spitz17

Happy bday!

Is your vehicle carb'ed or stock EFI? One of my Zs is doing this as well, and I am currently diagnosing the problem. Many have told me it may have to do with the mechanical fuel pump not pumping enough gas. But I am assuming your vehicle has the electric, which may be malfunctioning?

Good ol' California with squat

Just to clear up the "did you mount it upside down" question... I mounted the sending unit so that the tab with the black rubber or bushing (???) is on the top and the exposed tab directly below it. Is this correct? I will check the grounds this weekend. Guess I'll have to get my hands dirty and track the system all the way to the front.

There are still plenty of us that love "resto-modded" Z's! Take myself for example HybridZ.org would be a good place to look up some nice examples of modded Z's, however, I believe a member has to be a "Donating Member" to post a car for sale on their "For Sale" forums. Therefore, eBay and Craigslist would be good bets. That Blue Z on eBay you linked us to is absolutely STUNNING. Great example of a V8 Z.

Welcome to the forum Giovanni! Good luck with your hunt of a 240Z here in the states. There are many fine examples for reasonable prices. Try and see if you can find members around the areas of the 240Z's you find as I am sure many of them would be more than happy to look at them for you. If you find any near the San Jose, California area message me and I would not mind going to look at them. In the mean time, good luck! Try Craigslist.com or even this forum's classified area.

Alrighty guys, yet another fuel sending unit/gauge problem at hand! I have searched through both CZCC, ZDriver, ZCAR, and HybridZ and haven't been able to find a solid answer for my problems. Here is basically the story/symptoms: A few of you may have seen my thread on my recent purchase of a Fairlady 240Z that sat for 20 years in a covered shed-area in the moutains of Santa Cruz. When I first got the car the fuel gauge was reading about 3/4 at a full tank, however the tank was quite rusty so I had it professionally repaired and sealed by the Radiator Doctor (San Jose, CA, they did a great job for $285). I reinstalled a new fuel tank sending unit, o-ring, and lock plate thereafter. I reinstalled the fuel tank and had all the wires set properly. Now, the fuel gauge reads only 1/4 and I know that it is at the very minimum the tank has gas up to 1/2 - 3/4 full. The needle also kinda flutters up and down between empty and 1/4. I've used this small thread as reference: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29351 What I've done: - Connected the + and - of my full battery volt meter to both contact points on the fuel sending unit and got a reading of 25-30 OHMs. Which sounds correct to me for a 3/4 full tank. 10 Ohms being full and 90 Ohms being empty. - Connected the yellow and black wires from the rear electrical harness (the wires that connect to the sending unit, and have black cups). This was to test the fuel gauge, and it read FULL once I did this. - Tested the current of the yellow wire, which jumps from 0 to 10 to 30... basically all over the place. This could be why the fuel gauge is fluctuating up and down between E and 1/4 full. Makes sense to me anyways... :paranoid: On the thread mentioned above there was the following post: I have attached the thumbnail that Nissanman is referencing. However, I have not been able to find this fuseable link, fuse, nor voltage regulator in the fuel gauge circuit. Have I followed the wire completely around the car? No, so maybe that is the next thing I need to do. When I searched "instrument voltage regulator for 240Z" on Google, I come up blank. What I, a newbie to electronics, have concluded: * The fuel sending unit is working correctly (brand new, tested at 30 OHMs, 3/4 full tank). * The fuel gauge is fine, when grounded (black touches yellow) it reads FULL. * There is something funky going on between the contacts of the wires somewhere routed from the rear to the front of the car. The fix may be as easy as just cleaning up some connections (rear yellow/black contacts were cleaned) The fuel gauge is never getting a solid reading because of the borderline contacts from the rear to the front. Questions: - Plain and simple... what am I doing wrong? - Where is the location of this fuseable link, fuse, or voltage regulator? Is it under the dash somewhere? - Is there any other tests I can do? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!

Hey Kats, Sorry for the horribly late reply, but I did not find that stitching on my Fairlady Z or 240Z Interesting that DMC-Z found the same thing. Too bad I do not have HLS30-05998 anymore, which is very close to DMC-Z's 5389, or else I would check. Definitely gives your Z some character though, haha.

That is extremely neat!

I just got my exhaust in two weeks ago as well. Great sounding exhaust... I flipped the muffler like many people advised and the muffler casing does not hang from the underside. I still however have to get the tip stretched to go over the muffler outlet instead of tuck in. I don't understand why they can't just do it from the box, but I guess it could be cost prohibiting.

Exactly as you said with one exception. I would personally use a handheld machine grinder (great investment, can be used for more jobs than you think!). Afterwards, as you said, grind just past the areas where the surface rust ends... Use a rust inhibitor paint like POR-15, and touch it up with primer and paint. Is it just me or does your radiator/hood/engine bay area look of a deeper blue than the exterior of the car in your signature?

Wow, what a pretty Z... My Fairlady Z is very very close in VIN to this car... #10052, but RHD and has a build date of roughly 10/71. Beautiful find

Awesome info! Going to bookmark this.

There you go

I had a similar problem in regards to the clicking noise. I swapped the ignition switch and everything was fixed. However, I do not know why your fuel pump would not pump... =\

Rota RB-R 16x8 +4mm offset, 205/40/16 w/ Ground Control Coil Overs... Just a guess =P But I'll let Andy confirm haha...

Very nice pick up! Very close to my 10/70 Z car, VIN #11651. Hopefully you can get her up and running and make it to some ZONC.org events (Z Owners of Northern California).

Hooray for original engine (assuming the 2.0L is original)! Not a huge fan of the roof, but to each his own I guess =T Tons of Fairladys popping up lately...

inZane240, , will do... I haven't managed to get around to updating the blog, but I will do an extended posting this weekend when I add in the whole refresh process for the Fairlady. That is a beautiful Z you have there as well, I pm'ed you a question about it

Your car is smoking blue? If I am correct, that is a sign of possible worn piston rings or valve seals... Did you check your spark plugs to see if they are exposed to oil? On the other hand, I may be totally wrong... but that was the symptom of my '70.

Keep up the work! He probably did not overstate the GT-R, just paid that crazy mark up amount when it was first released

Gorgeous! I especially I love the touch of the BRE air dam.

Hi guys, thanks again for all the complements! It has been almost a month and a half since I purchase the car, and now I have finally got it back on the road! We took out the engine, transmission, differential, brakes and all suspension components. Pretty much stripped the car and sanded down all the minor surface rust and made some temporary repairs (I do plan on repainting the whole car in the future). All the bushings were replaced, the suspension and engine parts were polished and repainted. It is not perfect, but definitely better than when I first got it. I am very happy with the outcome. Now to do some paint refreshing/detailing before I store her for the rainy season Here are a few pictures from yesterday when I went over to the seller/mechanic's house where we refreshed the car to load her up on the close trailer. We swapped the old tired/rotted Recaro and German non-matching Bucket seats for the original stockers, then I drove her around the block and she felt exceptional! The brakes could use a bit more love, but overall it was the best feeling in the world.

I've had some luck with JB Weld on pressure applied parts. You may try http://www.zeddsaver.com They specialize in restoring Zs... they may have what you are looking for and they are located in Canada