lbpdz

Greetings - When trimming down the rear transverse link bushings (sanding on a flat surface) does anyone have any particular recommendations on what grade(s) of sandpaper to use? I don't see how using the all thread method to spread apart the arm would actually work to get it back together without bending the arm too far out of compliance to get the spindle pin back in. Also, for anyone battling the clean up on the "Formula 5" poly grease, Tub o Towels cleans your hands right up, and cleans EVERYTHING off of the bushings and parts with no problems. Highly recommended. Thank you in advance. Regards, lbpdz

Hey guys - here is what I am looking for for my latest project(71). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. Left rear Tail light fuel pump rear valance better dash heater control face AM Radio seats distributor an coil All stainless for passenger door These are jost the starters :stupid:

I am reading what you have posted, and have you thought about rebuilding your current parts also as an option, or just want to move into the performance world. I have had excellent success hand honing the wheel cylinders (For some crazy reason I want to keep the drum brakes. In which ever way you go, start from the outside and work your way in (do my current rims have enough clearance to make this happen), followed by what parts will give me the results I am looking for. I tend to like to keep mine stock as possible, and will either build or farm out a job or two..

I am looking for a set for my 71, either the German or Factory seats (the car came with no seats). Where are you finding these deals? I would really like to find some as a set so my daughter can at least sit in her car.. Any info that can be passed along would be very much appreciated.

I do agree we should all support the site vendors.. HOWEVER if you are desperate to get one locally, call a VW shop that works on air cooled stuff, then call our vendors to have a spare one on hand. (I dropped one once, was not a good experience).

Thanks for "taking one for the team". I have 2 I was thinking of sending out - but now I think I will just live with the imperfections. It would be nice one day if our cars would see the thriving aftermarket of some of the other 70's era cars, but I don't think it is going to happen.

That is one of the many reasons to keep your cars fully insured, documented and appraised whenever possible. And take lots and lots of pictures.. Paying insurance sucks, but you need to keep in mind what you may get if you need to use it.

call your dispatch and let them make the call - it's likely more than just that. You stopped long enough to let oil settle into the pan. It will start up again..

If you parked it for quite a while - then yeah , your shoe got stuck to the drum. I wish I new why it's always on that side though. If you didn't leak any fluids, scuff the drum a little bit with some emery cloth and reinstall. Untill you get the settings correct for the drums, pedal may be a little off. Good Luck and let us know how it goes. Later this weekend I will be looking at the calipers to see if they are sticking and inspecting my front ball joints (with emphasis on the passenger side). The whole dang car is leaning.

looks like you are getting there. How bad is the corrosion in the light sockets and fuse block? I have been bit by the corrosion bug before that caused me all manners of these types of issues.

does it have the wonderful smell of 90 weight? Maybe it's runoff from a previous owners attempts to lube the cable. Will be interested to hear how this one shakes out..

looks like the "quick & easy" stuff has come to the end of the road - Sorry. Might want to pick up a FSM and work your way from the back to the front, triple checking everything. Also its a good excuse to upgrade to the braided steel hoses. Front's will never feel right until you get the rears dialed in. I get the adjusters on the drums close, then use the self adjusting mechanisim. Then bleed the fronts. Napa and I am sure another load of places will have new bleeders for you, if you have to really bugger yours up.. Take your time and remember to use NEW brake fluid that you have just opened that day. Good luck and let us know how it all works out. Gentle heat and/or vice grips might help in getting the old bleeders out. Does the "E-brake" hold at all?

I use an old input shaft.. also makes a nice drift/punch as they are hardened.

take off the pressure plate.. it will fall out might want to rethink the order though - if you are getting it rebuilt, you might want to do that after.. Oh, you will need the alignment tool to put it back on..

water based paint is already here =( Thanks for getting up all of the pictures and please keep us updated through the rest of the build..

Looks spectacular. I can't wait for my 920 71 to get to that stage, and hope it looks half as good as yours. When the time comes, can I send you some cash and get you to ship me some paint? Your efforts in the matching paid off. Can't wait to see it back together. Definitely one of the best I have seen...

is the float on the sender all there? It's been too many years since I have had a sender/float out of a Z, but I had a similar problem with my truck a couple of years ago (69 Chevy). The float would take on fuel and constantly read a quarter tank. Bought a new float and it's been fine. Did your new sender come with a new float? when you tested it outside the car did you simulate the full range of motion for the arm, or possibly bend it putting it back in? Also check the sender with an ohm meter to make sure the signal is smooth. Good luck man.. If you were closer (Fullerton is about 4 hours from me) I would try to help..

Did not know where to put or say this, but felt I needed to say it. Having been a Zed owner for over half of my life, and being in the process of rebuilding another 71 after the several year break from the wrench turning side of the hobby, I am proud and amazed at the level of high quality information available. My 71 (okay it will be for my 16 year old daughter) will be a slow methodical build. She won't be able to drive it for quite a while, as she has seizures (it's always kind of a bummer when you are told at that age that you have to be free of seizures for 2 years before they will consider driving). The good side of this situation is that she will be learning her car inside out. If anyone in Northern Cal has any parts they would like to donate to the cause, please let us know (seats, console, dash panels, windshield glass.) She's gonna be a pretty 920Z when done and she will know every inch of the thing, down side again - will be a slow slow set to get her the way she (I) want it. already have access to a great paint booth, etc. Tough part will be the seats and misc interior rebuild and a couple of light panels. Now that the a55 kissing is out of the way - 90% of the questions I have had over the past several years have been answered here. Please keep bringing in the new/best information we can get as it does help several who never post. Our projects get complete from what we read here. Thanks again to the heavy hitters in the hobby that have kept us all going.. I am sure I will have many a question coming, but rest assured, I will be searching first.. Thanks Guys for all of your dedication and hard work for the forum. I hope top not waste too much of your time with stupid questions. Thanks guys for all your work and help

Great find - Diggin' those seats and door panels. The best part about an old 2 seater for your kid is he wont be hauling a bunch of his buddies around. Down side for him he wont be hauling a bunch of his buddies around.

I remember doing mine years ago, and I have never had the dash out. Remember getting my forearms all scratched up in the process. Good news is you only need 5 more pies to get a free one (somebody had to say it)

Z's are kind of like VW's in that everyone has a story involving them, or at least most of the people who were alive in the 70's-80's. I spotted another one yesterday in town (in a field next to a questionable body shop) 72 from the looks of it. That makes 9 240's in a town of 30,000 that I can easily find, of which one is rusted far enough to be a lost cause. The rest are pretty good.

Model airplane shops are your friend when sourcing the oddball tools for everything. For under a buck, you can get a graduated syringe - which will let you get your carb oil perfect matching volumes every time with no mess..

left front and right rear are locked? I am thinking you might have another problem, maybe crap in the lines? Have you cracked the bleeders to see if you have any fluid moving?

we are still fortunate to see a few here and there in California. Most of the people I have ran into with any S30 variant still see them as basic transportation =( Guess I care to much about them. In my little town I can count up 8 240'z, of which 4 are running, the other 4 yard art.

Drive train wise, in my opinion - they got all of the kinks worked out in 72, but 71 is my favorite year (differential moved a bit). They all rust at about the same rate. What is overall best though? The one you own and go through yourself. You know what is where and know how to take care of it. I had an 82 ZX which was quicker than any of my 240's have ever been, but not as much fun as my first 71. Drive a few of each generation and see which one fits you best.