Wade

Oiluj, when you say cylindrical with straight knurls are you talking about the plastic black knob looking type? Im just trying to get an idea of when this style I got was used and figure if whether or not these ones I have were ever changed. 6/72 was the production date from the Z these carbs came from. This guy on ebay has the same style on his rebuild http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-SU-Hitachi-Carb-Intake-Assy-Rebuilt-Restored-Warranty-/290646370116?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43abdfa744 (I sure wish I had the funds to just buy it!) and from what I have heard the 72's nozzles and adjusters are no longer available so I was thinking these adjusters actually came from the earlier series Z's.

Ok I think I am making progress. Floats are just a hassle, fsm is saying 14-15 mm gap and the rebuild kit as well as other info I have found is saying 19mm. These 72's I guess are supposed to have a longer float valve in the front and a shorter in the back. Front carb is the one by radiator correct? I make sure, because apparently this set of SUs has the shorter valve in front, and the longer one in back, not sure whats up with that. Its hard to get it set accurately by measuring anyhow so I am resorting to using the clear tubing method and making a 23mm mark from the top of float bowl and doing a trial and error routine, I am currently on my 10th or so time of removing the front float cover and getting close!

Floats are not set correctly or I have float valve issues, front carb is just dumping gas. Its off and on, sometimes it does it sometimes it does not, but atm I can turn on the fuel pump and watch it jump dump. I drained the oil and had like 7 quarts in it and it was diluted down with gas. Once I drained that and filled back up with oil and new filter I no longer have the smoking issue, hopefully no harm done. I need to take the bowls back off and look around. I will drain and refill oil here again shortly to make sure its cleaned out.

Ok cool, this style of adjuster only has 5 slots and is not the knob style I usually see write ups about on adjusting, I take it it is the same concept just less fine tuning available. As in most info says turn knob in all the way clockwise and then turn it out so many turns. I should of just put this on the other thread I got going but just needed to confirm the carbs.

I was always under the assumption these were from a 72, but I am unsure if the previous owner changed them out or not. I cant really make out the stamping on the side it looks like it says HJG46 W-F3 but I am kind of guessing, especially on the W-F3 part. It has a clicky type adjuster on the bottom and not the turn style knob. 3 screw on top and the round throat.

Float bowls seem to be set now, not getting overflow, I did readjust the level due to I forgot that these carbs were from a72 and I guess the 72s used a 19mm clearance and not the 14mm clearance that the earlier SUs used. I set it using a 1/2 drill bit between float cover and float and it looks to be all good at 19mm now. Also, like I was curious about on the needles, I pulled them out a bit so the collar matched up with the outer base of the piston and not the actual locking base. Put clean plugs in and it started up and is running much smoother except I am now getting an absolute ton of white smoke out the back. Car sat so long I am getting worried about a rotted head gasket or maybe even the block cracked, I am in Colorado and it has sat thru a few winters. Ill keep looking into that.

Here is the manifold, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=471&attachmentid=49934, just have the pcv hose to block, the brake booster hose, and the vacuum advance hose to front carb. I may have set the needle too deep on the carb piston, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=471&attachmentid=49933. I was unsure of what is considered the "collar" because this piston has a groove down the center. Should the needle collar be matched up with the lower collar of the piston or should it be matched up with the higher collar. Basically I am thinking the needle should be up a few millimeters unless how it is now where the needle collar is flush with the lower collar is correct. Hope that makes sense. I need to figure out how you guys do the simple links also, always liked that about this forum.

Let me give you a run down first, 1971 that I put in a L28 about 5 years ago all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor/ect and it ran fine, but the car has never been driven since, just been garaged awaiting bodywork that never seemed to happen. I would start it every month or so and just let it idle and a few times I drained the gas and put a few gallons of fresh in. Progressively over the years it was running worse and worse each time, bad gas or whatever maybe floats stuck. So here I am now, ready to get it back running and its stumping me what else I can try. I took the carbs apart and cleaned them out and did rebuild kits on them. Drained gas and changed filters (did not look bad to me surprisingly, I had the tank cleaned before the car just sat). I double checked timing and it looks fine. I got spark at all plugs. Changed plugs. Plugs are getting wet tho. I can get it to start but it is shaking and stumbling bad, pulling each plug wire off individually I really do not get much of a difference. Carbs are pulling good suction, no other vacuum leaks. Basically everything seems to be fine but its not, and I am stumped on where to look now. Something with spark/ignition not burning the gas or too much fuel flooding out the plugs. This is a L28 with SUs, pertronix, electric pump. I am open to any ideas and will test whatever you feel I should, thanks. I go from one side to the other, nice motor and crap bodywork/paint for 5 years. Now I may have nice bodywork/paint and a crap motor for 5 years

Good deal, thanks for the info. I have literally been thinking for the last 6 years that I was missing something in that hole, no wonder I could not find any info when I searched for center console hazard light and such. I ordered http://www.ebay.com/itm/330645500063, looks like it will fit in that hole nicely so I may run my electric pump switch to it or perhaps even just leave it wired up with the wires hanging out by the radio area and ready so I can put the console back together in case I one day want to add fog lights like how you have yours. Thanks again.

For the early series, 2 part question here, but related. When I got this car years ago the defroster switch was in a box and both that hole and the hazard light hole was empty. The defroster I am actually not sure if it is the correct one, but I have the light socket and wiring there so it must be the lighted kind and not the other. If I understand the innards of it correctly it is just a metal plate that pivots back and forth and makes contact? As for wiring, I have 4 wires and it appears green and green/red go to one side and red goes to other with black going to the lamp socket. I am missing the hazard lights lamp or plastic piece that goes there next to the defroster switch. I have no idea of what it even looks like, and I do not have any other wiring to go to it nor does it look like the wiring from the defroster branches over to it. But not sure if someone cut the wires back from the defroster switch at one time or not.

Ok, thanks guys, seen the item on that site and the bumper looked darn close so thought I could fabricate the mounts using some spare 240z mounts I had. If this is not something you have heard of others doing then I take it that 260z bumper wont fit right even with fabricated mounts. Thanks again.

Ideally yes, but just happened to see that they still carry the 260z front bumper and not the 240z ones so I was considering my options and I wasn't really sure how different they were, mounting brackets needing to be reworked is not an issue as long as the bumper still wrapped around correctly. As in if the fitment was close I could live with it rather than spending big bucks for a 240z bumper which most likely looks like hell then paying again to straighten/re-chrome.

Trying to locate any pictures someone may have of this. In particular for using the Blackdragon 260z front bumper on a early 240z. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=20 From searching it appears that the brackets would need to be adjusted, just curious if the 260z bumper wraps around neatly or basically how they would look. I am just looking for a bare bumper without any the override bars or guards. I suppose I could go with the 260z rubber strips and just leave the guard holes there without the actual guards place.

Hooking a meter directly up to the sender and taking a reading from there. The sender works, but the needle in my gauge is broke. Like Mike said, if anyone knows that formula or something close to it to give me a general idea. Thanks.

Any advice to check oil pressure using a meter on the sender? What type of reading would I be looking for. My gauge is not working atm for whatever reason and I just started back up working on the Z after a few years, want to make sure my readings are ok. 71 240z gauge, but it has an L28 with existing pressure sender, I read that the readings will not match up with it being different settings. Ill look into that, just atm Im not getting any reading at gauge.