively open in August. Feel free to PM if you want to exchange contact info.

+1 on fuel pressure...regardless of whether Fuel pressure is your culprit, it should be verified. I believe a safe range for DCOE's is 2.5- 3.5 PSI...I run 3.5 PSI with no problems. If your fuel-line dead-heads with no return, go with a fuel pressure regulator right before the carbs. If your car is currently set-up with a fuel return line, put the FPR right after the carbs. Just curious, what is your full DCOE jetting? I'm sure your mechanic can review his notes for these numbers if you dont want to open up your carbs. Mine is below for example (this is what works for my engine, not saying its for everyone): Carb (40 or 45 DCOE and model): 40 DCOE 2 Main Venturi/Choke: 36 Aux Venturi: 4.5 Main: 145 Air: 170 E-tube: F11 idle jet: 50F9 pump jet: 40 (I want to change this to 50 or 55) pump jet exhaust/bleed back: 0 Needle valve: 1.75 Timing: 13 initial, 32 full. AFR: 13.5 idle and cruise / 12-ish at WOT

In a driveway/garage, in neutral and you rev, does it make the same popping sound? Is it only at 2500 rpm or 2500 rpm and up? Is the popping coming from the carbs or exhaust? It might be easier to hear if you take the air-filters off (if its the carbs). My guess would be to check your timing, webers like a lot of advance (like 13-15 at idle, 32-34 all-in)...I would also second the opinion on checking/replacing fuel filters if that wasnt already changed recently. Lastly, start really digging into the world of weber dcoe's. I find it fun and really not as intimidating as I use to think it was.

Small thing to consider...I had something wonky with my one of my brake lights a few weeks ago...turned out the issue was one of the actual wire spade connections came loose in one of the 6 wire connectors under the clamshell cover. Couldnt find it until after I was jiggling wires while my foot was on the brake, watching the reflection of the light flickering off the garage door in the rearview mirror. After unplugging it, I was able to see it was just barely loose, giving me a faulty connection. I feel for you, electrical issues are not fun to try and hunt down.

Yeah, went back down to check progress on loctite and it popped right off in my fingers. I thought I had done a good job with surface prep previously for JB weld, but I dont think I'll ever be satisfied until I "know" its a permanent/secure fix. Oh well, for the time being, I'm just going to have to keep my eye out on ebay.

Thanks Blue, I went down that path and even as far as to call Piercemanifolds this afternoon. The 151 top as I understand is only compatible with plastic floats, whereas I have brass. And when I asked about used parts from Pierce, the person told me I would have to talk with Mike Pierce who wont get back till monday. Ive been scouring ebay for the past hour...that one you pointed out is one of the best "buy it now" deals...but its all the way in Greece and wouldnt get here till late july! Appreciate the look-out. Hoping to get lucky with something I'm watching on ebay now...hopefully I can snag it.

Gents, looking for some suggestions on how to fix my rather drastic problem. The float pivot pin split-arm broke off on my DCOE top cover a while back, and naively I thought I could fix it with JB weld. Well, after taking the cover off this afternoon to install a smaller size accelerator pump jet spill valve, I could see my "repair" was right on the verge of failure, and the gas proof formula JB weld peeled right off. Right now I'm on the hunt for a used DCOE top cover, but was wondering if there are any fixes you guys would suggest in the meantime? I'm trying to use red loctite to fuse the part together for now since its supposed to be gas-proof after curing, but I'll never feel confident until I can have an actual "mechanical" repair. Here's a pic I found online that looks exactly like my problem. [ATTACH=CONFIG]63984[/ATTACH]