spitz17

Thanks Z, I definitely be considering Nakatsu as one of my build options. The photos look great! Boy, does the 280Z have a lot of wiring and tubes running everywhere!

Built it to stock specs?

Thanks for your help guys. Unfortunately Nakatsu's Garage seems very far for me... but if he does a good job, I would not mind renting a trailer to get the car there. It drives now, but I don't know how safe it is to drive. I will look into Rob @ ZCG.

I'll have to check, my friend said Rebello prefers working on cars that they put their engines in. Thanks!

So the exhaust smoke of my car (#11651) has slowly turned blue. I am banking on the o-rings, valve seals, or piston rings being shot... I will not know till further diagnosis but my spark plugs are covered in oil. Constant blue exhaust smoke (o-rings) is what I think is the problem. Does anyone know a reputable shop that can rebuild a l-series engine in the bay area, or in northern California? I'm looking for a shop that has handled pristine/show-condition cars, not the kind of shop that will leave your car in the corner covered in dust and parts sitting on the body. If you look at my blog, you'll see the condition of my car, and I wouldn't want to hurt her Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have considered Z Car Garage, but I'd like to explore more options before I go to them. Thank you!

zbarn.com is your best friend... not sure if NOS ones are still available :\

I think we should have a small meet

So you did it how I did it, then when you did the final bolting to the bottom two lines, you pulled the plugs out and rescrewed? Did you lose some brake fluid in the process? I'd imagine if you took the plugs out to bolt onto the lines, fluid would just drop out....

In that case would I bolt the MC up to the booster and the bottom two brake lines, then put the lines on the side bleeders feeding them back into the reservoirs? Or bolt up to the booster, keep the side bleeders shut, and bleed from the bottom two feeding them back into reservoirs? I'd imagine it's the first procedure by keeping the bottom two bolted to the brake lines and bleeding from the bleeders. But if there's no fluid in the system, wouldn't that just suck air in?

So install it, and bleed from the bleeders? Or just normally bleed....

Okay, so I have not done it myself before, but I think I have the general procedure down. I still have some questions however. This is the set I received from RockAuto. A remanufatured Nabco MC. The kit came with two bleeder lines and two green plugs (adapters?). I have the reservoirs and fittings that I will be bolting on soon. Now I believe this is how I do it but I am not 100% sure. Please correct me if I am wrong at any point in this procedure. 1. I screw these small green adapters into the bottom two openings of the MC. 2. Once the reservoirs are on the MC, I place the MC onto a vice. 3. This next step confuses me a bit. I know I am suppose feed the lines from one of the pairs of openings back into the reservoirs. I am not sure if I feed them from the two bleeders on the side of the MC or the two green plugs (adapters) from the bottom? I believe I do it like this: This correct? :stupid: 4. Once all the air is gone, how exactly do I bolt it onto the car without losing a crap ton of brake fluid? Once I remove the lines I am assuming brake fluid will start crapping out of the MC non-stop all over my paint Also is a philips screw drive okay in place of a pushrod? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!

Funny, how both our cars looks so similar... and we have a similar problem. I had some oil gathering near the alternator bracket as well, and bottom of the oil pump. Turned out it was the upper oil pump gasket (I guess theres one in the middle too). Even though I torqued it down, initially, it was still leaking. Once I put a new gasket in, problems were solved Hope you figure your problem out soon.

I vote keep it Zealous! Down the road, I'm sure either the right offer will come or you could possibly fix it.

Beautiful! Same as my set up! I see it's a 70, What VIN is it?

Big mistake! It'll fly off or stretch into a hot air balloon. I've never done it personally, but seen the aftermath of friends doing it. Drive in the slow lane

I rather have a Hakosuka GTR

This is extremely helpful Gary, thank you!

It's beautiful! Nice Buy for sure!

Coming from a younger crowd... and growing up during the "Fast and Furious 1" days, I can't say that I knew what the Z was when I was 10. However, I always noticed the lime Zs running around my local town, and was always oblivious to the maker or year. A little less than a year ago, I started becoming more and more interested in the 240Z. I never liked the 350Z or 300ZX, but I definitely had a respect for where they came from. No crazy stories here, but a simple appreciation the lines and shape drew my obsession to Zs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PRIMADONNA-Z-2-3-JACK-ATKINSON-UNBELIEVABLE-FLA-/230470977911?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35a9240977 Never even heard of these... wow...

Welcome! You should check the car for rust before you bought it, but I'm just assuming it was a gift Check the dogs legs, under the battery tray, hatch balcony, floor pans (lift the carpet up), undercarriage frame rails, spare wheel area (remove rear deck carpet), wheel wells, etc. Bushing kits range from $150-200 like you said. You can order from ZBARN.COM for super fast shipping; Roger there is great! It wouldn't hurt to get a weak magnet, and try and stick it to the areas I mentioned above; see how much bondo you actually have on the car. Cheers, and good luck!

Welcome to the site, look forward to seeing pictures! You're lucky to be in a huge Z market

How do we check if we got into the tour or not? =T

Oh my... he does exist...

That kinda looks like the front spoiler I have on my 70 Z #5998. It's just sitting in my garage right now, for repairs. I believe mine is made out of fiber glass, so it's probably not a 70s item.