sekjr

Can anyone recommend someone that can do some restoration work for me. The body has some small rust spots to be repaired, door lower edges are rusted, some rust on edges of fenders, and the entire car has to be repainted. I need a neat shop, within say, 20miles of Bristol, CT... Stan sekjr@juno.com

Let me guess - this has happened to me! The gage assembly had been removed, and tipped upsidedown, causing the tach needle to flip to the extreme - from gravity... In putting the gage assembly back in, no one rotated the gage assembly to allow gravity to get the needle back to zero! So the electronics couldn't influence the needle... Too far out of range... Sound crazy?

Someone may correct me if I am wrong BUT Sounds like you are burning rich. Which means your cold start valve is not turning off! Thermotime switch needs attention! It controls the cold start valve. Page EF-16 of the Service Manual...

There is a sending unit for sale right now on eBay - and the guy wants a fortune. Anything being sold by 'reddat' is expensive. I won't deal with him. BUT BUT BUT you can fix it yourself. What I found to be the problem is that the wipers are NOT grounding properly. ALSO: The wire terminals are riveted to the top plate -- and rotate -- meaning they are NOT making good contact. FIX? Soder jumpers from the indivdual rivets on the underside of the plate to the individual wires with a pencil sodering iron. Soder small jumper wires from the wipers to ground. A convenient ground is one of the screws holding the framing together.... If you have any questions on procedure, contact me...

There are three terminals. One goes to a silver "probe". What is it?

Mine fell. Can someone suggest how to re-attach... I tried using contact cement on another area, and it crinkled the plastic... Not good... I would like to change to fabric to something else. Any suggestions?

Going thro my Z I replaced the fuel pump and got ready to pressurize, but the tank was empty, so I poured 2 gal in... only to find it all over the floor. I had pinholes in the tank.... THAT's why there was no gas in the tank... So - do I patch it? or buy a new tank? Where do I get a tank... No sites on the internet that come up have one...

WOW THANKS!!! I would have never known! Nothing about it in the manual! I thought the check valve was IN the pump!!! MANY THANKS for clearing this up... I wonder why they didn't make any of the OTHER components out of plastic. My damper rusted right out AND -- the "check valve" is further protected in it's own little plastic "house"...

My tan headliner dropped. How do you re-glue it. It has this foam powder on the back - like it was foam rubber at one time? and disintegrated to powder??? I would assume I would have to brush it all off the hardboard and the vinyl before using contact cement? But then I wouldn't have that supple look -- with nothing between the hardboard and the vinyl... What would I use for the inbetween layer? Anyone have any ideas about using a nicer looking vinyl? or must I use the old vinyl because it is form fitted...

In revamping a rusted out fuel pump, my manual says there is a fuel damper forward. In exploring - I found a plastic wafer thing in it's own snap together plastic box!!!! bolted to the frame -- and further on, an all steel "damper?"... Both have hoses in/out! Can anyone tell me which is which - - or what is what??? Are they dampers? modulators? What are they called...? I notice in fuel pump replacement instructions, they tell you to watch out for gas coming out of the fuel tank. How can the gas come out, if it has to be sucked out (other than natural gravity siphoning)... If I put in a new fuel pump, do I have to prime it??? I wonder if there is a campaign on to rid the world of those expensive lousy Haynes Manuals - that don't give you details and make things more confusing than they're worth worth... Thanks Stan Farmington CT