killerpoon

lbpdz thats not what i wanted to hear today after listening to the rattling / rasping originally described my car had enough and something broke , i'm guessing its the bearings in the tranny now . it now makes pops and a lil jolts and loud raps when trying to make the car roll in any gear , pretty much dead where she sits, anyone have any helpful ideas or thoughts on a different problem , but after this id definitely say fix the rapping idling thing

Sorry about being so slow, plenty of stuff going on but heres the picture i promised

** but i love it

cant believe i never updated this . ok so about a week and a half later the alternator went out going down the highway , it was a faulty one of course . i ended up doing the 280zx alternator with internal regulator. works great to this day . however the running light switch is getting pretty faulty , i often have to turn it on and off on and off and on again to get them on , are they costly to replace? and the right blinker is still doing the occasional work then occasionally just stay on thing whenever i got to use it . man i paid to much this car ehh maybe

i'll post photos tomorrow , and they didnt accept it , i didnt even ask em too , it took me too many days to notice . i thought the dude was just being plain rough i didnt expect him to have actually broken something , who slams $^!# down on a 34 year old car lmao i mean come on now..

A cheap or reasonably priced tailight surrounding plastic panel or whatever the correct name is , a tire shop slammed the spare down on the hatch and cracked it . would be much appreciated . and also when decompressing the bumper shocks on a 280z can you push the bumper all the way into the shocks or is there a certain depth to have the bumpers welded in at? thanks in advance

i bought the car that once was mike wags and i'm having the same problems he was even though the pads still look great and as do the brakes . they squeal under light to moderate pressure but its gone under heavy braking . suggestions? thanks

ok sorry it took so long to update. tomorrow i'm going to bleed the new master cylinder i had installed , the other one seemed clogged and was hardly producing pressure and it was a serious pain in the arse where that clutch pedal pin connects to the CMS after that it may be back to life other then needing its headlights troubleshooted

ok so i bought the z from mike wags and now the clutch in the car wont engage at all and when i put the car in first then start it with the clutch to the ground the car starts moving . tomorrow i'm checking for the same thing in the previous post . anyone know if this is a common problem with the bolt coming loose or possibly a clutch master cylinder failing ? and what are the symptoms of this ? occasionally before i replaced the ClutchMS cap it used to leak out the entire resevoir , i got no idea if these things may be related thanks a bunch for letting me bounce some things off you guys in advance

alrighty . so after the fusible link was replaced my lights all came back on and like a dumbass i installed the new voltage regulator and forgot to plug it in at first . only problem is ... after i replaced everything, my slave cylinder decided to stop engaging the clutch . now the clutch could use a replacing but its definately not necessary . the car isnt going into any gears even though its full of brake fluid, and it has the same symptoms as when the slave cylinder went dry . so FINALLY after i replace this i should be good to go hopefully atleast. anyone else think there might be other findings other then needing a new slave cylinder i'm all open to idears

it says that you need to replace the voltage regulator along with the new alternator on a sticker on the alternator so it must not be internally regulated plus it was pretty cheap (i'm doing an upgrade down the road) and i couldnt measure didly just yet , i mentioned not having a voltmeter . BUT, i am purchasing one tomorrow , today was a work today so tomorrow i pick up the new regulator , new fusible link which as someone in another forum posted - "Black (fusible link) is 80 Amps, and connects the output of your alternator to the battery positive post, as well as the rest of the car! If yours is partially or completely melted/cooked/fried/cremated, then all the new alternators in the world can't help you." along with purchasing the new voltmeter i'll keep everyone posted with my results . even though this isnt over i'd like to thank everyone for helping a newbie out with my personally puzzling problems . much appreciated but yeah update tomorrow!