lbpdz

Greetings - When trimming down the rear transverse link bushings (sanding on a flat surface) does anyone have any particular recommendations on what grade(s) of sandpaper to use? I don't see how using the all thread method to spread apart the arm would actually work to get it back together without bending the arm too far out of compliance to get the spindle pin back in. Also, for anyone battling the clean up on the "Formula 5" poly grease, Tub o Towels cleans your hands right up, and cleans EVERYTHING off of the bushings and parts with no problems. Highly recommended. Thank you in advance. Regards, lbpdz

Hey guys - here is what I am looking for for my latest project(71). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. Left rear Tail light fuel pump rear valance better dash heater control face AM Radio seats distributor an coil All stainless for passenger door These are jost the starters :stupid:

I am reading what you have posted, and have you thought about rebuilding your current parts also as an option, or just want to move into the performance world. I have had excellent success hand honing the wheel cylinders (For some crazy reason I want to keep the drum brakes. In which ever way you go, start from the outside and work your way in (do my current rims have enough clearance to make this happen), followed by what parts will give me the results I am looking for. I tend to like to keep mine stock as possible, and will either build or farm out a job or two..

I am looking for a set for my 71, either the German or Factory seats (the car came with no seats). Where are you finding these deals? I would really like to find some as a set so my daughter can at least sit in her car.. Any info that can be passed along would be very much appreciated.

I do agree we should all support the site vendors.. HOWEVER if you are desperate to get one locally, call a VW shop that works on air cooled stuff, then call our vendors to have a spare one on hand. (I dropped one once, was not a good experience).

Thanks for "taking one for the team". I have 2 I was thinking of sending out - but now I think I will just live with the imperfections. It would be nice one day if our cars would see the thriving aftermarket of some of the other 70's era cars, but I don't think it is going to happen.

That is one of the many reasons to keep your cars fully insured, documented and appraised whenever possible. And take lots and lots of pictures.. Paying insurance sucks, but you need to keep in mind what you may get if you need to use it.

call your dispatch and let them make the call - it's likely more than just that. You stopped long enough to let oil settle into the pan. It will start up again..

If you parked it for quite a while - then yeah , your shoe got stuck to the drum. I wish I new why it's always on that side though. If you didn't leak any fluids, scuff the drum a little bit with some emery cloth and reinstall. Untill you get the settings correct for the drums, pedal may be a little off. Good Luck and let us know how it goes. Later this weekend I will be looking at the calipers to see if they are sticking and inspecting my front ball joints (with emphasis on the passenger side). The whole dang car is leaning.

looks like you are getting there. How bad is the corrosion in the light sockets and fuse block? I have been bit by the corrosion bug before that caused me all manners of these types of issues.

does it have the wonderful smell of 90 weight? Maybe it's runoff from a previous owners attempts to lube the cable. Will be interested to hear how this one shakes out..

looks like the "quick & easy" stuff has come to the end of the road - Sorry. Might want to pick up a FSM and work your way from the back to the front, triple checking everything. Also its a good excuse to upgrade to the braided steel hoses. Front's will never feel right until you get the rears dialed in. I get the adjusters on the drums close, then use the self adjusting mechanisim. Then bleed the fronts. Napa and I am sure another load of places will have new bleeders for you, if you have to really bugger yours up.. Take your time and remember to use NEW brake fluid that you have just opened that day. Good luck and let us know how it all works out. Gentle heat and/or vice grips might help in getting the old bleeders out. Does the "E-brake" hold at all?

I use an old input shaft.. also makes a nice drift/punch as they are hardened.

take off the pressure plate.. it will fall out might want to rethink the order though - if you are getting it rebuilt, you might want to do that after.. Oh, you will need the alignment tool to put it back on..

water based paint is already here =( Thanks for getting up all of the pictures and please keep us updated through the rest of the build..