Wade

No need to cut them beforehand, just run them and get them in position going over the SU's as normal, then once in position maybe give yourself some playing room and mark, cut sheeth, snip wire few inches down. I wouldnt cut anything before doing a trial run, sure would suck to come up short again.

They are a tad longer then the later consoled chokes, sorry I dont have exact measurements on hand. Series one center console the choke is attached a few inches farther back thus the increased length needed. You can get the later console length cables to work but as you already know its a tight fit. If you can not locate the correct length choke cable specific for the series 1 console your best bet is to find the 73 choke cable (the super long ones that went thru passenger firewall) and trim them back to fit.

I need to take all 4 back off and measure each again. Thing is I knew I had 2 dif offsets, but was under impression Id be ok as long as kept them paired front to back. Been so cold last few days no desire to mess with it, warming up tomorrow. Im not sure how to measure exact offset of each rim, Ill snap some pictures and post tomorrow.

Still plugging away and checking on things, thanks for all the advice. My rims are all mixed up so trying to get it evened out and balanced, I have the slotted mags but a couple of them are slightly different on the back spacing so the offset was not even, so I put the pair that matches up best on the rear and the other 2 rims that match up closely on the front. I guess I may just sell these off individually or something down the line, because not a single one of them matches another perfectly although they look alike. Now, the differential strap (arrestor strap?), is that supposed to be loose with the car jacked up or what type of tension should it have because its fairly loose and maybe thats throwing off my suspension. I remember replacing it, heck maybe I put one on thats too large.

I have not taken it to get aligned. Was under impression that the rear end was not adjustable and it pulls a straight line, steering is not an issue. Still looking around for a shop, kind of worried to just take it down to any old shop that will give me bogus "tales" of what needs to be done. Or dropping $80 on a alignment that is going to do nothing. The tires are these, Dean Stinger GTS 215/60R14 Tires for Sale Online - Vulcan Tire Sales. Cant even find them anymore, if remember correctly due to availability of profiles for the 14 inch tires it was either these or BFG's that were something like $180 a tire at the time so I went with these, as mentioned the car has been sitting for a few years but the tires are new, actually just had them mounted less then a year ago. So the tires are a cheaper brand, not sure if that could be causing my issues. One thing to add, I did set the rear end down off the jack a while back and didnt get the rear right spring into the perch snugly and was getting a horrendous knocking sound until I jacked it back up and got the spring in the perch correctly, but I didnt see any damage back there or anything, it was just shifting around I guess.

Ok, right on, Ill look around for a shop here in Denver to take it too.

Went thru it all today, couldnt find anything out of the ordinary, back end feels solid to me, wheels rotating fine and brakes all check out fine. I took it for some drives down some open roads and its constant. 1st thru 3rd feels fine, I maintain a straight line even when not holding the wheel, but anything over say 45 I can feel it pulling to the side whenever I shift or hit the throttle. It doesnt exactly feel as if it is pulling to any one side in particular, it just gets real sloppy like I am hitting a wake in a boat. If I am say at 55 mph and Im just coasting and press the clutch no change, soon as hit throttle it happens. The driveline flex, maybe thats what I need to focus on as mentioned, just cant see any issues with mounts or mechanics under the back end. Could wheels not balanced correctly be causing this, cause I did notice when had the tired mounted they used what appeared to be an awful lot of weights.

Brakes feel good, Ill go thru and double check them tho. I dont really notice it greatly when just pushing in the clutch, its mostly at highway speeds and tends to happen more when changing gears at higher speeds, as in once I hit the next gear. Literally feels like loosing control, I let off the pedal and regain my line .

Looking for ideas of what to check to get this figured out. The Z has been in garage for about the last 5 years, finally got it running and for the most part all is well except I dont like the way it feels when changing gears and highway driving. All the suspension is new, tokico struts/springs (although they were replaced 5 years ago), bushings, mounts, ect. Feels "squirrely" to me and I am getting some drift when changing gears, mostly above 3rd. Its on stock 14" mags with Stinger 215 60 r14's, which I have tried a few different psi's and now have them at 32.

Fuel pressure is steady 3psi. Checked pcv valve and all is well there. Think I got the stuck choke deal worked out, had to bend the arm that the nozzle connects too. When I had the domes off I turned the pump on to see if the fuel level was coming over the top of the nozzle tip and I didnt notice that happening. I reseated my needles to be flush with the lower ridge of the piston to give that a shot. Ive tried them on the upper ridge and also by just keeping them loose and setting the piston in and letting them adjust themselves (this way it was over the ridge about 2mm), in doing so I raised the knob for the nozzle to about 4 turns down. Was at 6 1/2 turns down before. Ill go back thru and resync the carbs and do that deal tomorrow and see what happens. I still smell the gas in the oil, hopefully its just leftover before the oil change and Ill change it again before running it much more. Just hoping the issue was simply the choke holding the nozzle all the way open, just wasnt even sure if that was the case if I should of been getting that much gas into the oil.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Electric-Fuel-Pump-Airtex_5773407-P_52_R%7CGRPFUE2AMS_____#fragment-1 Thats the pump I got on it. I need to run to the store and get some oil, will check the actual pressure Im getting once back.

Its an electric pump. Ive been fighting this back carb for a while now. It has new nozzles and needles, all feels well when dropping the piston and the choke action when I have the box off and such, just when I start using the actual choke it starts getting hung up. My float is kind of tweaked a tad also where the metal hinge hooks onto it, but cant find any replacement so kind of have to deal with it, not even sure that is my problem, whenever I hook up the clear tubing to test the fuel level it looks fine but perhaps at times it is indeed getting stuck in the wrong position.

Im fighting my back carb still, thought I had it fixed but I am still having the choke/nozzle getting stuck and not releasing back up. I have to manually reach down and push it up once warmed up. Due to this I believe I keep fouling out my plugs and keep getting gas into my oil. I start to get the gas odor and my valve cover breather starts smoking. I can smell the gas in the oil. I had this happen a while back and my oil was over a quart too high, so I drained it and put fresh oil in and cleaned up the plugs, then it happened again, did the same. Was fine for a few weeks and now I am having same issue. My question is, will the gas that is mixed into the oil work its way out on its own via evaporation or burning off if its not that much or do I need to change the oil again. If I understand it correctly, gas is not being burnt in cylinder and washing down the walls into the pan, would this even happen if my rings were in good order or do you think I have a ring problem? If rings were ok, shouldn't any excess gas in cylinder be blown out the exhaust? Thank you, trying to get a better understanding of this.

Can just tell that first 1 is rusted out bad, just from the few pictures up you can see it all up in the wheel wells, if its up in there that bad then its going to be all over. But for $550 its hard to go wrong with it, at the very least if the car does not pan out and you have plenty of usable parts on it you really will not lose any money on it. The 2nd one is hit or miss, 3500 could get you into a misery, or it could get you lined up on a workable car. Guess the question is how much do you know or want to put into it. I would shy away from the 2nd one due to the price, right off the bat I think 3500 is too much considering you will be putting more into it just to get it driveable. If I had your budget, Id lean towards the first one if I took a look at it and could see I could fix everything on it, that would give me $3000 budget for repairs, getting title in order, tires, whatever else needed. But if it is just rusted out to all hell Id pass on both and keep my eyes open.

Nasty crash, glad you are alright. Sounds like you were put into a situation I do not really think you could of got out of, if I understand the situation correctly a trailer came off a truck and left you with not many options. Might of been worse if you overreacted and or tried too hard to avoid the trailer, one of those things you will never really know but definitely could of been worse, far worse. You mentioned your ribs got bruised up, did you hit the steering wheel or was it just due to the seat belt? Curious as to what belts you had in the car and how you felt they performed. Your situation, and once again I am so sorry for your loss of the car and injuries, makes me rethink my choice in seat belts since I just have a lap belt at the moment and it would be wise of me to upgrade to something else.

Wow, makes me wonder what the reserve was at. I would imagine 16k for that car would be a nice sell, I mean it did have quite a bit of a things wrong with it. Is it just the 797 making it worth more or what?

Wet sanding the clear coat, all day. This was the first car I ever painted, I learned a lesson today, get the gun set properly or orange peel in the clear coat will take absolutely forever to smooth out. I still havent knocked it all the way smooth, been using 3m 1000 but its still slow, afraid to go any lower on the grit. Might just buff it as is and go with it, kind of afraid to go thru and cause damage. My hands start getting tired and progress was slow, I got out the electric DA and probably not the best idea but used it for wet sanding. My garage is tied into the gfci switch, but I think it still was not the greatest idea I ever had.

A Z was my first car I owned, back when I turned 16. I just always liked them since then, guess you can say I am still into them because it brings back the old memories. I get many questions from the older folks, they remember the cars but its been so many years that they have seen them on the road it brings back memories, its a good conversation piece cause mostly everybody has a memory to tell about these cars. But what I really enjoy, is when I see a young kid comes up to me and they actually know about these cars, cause that is rather rare nowadays. I just think its cool that the younger generation has an interest in these cars still.

He asked for an opinion, in no way was I trashing 280s, just giving my opinion on what I would think the value is and considering many people feel the same way as far as the value in the 280 vs 240. The original poster even stated he would rather have a 240. I suppose I could of just said "Oh man, that car is worth at least 5k the rust and bodywork just adds character to it", but then again that would not of been a true response considering he asked for opinions.

Guess you would need to find someone into the 280s, I would imagine many people are like you and feel if they are getting a Z they might as well get a 240, so it basically kills the 280 value for most, but there is plenty out there that like the 280s. Rust is always hard to figure into a price without giving it a good looking over, if I was to look at it I would see nothing but cha ching cha ching cha ching once a paint job was due. And when getting these old cars lets face it, nobody wants a rust bucket with bad paint, its kind of pointless to me to have a classic car that looks like hell. Its kind of hard to dish out good money for something you know you will just be turning around and dropping another 2k or way more just to get bodywork and paint done. Just by going off your ad and description I probably wouldnt even consider looking at it until the price was down to around $1500. Thats just me tho, may be someone in your area that sees a shining gem in your car and you just need to take your time with the sale.

You mention Advance, I assume you are referring to Advance Auto, and if so do not forget about the online discounts they offer. You can take a nice chunk off the price if you order online and pick up in store. $20 off of $50, $30 off of $75, ect. Just hit up a online discount code site for latest promotions.

Does anyone have any input as far as the air box only having the one breather hole going to the dome. As Bruce mentioned, some people drill out that second hole, curious if there is any benefit or harm associated with drilling out that second hole.

Ok, I am good now. Haynes book was a little confusing, looks like the smaller moon goes to the rear in the picture, but I did as you guys said and everything was fine. Was a little worried about the shaft, never done it before, but after I got done I just thought "hmm, that was rather easy". Hardest part was getting sway bar back on. Thanks fellas.

Yeah its like exactly one terminal over, so the notch on the cap is directly below the #4 plug wire. I am changing the oil pump tomorrow, if understand it correctly from posts on here I could just slide the shaft out, rotate it into position and slide it back up to get me in the proper position? Then rotate my wires back to being normal. Kind of think I should just do it, just never messed with an oil pump before, has me a little worried pulling the shaft out as I was just planning on vice gripping it up top, don't want to get myself into some kind of jam where I try to get it back into position and I mess more up than do good.

I am at tdc, and this is where my rotor is sitting. My finger is on wire 1. This is a D612-53 distributor. Am I correct that my distributor shaft is out of alignment? It runs like this, seems alright, but I do need to dial it all in and not sure if this is causing me some trouble in doing so. I picked up a turbo oil pump and was thinking I should put the shaft back into alignment correctly when doing the pump, but making sure this indeed does look out of whack. I never took the oil pump out of this L28, so I am just assuming previous owner set it up like this, or perhaps when I put this 240z distributor on it maybe that's just the way its supposed to line up. Also something has been bugging me about the timing advance plate and bolts, this distributor has 2 of them on the base. 1 is up top that maneuvers the gauge plate with degrees on it, and another bolt on the right side is adjustable also. Both when loosened can rotate the distributor. I am not really sure if I should have 1 locked down in a certain position and adjust with the other.