Ron Carter

Bear, glad to see you have left the "Darkside" pardon the pun. Please ask questions! There are a lot of great members and we are all addicted to our Datsuns, some more than others. With the money you will save, not having to fix your "British car", you will be able to afford many, many Datsuns...it is a disease that few recover from. Look forward to seeing you on the road! Ron

In addition to the recomendations above, It's not a bad idea to have a qualified Datsun specialist inspect your car prior to your departure. Tell him that you have a long drive coming up and have them check for the obvious stuff... It's a little extra security and could save you a lot of grief.

Congrats, that is a beautiful car. Have fun and race safe!

Spoken like a true Texan.... :) I think this will drive the market to find an alternative technology HHO technology looks good at this point.... We will see.

We should all drive Ariel Atoms! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fpfv8FsNQo Ugly, well to some, powered by honda, well a little disapointing Faster than Sh*t for sure. Fun to drive...looks like it to me. Good gas mileage? who cares!

I saw your post regarding racing...and well, racing is about going as fast as possible around a track. That track limits how fast you can go due to many turns in the track to limit top speed. Otherwise we would all go drag racing. Going fast means different things to different people. What are you really looking to do? If you want to go 200MPH I would suggest an airplane.

installing a roll cage in a street car can be more dangerous than leaving the car stock. I know that sounds backwards but having steel tubes around you without a helmet on a street car is very dangerous if you are in an accident, and well, driving a caged car on the street with a helmet is not practical... I would look to a roll bar, and better seat along with 5 point seatbelts. this is a good compromise and should allow you to race under most situations.

I would contact Rob Fuller at Z car Garage. He is an RB specialist. He could tell you....IF the motor is in good shape and the body has no rust, I would say it is worth it....figure paint and body will run at least 4 to 6k for a professional job, then ask your self if you have a 10K car....

this is such a difficult question to answer....there is no clear pricing on a car like this so is it worth it to you?

I think Bill meant Camaro

Welcome to Classic Z cars. There are several of us out campaigning several datsuns and would be more than happy to share experiences we have had. Feel free to contact any of us.... We would like to help! As Mr. K would say Drive Fast! Ron

Oh and dont forget DP Racing.... www.Designproductsracing.com I really think you are missing the boat here. I think that YOU think that US market is only interested in restoration, but that can't be further from the truth...We have been racing Z's, 510's, and Datsun Roadsters for almost 40 years. The parts you ask about are available from several US suppliers! listed above are three of the best...I think you need to re-evaluate your comments above.

R & D, I believe that John is one of the foremost specialist for in the country for racing 240Z's. I dont think you would do better going with something from Japan... I think you need to rethink what you are looking to do. Ron

Great one John, but wouldnt you want to use 8? Seriously, there are a lot of us that have coilovers on our Z's and it is the correct way to do this. I would use the "Search" function on the website to see what people have done.... Then when you are completely confused call John Coffey at Beta and he will tell you how to do it the right way based on how you are going to use the car.

There is a photo of tripple SU's off a Volvo on a Z in an old copy of Z car magazine. They were not as nicely done as what Steve did.

To me this reads like a backhanded comment. You are clearly questioning the competency of Steve, and his business. I didn't like it, and didn't agree with it, and said so. Everyone on this list with a 240Z or 260Z are potential clients of Z Therapy. They could read your comment and get the wrong idea. Look, I appreciate that you question things, we all do. I think I would phrase it differently. Or better still, contact Steve at Z therapy and ask Steve directly, instead of posting the comment above. Clearly you did not know Steve's intentions or modivations and made assumptions based off what you saw and Carls comments. I am not mad, i just want to clear the air. A better statement is: I wonder if Steve knew of the disadvantages of the tripple SU setup based off of Carls comments above? This makes it a discussion, not a nasty comment.

Steve did it at a conversation piece and for fun. i think he had upwards of a couple hundred hours in the conversion. It was very well done to look like an original set up and it works well. Does it work better than the stock set up...well only Steve can answer that question. My understanding that higher RPM that it really goes well. I would not question or fault Steve for this project, he did this because he wanted to and he could make it work. And it does. He drove that car down from Oregon. Is he a SU guru absolutely...He is a Datsun Guru as well. 240ZX, i think you are being unfair to make such a comment. There are many people on this site that use is products and swear that they are the best you can buy. This is an unbiased opinion from me, because all my cars use Solex or Mikuni carbs. I know Steve and his wife Pam because we travel in the same circles. He knows his stuff....

I have run the Mikuni Manifold on my old street car and it always went like heck from idle all the way to redline. That being said, On my BRE Z I run the Nissan Comp / Interpart manifold on the race car which is a balance between the Mikuni and the Cannon and it works very well...no flat spots and good top RPM. The rule of thumb I always heard was Mikuni Manifold for the street. Cannon for Auto-X (better torque). Nissan comp for roadracing.