killerpoon

lbpdz thats not what i wanted to hear today after listening to the rattling / rasping originally described my car had enough and something broke , i'm guessing its the bearings in the tranny now . it now makes pops and a lil jolts and loud raps when trying to make the car roll in any gear , pretty much dead where she sits, anyone have any helpful ideas or thoughts on a different problem , but after this id definitely say fix the rapping idling thing

Sorry about being so slow, plenty of stuff going on but heres the picture i promised

** but i love it

cant believe i never updated this . ok so about a week and a half later the alternator went out going down the highway , it was a faulty one of course . i ended up doing the 280zx alternator with internal regulator. works great to this day . however the running light switch is getting pretty faulty , i often have to turn it on and off on and off and on again to get them on , are they costly to replace? and the right blinker is still doing the occasional work then occasionally just stay on thing whenever i got to use it . man i paid to much this car ehh maybe

i'll post photos tomorrow , and they didnt accept it , i didnt even ask em too , it took me too many days to notice . i thought the dude was just being plain rough i didnt expect him to have actually broken something , who slams $^!# down on a 34 year old car lmao i mean come on now..

A cheap or reasonably priced tailight surrounding plastic panel or whatever the correct name is , a tire shop slammed the spare down on the hatch and cracked it . would be much appreciated . and also when decompressing the bumper shocks on a 280z can you push the bumper all the way into the shocks or is there a certain depth to have the bumpers welded in at? thanks in advance

i bought the car that once was mike wags and i'm having the same problems he was even though the pads still look great and as do the brakes . they squeal under light to moderate pressure but its gone under heavy braking . suggestions? thanks

ok sorry it took so long to update. tomorrow i'm going to bleed the new master cylinder i had installed , the other one seemed clogged and was hardly producing pressure and it was a serious pain in the arse where that clutch pedal pin connects to the CMS after that it may be back to life other then needing its headlights troubleshooted

ok so i bought the z from mike wags and now the clutch in the car wont engage at all and when i put the car in first then start it with the clutch to the ground the car starts moving . tomorrow i'm checking for the same thing in the previous post . anyone know if this is a common problem with the bolt coming loose or possibly a clutch master cylinder failing ? and what are the symptoms of this ? occasionally before i replaced the ClutchMS cap it used to leak out the entire resevoir , i got no idea if these things may be related thanks a bunch for letting me bounce some things off you guys in advance

alrighty . so after the fusible link was replaced my lights all came back on and like a dumbass i installed the new voltage regulator and forgot to plug it in at first . only problem is ... after i replaced everything, my slave cylinder decided to stop engaging the clutch . now the clutch could use a replacing but its definately not necessary . the car isnt going into any gears even though its full of brake fluid, and it has the same symptoms as when the slave cylinder went dry . so FINALLY after i replace this i should be good to go hopefully atleast. anyone else think there might be other findings other then needing a new slave cylinder i'm all open to idears

it says that you need to replace the voltage regulator along with the new alternator on a sticker on the alternator so it must not be internally regulated plus it was pretty cheap (i'm doing an upgrade down the road) and i couldnt measure didly just yet , i mentioned not having a voltmeter . BUT, i am purchasing one tomorrow , today was a work today so tomorrow i pick up the new regulator , new fusible link which as someone in another forum posted - "Black (fusible link) is 80 Amps, and connects the output of your alternator to the battery positive post, as well as the rest of the car! If yours is partially or completely melted/cooked/fried/cremated, then all the new alternators in the world can't help you." along with purchasing the new voltmeter i'll keep everyone posted with my results . even though this isnt over i'd like to thank everyone for helping a newbie out with my personally puzzling problems . much appreciated but yeah update tomorrow!

yeah i cleaned the grounds earlier with a wire brush , i got the same problem i even cleaned the connectors on the voltage regulator as well but i'm going to have it replaced tomorrow because like they said your suppose to change em both out , as for the combo switch can someone show me a picture of one i'm having a hard time instantly getting accustomed to wheres what in the motor bay . also as a side note the right blinker gets stuck on the on position instead of blinking when the indicators on but then at other times it'll function correctly . any possibility of it being part of the combo switch i dont think it was tied into one another when i busted open the wiring diagram but it was hard hell to read with the tiny font sizes anybody have any idea on what gauge to use in place of the black wire fusible link? edit: could the voltage regulator being messed up explain the slow rising rpms when the cars on? and i checked the fuses earlier on today by the way , they were all fine but all the lights are still out all over the car :/

i charged up the battery but the car quickly drained it , plus the interior voltmeter gauge was a wavering a decent bit before it dropped , plus i still have no interior lights whatsoever including the customer actual lights and the stereo all do not function yet i cleaned up the voltage regulator plug and i also cleaned the terminals . a suggestion on another forum was that it might be the voltage regulator needing replacing. and one of the fusible links is removed , the black one due to corrosion . anyone know the amperage for the black fusible link or what the corresponding gauge wire is.

i checked the ground to the chassis and it looks fine , i just bought the car about a month ago and first thing that happened when i got it was the headlights went out and wouldnt turn back on but i was 200+ miles from home so i had to wire them straight to the battery and disconnect them when it wasnt necessary to have them on . other then that the car seemed to perfectly fine , and as of now no lights come on with the key in . ima charge up the battery and try it again and see if theres any change

Ok so my car is a 76 280z and the car isnt charging the battery it doesnt seem i replaced the alternator already , i did backyard trouble shooting by removing one of the terminals and the car died , only problem is - it continued to dod the same thing after i replaced the battery . but once i turned it on with the new alternator all the lights in the car including the lights in the stereo went out . but the car continued to run . i cut it off after noticing that the rpms were slowly but steadily rising at idle to about 1800-2k rpms i did not replace the external voltage regulator and the battery is fairly new . after the cars been jumped i forgot to add it starts up immediately and stays running but once you turn it off it will not turn off it will just make your typical dead battery click. anyone know what might be going on with this thing its a lil discouraging . and does anybody know what the gauge the black fusible link is supposed to be it completely rotted away and i believe it goes to something pretty important :stupid: thanks so much in advance by the way first post!