spitz17

Bought a pair of Datsun Competition Bucket Seats from Eiji, and his shipping was quick and packaged very well. No complaints here.

Time for this wheel Period correct, sporty, great feel :stupid:

RIP -- Sad that this year's Monterey Historics Marque will be Shelby Cobra... =(

This was a great show, I'll be back next year

You should pass it to me Was patching up the car with some protective clear bra tape I use for my track car last night and took a chunk of paint off the hood while adjusting the tape... pretty bummed... I just left the tape on for the show argh! 40 year old paint + clear bra = No no. I guess it's time for repaint!

Wow this car is beautiful, great find!

Before: after:

I will most likely be attending the C&C as well on Saturday

Steve, shooting you a PM

This is AWESOME! Would it be possible to make a PDF of the booklet and post it? Especially the tuning section. May be asking too much, but thought I'd ask

I believe they call that color "Black." Or at least on the Japanese websites. You would think that "Black" is the Satin/Flat Black, which it is not. I PM'ed you the Watanabe US Distributor's e-mail, who is from Japan. He is very knowledgeable in regards to Watanabes.

I just did a very similar job to yours a few weeks ago. My 2 cents is to replace ALL seals. My rear main seal was leaking even though I didn't see a spot of oil on the flywheel or clutch. It was dripping down the back of the engine/tranny plate. My rubber boot was wet as well. Once you replace the front transmission seal (remember to lubricate the inner lip of the seal), transmission front cover gasket, and rear main seal, reinstall everything. I say this, because you don't want to go back and replace the old seals a few months later if they decide to leak. If you still get leakage near the boot, it is most likely the clutch slave (or hose, if it's old enough). Keep in mind, from my experience, brake/clutch fluid sometimes drys up as it is not as heavy as oil. Again, if the clutch slave is leaking, replace it, but it is also recommended that you replace the clutch master cylinder at the same time, as you don't want a new slave or MC putting too much pressure on an old unit. Also, there is another possibility of a rear main cap leak. There are four seals that slide into the block where the rear main seal's cap can be removed. I believe this must be done by removing the oil pan, which at the same time you can replace the oil pan gasket. Reference here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37250-Rear-Main-cap-side-seals

Congrats! Great color combo as well!

$2,400+!!!

No where near worth it.

It is hard to say because I upgraded to Wilwoods all around, and a Wilwood 1" Brake Master Cylinder at the same time. I have seen people say it is a worthy upgrade though, and that there is additional brake assist.

The holes through the firewall will not match up. You'll have to measure and drill through the firewall, and I would use some insulation to block off the holes. I did this conversion, and it is very straight forward. If done right it should be a clean outcome.

I have a spare custom heatshield made for my old set of Mikunis. If you would like I can send it your way for a small price (just what it cost for me to make). Shoot me an e-mail at chioug at gmail dot com.

^-

Beautiful car indeed. Unfortunately Fairlady Z's, at least the ones in Japan, did not receive an engine code on the engine bay plate. To verify, you can general guess the range of the engine code based on build date. Like my Fairlady, it didn't suffer from the addition of the rear red reflectors! Mostly all Fairlady's I have seen in the States had this item added to be road legal in the 70's. The door panels, steering wheel, front grill, among others will need to changed back, but awesome condition!

Beautiful car Leon. I think you should pick it up

I am trying to source a transmission crossmember of this style: I only found one thread on this transmission crossmember (I'm probably blind), but I am curious to find more information on it: 1. What year(s) does this transmission cover? 2. Do transmission isolators work with all the three types? 3. Are there bushings (stock or energy) still available? The other two types, for both manual and auto, I have seen (I currently have the one on the right): If anyone has one they'd like to either donate or sell, I'd be ever grateful

Apologies that I am reviving an older thread, but I am super stoked that I will be receiving my refurbished rally clock from Ron in a few days. I will be posting a YouTube on how the clock works once I have it all fitted

I too know Bill from track events. He has a contact in the Bay Area that is supposedly a "Mikuni guru" who may know a thing or two about Webers. May want to ask him about that?

gaZdoc, just curious, what are those regular intervals Dave told you?