spitz17

Here are some pics. First two pictures are of my first '70 Z w/ Tokico Shocks/Springs, Rota RB-R +10 offset 16x8 and Type I Airdam from MSA. 225/50/16 Falken Azenis RT615K FRONT AND REAR. Second picture is of my current '72 Z w/ Tokico Shocks/Springs, Rota RB-R +10 offset 16x8 and 80's airdam (basically same as a stock set up because I use stock valance). 215/45/16 Falken Azenis RT615K Fronts and 225/50/16 Rears.

Ok, sorry I missed the fact you had a Type II airdam. 225/50/16:Will be fine if you have an airdam, and do not mind trimming at it a bit. DEFINITELY RUN A SPACER. 215/50/16:Will be fine, but how much "bulky," I do not know. 215/45/16:Will fit well, very little stretch and not "bulky."

I guess I'll chime in here. Andy is correct on my sizes and suspension, with exception that I am running 215/45, not 215/50. The car sits on Tokico Illumina Shocks and Springs, and the Tokico springs do seem to lower the car quite a bit. I cannot speak for stock suspension, however I think a set of sagging springs will have the same effect. I also run a 8mm spacer to clear the stock spring perch. With the Rota RB-R's at +10 offset and 16x8 sizing they rub the bottom valance (where the turn signals are attached to). I changed to a 215/45/16 and the fitment is pretty good. Keep in mind the 215/45/16 leaves a 96.75 mm tall tire, whereas the 225/50/16 leaves a 112.5 mm tall tire, a good 15.75mm difference which was enough to clear the inner valance. With a 225/45/16 tire you will have a 101.25 tall tire (a 11.25 mm different), and should be able to clear. Unfortunately, Falken Azenis RT615 are not available in the 225/45/16 size. I also had Azenis set up on the rear already, and not wanting to mix tire brands lead me to settling with the 215/45/16 Azenis. It does leave quite a bit of wheel gap, which I despise, but I will be going with a coilover set up and some nice flush Watanabe RS wheels within the next year. Hope this helps.

Rockauto.com I've bought their remanufactured boosters before and they seem up to par.

+1 for Lokar's throttle kit. Had mine purchased with black anodized fittings 24" looks like the correct length, I used a 36" because my pedal is on the wrong side :stupid:

I believe some people obtain the same diameter and length hose, then put a copper rod through it to shape it into the correct style. I could be wrong, but I think I recall seeing it on jdm-car-parts.com's blog. Just make sure the rod is not long enough to plug anything up. Other than that, the bends should keep it stationary.

My old 71 (HLS30-11651) was purchased from the same dealer Was an lifetime Bay Area car until I sold her to a gentleman in Georgia a few weeks ago.

+1 to Arne I agree. A car is meant to be driven. IMHO, Datsun/Nissan Z's aren't exactly Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance material, and I doubt they will ever be. I use to be very strict on putting miles on my restored Z, and even more paranoid that it would get chipped, dinged, or damaged. That is why I sold the show car to someone to someone who would properly uphold it. I kept the "tired," but much alive, Z car and I never regret going back. It is simply too much fun to drive How will we keep the spirit of these cars alive, if we do not drive them and show the world they are still around? Will it matter to me the condition of the car 100 years later when I am long gone? NOPE.

A problem free Z... .

I stand corrected

On an R200, the transverse link cross member that you will see by looking at the differential when kneeling behind your car will have a natural bend towards you. If it is completely straight, it's an R180.

Glad to hear. Funny how things work out that way. I am a big fan of the "HS30-H" model Z's. I would be curious to see the figures on how many Fairlady 240Z, 240Z-L, and 240Z-G's have remained. I wonder if there is any information around on that? These are beautiful parts indeed. I would say the price is fair... Considering anyone who has the desire to take on the task of making a near-exact replica, probably would not mind spending the money to do it right anyways.

:cry:

Direct bolt in, and may require a bit of center console wall modification depending on the year of your car. There are a few on eBay right now, including a few rebuilt ones. Craigslist is the best source... Just look for people parting out 280Z and 280ZX's and ask them for the transmission. Datsun Parts LLC sells rebuilt ones, although I haven't heard anything but negative comments about them. You may also want to make sure your differential gear ratio is the same as your cog ratio in the transmission, so your speedo doesn't go crazy.

2001 Audi A4 2.8L Quattro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi 1970 Datsun 240Z (5998) 1971 Datsun 240Z (11651) --- Current: 1972 Nissan Fairlady 240Z-L 2008 BMW M3 Coupe A baby compared to your list!

Wow, that is one beautiful Z.

Wow, beautiful car. Looks pretty legitimate.

Flush the tank!

I'm going to be looking at this thread too... sent you a pm too

Hope everyone in the S30 community and their families are safe and sound =(

If you have a puller maybe 10 minutes. If you are doing it by the hand, it could range from 10 minutes to a few hours in the hospital from wacking yourself in the face when you pull it off the steering column. Pull the stock horn, unplug the horn connections, remove the middle nut, use a steering wheel puller or yank by hand. Then reverse

Panasports are often copied as you have mentioned. They are definitely a quality wheel, that look great on most Z's. They are no doubt the "Cadillac of Z wheels", as d240zx2 mentioned... But it could be worse. Take for example the "Ferrari" of Z wheels, Watanabe Probably in upwards of $2,400 a set shipped to the US. Even then... Watanabe wheel paint chips like crazy. I'd go with a solid set of Konig Rewinds, or Rota RB-Rs.

I have Rota RB-R 16x8 +10 offset wheels w/ 225/50/16 rears and no rubbage. I am also running Tokico 5-way Adjustable Shocks w/ Tokico Springs which lowers the car about an inch. The fronts had a little rubbing issue on the stock valance due to the 8 inch wide rim on 225/50/16 so I had to go with 215/45/16. If you have a aftermarket airdam, it most likely won't rub or will require minimal cutting. I ran 16x7 panasports on my 240Z, with 225/50/16 and it rubbed a bit on the front valance as well.

Msged you JC, I got a spare.