spitz17
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Everything posted by spitz17
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Creaking and Groaning in passenger rear quarter
spitz17 replied to Zealous's topic in Suspension & Steering
Hey JC, sorry to hear about the problems on your car! I am guessing you want to avoid taking it to a shop and try to fix it yourself. If you do, however, decide to take it to a shop and don't wanna pay big ZCG bucks, I'd try out Dando's Automotive in Fremont. I have been going their for the Fairlady's head and exhaust work, and they use to be a Z Specialty shop. Ask for Benjyee, I believe he used to work for Rebello and knows his stuff. -
Unless you are a purist you can just tape around the spring under the fender, or something I did was take an old Kodak Film Barrel (yes, ancient) and cut the bottom out. You'll find it fits pretty well over the spring haha... In terms of the black plastic parts under the mirror but above the fender, I have never seen those for sale seperately
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My word, that is pretty!
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On second thought, yeah you are right about the parking brake. It would probably hold the wheel constantly, and you wouldn't be able to accelerate easily. A good test to see if it is the drum is let the clutch off slightly without stepping on the accelerator to see if there is any resistance or premature stalling. I think someone in the previous thread had mentioned trying that.
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I had a similar case once, turned out to be the rear drum pad was stuck. Also, did you check your parking brake on that side?
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Welcome to the club! If it is infested with rust, there are plenty of shells out here in California that you can purchase and use your current as a donor car. However, if your car is fixable, or you have the emotional attachment to it that many of us have, you can stick with it
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Lookin' good!
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Ron, Glad to hear you picked it up I look forward to hearing it on your car as well... I want to see how it sounds with the Trust muffler, as mine is a MSA header. I just found out my car has a frozen valve in the head :*( It'll be awhile before I can get a video up. Ron just might beat me to it...
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Hahah I have had many instances where I had my mouse "hovering over the buy it now button." At least you are the first to admit you're impulsive, took me awhile before I admit that about myself. But trust me, once that nicely packaged Fujitsubo Legalis-R is sitting on your front porch... you will be smiling like NO other The sound is absolutely beautiful too... Were you looking to buy it off RHDJapan.com?
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You mentioned it was a 70 240Z. Update your VIN number with the forum so we can see if it is a low VIN car Also remember to update the Z registry on Zhome.com! Also check out Zonc.org for the Z Owners of Northern California Club. There are several enjoyable events each year that you may join once you get her running. Where in the Bay Area are you?
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A quick snap of the exhaust installed on my Fairlady... needs a little adjustment as stated previously. I apologise for the horrible phone camera quality.
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Yea, from what I hear it is a direct bolt on to the Trust header. I was a little concerned about exhaust diameter with my stock motor, but after seeing LeonV's explanation I feel a lot better about doing this modification. I think the base price of the exhaust is around $800-900 and shipping is a whopping $300 or so! The quality of this exhaust is uncomparable... excellent welds and awesome sounding. Fujitsubo never fails to impress! I know several people on this forum who have had headaches getting the sizing down for a custom twin tip STACKED exhaust... Measurements of ID, OD, and distances between tips is a hassle for anyone who does not want to put the effort in. This exhaust is definitely a viable option.
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Good to hear you can have some fun in the winter!
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Where are you in the Bay Area, Leon? You should come out to the end of the month Starbucks meets, or ZONC meets if close enough... Assuming you don't already.
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You should see his Mini His Z is very nice, classic Japanese Retro Modding! His Mini is fully track built with a Civic Type R Custom setup... I think it does around 150-200hp, and pulls very hard on the track. He has to constantly keep that car up to maintanence... so it just makes sense for him to have a DD he can rely on to start up every day
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He has other priorities with his '68 Mini and wants to get a DD that he can rely on to drive 80 miles a day hahaha...
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He is parting out his car, and it is going on my Fairlady Dando's Automotive is doing some final fitting on it for me, as when I put it on it didn't bolt up too well due to my header. I'll be sure to update and post a youtube when it's done!
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Beautiful car man, I love the color accents
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Free is awesome The body shop is called B2 Perfection in Sunnyvale, CA. They did my father's vehicle, a 2004 Mercedes E320, and my daily driver, 2010 Toyota Prius. They matched the paint PERFECTLY, and did great body work as well. I would recommend them to anyone in the Bay Area with a Z or other car that needs work. I know Z owners here like William's Auto Body, but you can't argue with B2's 227 reviews on Yelp with 5 Star Rating.
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Thanks for your help guys, I called the body shop I usually go to for advice and they said they would do it for free if I dropped by!
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Casey Z, Is that a block of wood to put under the floor pan while you hammer on top to make it straight? Or do you put the wood, kinda like a punch, over the floor pan and hammer down on it? Thanks!
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Keep your eyes open is all you can do. Have you ruled out shipping a Z to yourself? You could always take a nice trip here to California and take a look at a few Zs and have a nice vacation as well
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The frame rail at the center of the floor is pushed up a bit I thought jacking from the "rail" on the floor pan was okay !!
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Hi ZCurves, Thanks for your advice. By "2x4" do you just mean a piece of "2x4" solid steal? Your explanation was more than enough, but I do not see myself drilling holes in my floor pan, as the car was completely undercoated and cleaned before. The damage is not extreme, as I do not see any welds splitting off... just kind of a solid dent with curved edges... I will however try the large hammer and "2x4" method, once I figure out what a "2x4" is! Hahaha... I never thought of including a jack into the process but it seems like it'll work!
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I know some members here have experienced the good ol' "doh! I'm an idiot and jacked from the wrong area." Well I apparently made the stupid mistake of jacking from the wrong area of the floor pan rail, resulting in an unattractive upward buldge. I have searched a few sites and found out the best option is to take a flat hammer and dolly and slowly work at it. Does anyone have any better options? Is the metal so thin that I should just go to a body shop to safe? The metal has no rust, so I do not think I have to worry about weak points. Any help would be greatly appreciated! :stupid:
