leftover z

If the holes are all crusty, and you are putting in a new floor panel, then no you don't need them.

You can find speedo's on eVil-bay for under $20.

The volt meter stays on all the time, and should read 12 volts. With the car running, it should read about 13.8 volts. The red charge light indicates a problem. I'd check your battery and alternator. Regarding the tach, it could malfunction if you are not getting a full 12 volts. Take care of your battery & alternator first. If the tach is still messed up, I'd check all your connections. They tend to corrode after 30 + years.

Sounds like the speedo cable to me. If so, eventually it will completely break, and the speedo will sit at 0. Might want to take the cable off, lube it up, and make sure it is tightened back on. Just tossing in my two cents. Good luck!

I totally agree with ya Bruce

$160 was your down payment. Then figure roughly $160 per month minimum. All jokes aside, good luck. Be patient. Have a sense of humor. If you smoke, quit. If you drink, drink more . Be sure to post pics.

Nice job Ron

Also, the 4x100 lug pattern is wrong. Sounds like those are for a FWD. You need 4x114.3 and 0 offset.

If the other site doesn't have them, these guys might: http://www.datsunrestore.com/datsun_stuff.html

Hey Tim, these guys list the hatch hinge seals on their website. Might see if they still carry them... http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/body.htm

Not sure if you are referring the the little hairpin clips that keep the lever on the back of the lock, or the bigger clip that keeps the lock in the door. You can get both at a junkyard, a Nissan dealer, or most good auto parts supply stores. The clips are nothing fancy or unique to the Z's.

Geoyam, I tried using a shim (washer), but in my case, it wasn't the cylinder that was worn, it was the little tab on the lever arm itself. I replaced the arm, and the lock works as new. Nice pics & details though.

First pic is of the lock assembly with the lever attached. Second pic is with the lever detached. The third pic is blurry, but in the center of the hole is a tab. That tab gets worn down to the point it won't catch on the locking cylinder when the key is turned. You probably just need another lever. BTW, the lock cylinders on the drivers & passenger door are identical. It is the lever that is different for each side.

I had the exact same problem with my '77 (the 77 & 78's have the same lock setup). There is no linkage or rods. Remove the lock. There is a "cam lobe" on the end of it, with a lever that is clipped on. With my lock, the "cam lobe" wore down on one side of that lever. It worked fine turning one way, to lock. It would not "catch" to unlock. You just need to replace that lever. I bought a used lock with a good lever for a couple bucks. That way you don't have to re-key a replacement lock. Hope that makes sense. I have an extra PASSENGER side lever that is on my bench. I can take a pic of it if you haven't taken your lock out yet.

Never seen a 260 with the early 240 style bumpers and the 280 grille. Not sure if they came that way.

Oh yeah. There are TON's of scammers out there. I would never click on a URL. If someone is serious about buying your car, they will call you (if you have a phone number listed), or at least ask you the RIGHT questions. The internet has useful purposes BUT it also is an open door to dishonest folks.

Won't be long before you make your own dent in that seat.

Wish I could come across buys like this.

I'd trade our rain for your snow.

PM sent

Hey Arne, I was looking at getting a set of those blue NGK wires on eBay. Do you want to sell yours?

My '77 & '78 had them on both side. Can't remember if my '76 did. I know my '74 260 did not. It really has no purpose other than the dress up the interior a bit, and hide any wires or the defroster tubes... sorta

Sounds like the "dog leg" trim. Those seem to break pretty easily.

those sure are purrrrrrrrrrdy.

1977 280Z HLS30 371558 prod date 1/77